Sheena

i personally understood every word he said. basically the amp is fused, but hes telling you to fuse your positive run from your battery like any normal person would. he said it depending on the ohm load which would mean hes giving you the hint to use either ANL or AGU fuses. IMO he knows exactly what hes talking about in that situation.. dont really see how hes uneducated at all

at the beginning i was like.. its not slowed.. then bangg.....

I own and operate the BRZ1200.1 and i can safely say the knob is a gain knob.. play a tone at anything other than 45 and adjust the gain knob, if it gets louder than its a gain knob. bass boost on the BRZ series is 45hz so it would be really obvious if it was turned up and the gain was down

skar audio gettin down as usual! wonder what that thing would do with 1k per driver... damn thats a real nice setup though

yes sir there is, the latch can be moved forward and backwards about an inch, i move it all the way forward for the tightest seal but because of the vibrations it scoots back. i was thinking about lock washers or welding the piece to that setting. but i had to ask about Alpha Damp because its a vibration issue

so what would help? deaden the lid and put a sheet of MDF over the back, kinda like MarioBs new trunk? or am i just being stupid, i dont really know how this stuff works

i can get another pic if you want of whatever you need

yeah the second pic is looking down, where the trunk lid meets the latch. its the locking mechanism and the latch that are rattling horribly.

So i've done some brief reading about Alpha Damp and have read that its "mainly" for straight surfaces. My question is, could i use it on my trunk lid if i cut it into sections that fit into the holes? or do i need to do Damp Pro on the lid. Explanation of the issue: my trunk latch slams against the trunk lid locking mechanism and is quite noticeable from inside the vehicle and out. this is quite embarrassing. what i believe is happening is, the vibrations are moving the trunk latch forward some which loosens the trunks seal and makes the trunk lid connecting/locking mechanism slap against the latch.

maxxlink? or no

pretty much as soon as you hit full tilt, within a few seconds you have to turn it down/off if your amp doesnt go into protect first or die. batteries rest at 12.Xish.. so this is probably a bad idea

product before money? no. i believe your being sarcastic though about the whole "dont know about this one." pretty obvious scam. i would reply back... "lol."

sunroof half way open.. or passenger window all the way down, air conditioner off.. only times i go full tilt. 61 degrees and up if its not raining. ofc no bumping at lights, school zones, etc etc.

go read the review.. maybe it will change your mind :x.. and i dont know anything about intels SRT.. but it seems ocz offered a pretty good package.. but you take a look and be the judge EDIT: the ocz cache drive does not use intels SRT.. so it can be used with any motherboard/processor/etc.. as long as its windows 7.. and it works with the trim command.. pretty boss mode.

would it be a better solution for the OP? 32gb cache at SSD level performance sounds right for him, doesnt need the max 64gb or anything. http://www.newegg.co...N82E16820227755 or something similar. http://www.guru3d.com/article/ocz-synapse-cache-ssd-review/1 is a review of it if your curious or havent seen one

yeah i made a mistake when i said locked i7. i caught the mistake after i posted and didnt wanna edit. but i did say same performance! reliability.. idk. i wouldnt use reliable and ssd in the same sentence really. theres bad reviews for all ssds, bad firmware, bad nand. i really believe intel and ocz both use micron nand (could be wrong, but i remember reading something about this a while back, just cant find it).. no idea what crucial uses, didnt bother to google it. i mean imo.. when someone says SSD, i think maintenance.. personally i dont mind fixing an error with my ssd if i have one.. but customers losing data, etc etc.. and yes i agree.. anything past the i5 2500 is just e peen. pretty much like saying.. "i have 64gb of ram.. but i play runescape." but to recap.. ssd and reliability has always been an issue.. whether its 32nm or 25nm. IMO he coulddddd... get a wd black 1tb and a ocz snyapse cache drive.. it actually works.

sigh maxim.. why do you gotta do this.. im not trying to argue.. but seriously? please be serious right now http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227706 vs http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167042 i mean the intel is just SO cute, its like a little kitten compared to the raging pissed dragon of the OCZ. costs more, performs worse.. i have no idea in what world you would have to live in to buy an intel ssd over an OCZ or crucial M4. as for the video card.. man.. again.. really? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127567 vs http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130587 quieter, cooler, faster, custom pcb, more features than a jumbo jet.. (not literally).. but COME ON.. your completely fine with him pissing money out the window.. then you tell him to get the locked version of the i7..? lol and handling 90+C like a champ is amazing... if you dont mind putting 200 degrees worth of heat out the back of your case! and yes, the card kill temp is like 95C.. ive never ever heard of any 5 series getting above 80C but who knows. i really hate going up against someone with computer knowledge.. but in the tech/computer world.. graphs/performance numbers dont lie. cheaper + made by a better brand + faster = ???

about a month.. now i need more skars >:] my fav time to drive around is when its 61 degrees outside. roll the passenger side window down (port loaaaaddddddddinggggggg) and roll full tilt as i cruise. hits much harder when its cold.. or when its 90 degrees. only two temps that i give demos in, 61 degrees or 90.

k well i got a few concerns.. firstly "Intel 510 SSD drive 120gb" and "Geforce 580 Supercharged 1.gb" the intel SSD chips arent as great as the vertex 3s. i would even suggest a crucial M4 over an intel any day. gotta know where a company puts its focus at. intel is on processors. ocz is on SSDs. crucials is all over the place it seems. also with any 4xx or 5xx nvidia video card, i STRONGLY suggest not using the reference cooler. i STRONGLY suggest going with a 3rd party brand such as MSI, gigabyte, or zotac. the reason why i suggest this is that the nvidia 4xx and 5xx series gets VERY hot, over 70C yes, thats right over 158 degrees. playing star wars you will probably only see 38-60C if you purchase a 3rd party video card. remember.. HEAT, is the death of all things electronic. if you want a long lasting computer, please keep this in mind: low heat = long computer life, lots of heat = short computer life. the ONLY 580 i would ever recommend to a customer would be this one.. MSI nvidia 580 gtx twin frozr III... thats twin frozr THREE 3.. if you cant find the twin frozr 3, then the next best is the twin frozr 2 TWO.

within the first 10 posts you are here you diss our family? you wont last.

not you silly the OP said hes going to run 1200 a piece.. i said proper electrical, sorry for the misconfusion

the two i ordered from SSA had really stiff suspensions actually, could obviously tell i was over driving them when i went full tilt the first week i got them.. and dont forget to make sure you have proper electrical

i have the same setup, and the skars dont even get warm off the hifonics.. i think the other guys that run these know a secret im sure they could take 1k each like a champ

i got two 16 gauges coming from each post, i had to flatten them both with a vice for them to fit side by side in my VVX 12s. no problems so far

sorry for the late reply. well it could mean a few things including a bad ground. could also mean the batt is bad i would do what the other guys are saying, check/redo the ground, sand EVERYTHING off until you hit straight metal and bolt it down