Sheena

sunroof half way open.. or passenger window all the way down, air conditioner off.. only times i go full tilt. 61 degrees and up if its not raining. ofc no bumping at lights, school zones, etc etc.

go read the review.. maybe it will change your mind :x.. and i dont know anything about intels SRT.. but it seems ocz offered a pretty good package.. but you take a look and be the judge EDIT: the ocz cache drive does not use intels SRT.. so it can be used with any motherboard/processor/etc.. as long as its windows 7.. and it works with the trim command.. pretty boss mode.

would it be a better solution for the OP? 32gb cache at SSD level performance sounds right for him, doesnt need the max 64gb or anything. http://www.newegg.co...N82E16820227755 or something similar. http://www.guru3d.com/article/ocz-synapse-cache-ssd-review/1 is a review of it if your curious or havent seen one

yeah i made a mistake when i said locked i7. i caught the mistake after i posted and didnt wanna edit. but i did say same performance! reliability.. idk. i wouldnt use reliable and ssd in the same sentence really. theres bad reviews for all ssds, bad firmware, bad nand. i really believe intel and ocz both use micron nand (could be wrong, but i remember reading something about this a while back, just cant find it).. no idea what crucial uses, didnt bother to google it. i mean imo.. when someone says SSD, i think maintenance.. personally i dont mind fixing an error with my ssd if i have one.. but customers losing data, etc etc.. and yes i agree.. anything past the i5 2500 is just e peen. pretty much like saying.. "i have 64gb of ram.. but i play runescape." but to recap.. ssd and reliability has always been an issue.. whether its 32nm or 25nm. IMO he coulddddd... get a wd black 1tb and a ocz snyapse cache drive.. it actually works.

sigh maxim.. why do you gotta do this.. im not trying to argue.. but seriously? please be serious right now http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227706 vs http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167042 i mean the intel is just SO cute, its like a little kitten compared to the raging pissed dragon of the OCZ. costs more, performs worse.. i have no idea in what world you would have to live in to buy an intel ssd over an OCZ or crucial M4. as for the video card.. man.. again.. really? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127567 vs http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130587 quieter, cooler, faster, custom pcb, more features than a jumbo jet.. (not literally).. but COME ON.. your completely fine with him pissing money out the window.. then you tell him to get the locked version of the i7..? lol and handling 90+C like a champ is amazing... if you dont mind putting 200 degrees worth of heat out the back of your case! and yes, the card kill temp is like 95C.. ive never ever heard of any 5 series getting above 80C but who knows. i really hate going up against someone with computer knowledge.. but in the tech/computer world.. graphs/performance numbers dont lie. cheaper + made by a better brand + faster = ???

about a month.. now i need more skars >:] my fav time to drive around is when its 61 degrees outside. roll the passenger side window down (port loaaaaddddddddinggggggg) and roll full tilt as i cruise. hits much harder when its cold.. or when its 90 degrees. only two temps that i give demos in, 61 degrees or 90.

k well i got a few concerns.. firstly "Intel 510 SSD drive 120gb" and "Geforce 580 Supercharged 1.gb" the intel SSD chips arent as great as the vertex 3s. i would even suggest a crucial M4 over an intel any day. gotta know where a company puts its focus at. intel is on processors. ocz is on SSDs. crucials is all over the place it seems. also with any 4xx or 5xx nvidia video card, i STRONGLY suggest not using the reference cooler. i STRONGLY suggest going with a 3rd party brand such as MSI, gigabyte, or zotac. the reason why i suggest this is that the nvidia 4xx and 5xx series gets VERY hot, over 70C yes, thats right over 158 degrees. playing star wars you will probably only see 38-60C if you purchase a 3rd party video card. remember.. HEAT, is the death of all things electronic. if you want a long lasting computer, please keep this in mind: low heat = long computer life, lots of heat = short computer life. the ONLY 580 i would ever recommend to a customer would be this one.. MSI nvidia 580 gtx twin frozr III... thats twin frozr THREE 3.. if you cant find the twin frozr 3, then the next best is the twin frozr 2 TWO.

within the first 10 posts you are here you diss our family? you wont last.

not you silly the OP said hes going to run 1200 a piece.. i said proper electrical, sorry for the misconfusion

the two i ordered from SSA had really stiff suspensions actually, could obviously tell i was over driving them when i went full tilt the first week i got them.. and dont forget to make sure you have proper electrical

i have the same setup, and the skars dont even get warm off the hifonics.. i think the other guys that run these know a secret im sure they could take 1k each like a champ

i got two 16 gauges coming from each post, i had to flatten them both with a vice for them to fit side by side in my VVX 12s. no problems so far

sorry for the late reply. well it could mean a few things including a bad ground. could also mean the batt is bad i would do what the other guys are saying, check/redo the ground, sand EVERYTHING off until you hit straight metal and bolt it down

what i suggest doing tomorrow, or when you get the time is. taking your DMM (voltage meter) and hook it up to your amps pos and negative. play it at full tilt and watch the voltage.. if your voltage is going up and down like a low rider, you got your answer on what you need to do.. if the voltage is staying steady or above 9.6 volts (where the amp protects at) then it is an issue with: RCA deck (hu) amp wiring

different efficiencies? subs wired at diff ohm? bad amp? bad ground? miswired/wired wrong? honestly what i gather so far is... no voltage drop at lower volumes, then after 15 mins of full tilt it cuts out? if it cuts out after 15 mins of playing full tilt... you have voltage drop, or the amp is bad.

its coil or glue.. either way its time to turn it down when you smell that. i think if you reach back and put your hand on the cone and its not super hot that its just the glue, but if its pretty hot, then its coil. dont quote me though

fire some blanks pointing the gun down toward the ground. bet he never tries it again ever ever ever.. you'll have to clean your driveway off cause the kid shit his pants.. but a small price to pay imo.

oh unreliable no doubt lol. mine is fused at 25 amps and i tested to see if the fuse would blow in it and it indeed blew, its a chaos amp, so its a little old. but at least it pops fuses if you mess up

d-train-13k i still think my idea is the best to start at. boss clips hard but it doesnt put out enough watts to even make the coil smell. i seriously tried as hard as i could to mess up a jackhammer 12" with a boss amp rated at "800 watts at 2 ohm" played it for about 2-3 months and it didnt hurt the sub

ford escort is my first car. and i want to experiment first. 2 kicker comps in a prefab off a boss amp.. after about 6 months.. go from there

they.. sound good. sound nice. sound like sex. sound ____ insert colorful language here.

oh alright. im sorry then. continue on :]

presenting customers with options is shady? oh my. i didnt mean charge him without his knowledge, just present options and their price and if he says yes then you add it to the total. i thought i was pretty clear on this. $250 for labor, $2 for loom, $9.99 for amp on/off switch.. total is $261.99

$250 cash and materials up front and lay out "premium" options for every piece of equipment you install. ex: running power wire, offer him a loom for it if he asks. just charge him for all the extras.

honestly, me. dinner. but thats just cause im a nice guy. on a serious note, depends how long it takes you. if you spend 3-4 days on the box you can probably sell the box for $150 in labor, then a complete wire up for two amps probably about $100. if you do super quality work such as hiding the wires, carpeting, zip ties, wire looms, etc you can probably walk out of there with about $5-600