Lbox88

well shit, if all these retarded noobs that can't read the forum rules when they join would stop getting butthurt when their shit got shut down, I wouldn't have to use it at all.

You mean he needs this?

AWESOME IN B4 buh bye

The reflection off the lake next to my house makes it hard to watch my HD TV

^^ You can use a "slot" or regular screwdriver too, touch somewhere on the engine with it and put your ear to the handle. but yeah be careful man. I had to do this too with a bad pulley wheel, but I used a piece of 1" conduit to set on bolt heads to locate the source. BE CAREFUL AS HELL if you're goin to do it.

Need to add woofer disp., bracing disp., extra baffle, change to subs up, and 1 common port wall EDIT: and that stuff will end up changing tuning and such

that sounds fucking NAAAAAAASTY. The small bearings like to the lower left of the alt run about $15ish IIRC.

Hmmm, I thought you could charge any battery with the HF1215. Intrigued by the pep boys charger now tho. Gonna have to look that up.

Why not buy the normal 12v 15A intellicharger for $100 less?

If you are having 2 different voltages, even while the car is running, then you have an issue with wiring. -Take your dmm and measure from the + stud on the alt to anywhere on the engine block while the car is running. This will tell you where your alt is actually sitting. -Then measure from front battery + to -. If it doesn't match what you measured at the alt, then you have a big 3 wire that is loose or corroding. -Now test the back battery voltage. If this doesn't match the other 2, then you have a bad connection to the back. As much of a pain in the ass it is, take a wire brush and clean all the connections, from + connections to grounds. Make sure all paint is sanded off at every ground. And get a new voltmeter. Good luck

Done

Thar makes a lot of since my work network sucks balls and my home network is awesome.

Dude, you're in South Africa, you start bumpin' some bass and Hippos are gonna start humpin' your car and crush it.

a heavily clipped one will have flat spots at the peak of the signals. Light distortion will just make the signal look a little fuzzy.

If you don't have luck finding a pair, use either the remover or sand it off and then get the 3M lens restore kit. They run about $20 and can be found at many auto parts stores. All you'll need to use it is a drill that goes about 1200-1600 rpm. One kit should be able to sand, buff, and polish both lenses. EDIT: I would probably sand it off and then use as fine of grit as you can stand to get them nice and smooth before starting the lens restore kit. I used one of those kits on my old Malibu headlights because they were fading and really yellow and they looked pretty damn good afterwards.

Change it to somethin like "KissMyFatAssHackerz" and maybe they'll get a good enough laugh out of it to leave you alone.

<----fatty needs double the amount as jou guys.

I've plugged the tender in and left it on my kinetic for a couple of days, once its fully charged it floats at 13.2

I will never buy another Schumacher charger. Have bought 3 so far, 3 different models, and each one has tried to charge at 15.4V+. http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Plus-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU ^can be had at a lot of auto parts stores, so call around because the difference between having it now or waiting/paying for shipping might not be too different.

oh yeah, forgot this