Sheena

yes, usb is the better quality. if you run it through the aux, you have the possibility of adding clipping into your system. and ya your right about the ipod sending data instead of audio signal. the audio signal is processed by the HU

yes, the upgraded DD1 reads over 150 ac volts (which is what your amp outputs) so say if you have like a AQ 20 or whatever the 20k watt AQ amp is, you'd need the upgraded DD1 because the AQ 20 outputs more than 150V

upgraded DD1 just means it handles over 15 thousand watts (150V). i believe the upgraded one does 30kw (300V) pretty sure you dont need the upgraded one though.

upgraded dd1 as in, handling over 150v? pretty sure you have to private message someone somewhere about getting it, as i think you dont just get it from the website

still food for thought and possible solutions to future problems if they arise :]

its cause we love you, and we want you to get back on track with the wall. well thats my reason. imo you could try turning your radio to the off/standby position before turning the car off. because what COULD be happening is this: your car hits the accessory position, sending the signal for the HU to turn on, which pulls for the ipod connection which is interrupted by the car going from accessory to the start position, possibly disrupting the ipod send/receive connection, misinforming the HU that the ipod is ready when in fact it isnt ready to send signal. food for thought?

USB sometimes has an error fully connecting with some ipods, in your case since you unplug it and plug it back in, and everything is fine.. the solution is quite simple. ipod/ipod cord. now if you experience this while listening to the radio, or a CD.. then its time to troubleshoot.

IMO too early to tell.. i know ive had TONS of issues with my itouch 2nd gen and reconnecting/failing to reconnect until i restarted my car in a very specific order.. (resetting itouch, turning car off, plugging in, turning car on) i would say the ipod.. change out the cord and see if it persists. (cords fail quite often) you have pretty much a brand new head unit from what i can remember.

head unit or RCAs really.

where did anyone get 3 15s vs 3 18s from? title = 4 15s first sentence = 4 15s....... 4 15s vs 3 18s........ 4 15s imo. better coil configs, more motor force.. etc etc

Just wanted to come in here and say that Kevin has worked with me step by step in MAKING SURE that i stay with his products. any question i had he replied back to with a helpful answer, and QUICKLY. offered me a great and i mean GREAT deal on my SK-1500.1 shipped FAST and very safe. not a dent on the box at all.

Since this is the information thread, i have two questions, which i find to be important. 1. what do you fuse the SK-1500 with? a 150, or 200? (there is no information that i could find anywhere with the answer) 2. is the "bass knob" a bass boost knob? or a level/gain knob?

the kenwood hu doesnt clip with the sub level at +9 jason even with the deck maxed out, the sub channel still isnt clipping from 0-9. if you dont understand then this: basically hes at full tilt and isnt clipping with his sub at 0. he is still at full tilt and isnt clipping with his sub at 9. shit not loud at 0 shit loud at 9

Uhh, not going down in quality. What he said means that NOW the sub puts out a clean signal(close to 4V) at 9 instead of like before of having to go up to 15. so basically what i meant by technically is that. before there was no way you could introduce clipping into the system by putting it at +15. now if you put it at +15 you will clip. a head unit without clipping at max > a head unit with clipping at max.. before.. no clipping now.. clipping.. introducing the option to clip is a lower quality. thats like saying boss is great because it doesnt clip at low volumes.. (i guess? idk, i made my point anyways) i run a kenwood deck anyways so w/e

anything above +9 on the subwoofer channel clips he is saying. 9 is safe, 11-12 or w/e isnt 15 isnt.. pretty much hes saying they're going down in quality. (technically)

when i bought my VVX-12s it was sort of like this, just give it about a week and the suspension will be ready to rock.. idk about the noise though...

i asked this question, and this is what i got. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/130258-sealed-batt-bad/page__fromsearch__1

http://www.dcsoundlab.com/5k.html

2.8 cu ft for 2 15s? you play music on that? or only tones

not sure for how long.. i think you want them to float at like 12.7 or 13.x.. not entirely sure so dont quote me.. but i know you need to charge the batts before you install them.

you have to initially charge it is what we're saying.. you just bought it, its been sitting on a shelf.. charge it........... then use it........... not that hard of a concept

subs up port back sitting the width of the port away from the back gate. 3" wide port, 3" away from the gate.

how about park your car, hook it up to a CHARGER like he is suggesting? you are SUPPOSED TO charge your batts from xs power before you run them. charging does not mean turn your car and and let your alt charge it.. it means hook it up to a slow trickle charger. please listen to what these guys are telling you to do!

this card didnt get a very good binned gpu.. only overclocks 100mhz on the core and 50mhz on the memory. has no loop holes what so ever.. my 470 goes from 656 to 850 on the core lol and its stable all day.. i had to flash the bios to allow more core voltage though, but its got a beast binned gpu on it. prob would need the actual 6970s to compete with 580s. (thats just my opinion) really depends on how the program was coded.. certain games favor certain gpus as you know

ill get mine up with your settings.. what video card are you actually running? Nvidia 560TI 448 cores. 850/1700/2000