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civichatch

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Everything posted by civichatch

  1. Looking alot better. But MDF would have been bettter. And of course MORE POWER..
  2. That may be true. But liek his question says. Best Head Unit for the $$$$. And if hes not planning on spending big bucks the JVC is a great buy. And if uve ever driven on British Columbia roads you would know how ruff the ride is. Pot holes EVERYWER. And my deck has not skipped once.
  3. I personnaly run just a 140$ JVC. Nothing special. But ive heard Alpine makes great head units. I love my JVC though impossible to make it skip.
  4. if i were you ide jsut stop the build right now. Wait to get some good MDF.
  5. Ya i think thats why my cheap 15 blurrs vision. It sounsd best at High freq. But can still hit the lows dam good.
  6. your correct. I heard about them making smaller jackhammers. They look like promising subs.
  7. Ya i was wondering about that why cant you jsut ground the kinetik to a metal surface. I always wondered why people would run so many negatives?
  8. I completely agree. The p1 is just a begginner sub. Thats why i bought one lol. Cause im a begginner. I wouldnt say there complete garbage though. The sony exploders are ALOT WORSE.
  9. I get LOTS OF VISION blurr during a bassline. Its almost impossible to read any small signs. And it makes ur nose tingle really bad. I have a TV in my garage and if im listening to some bass and try watching it, its the tripiest thing. The hole Tv moves side to side about 6 inches and everything is super wavy lol. I wish i camera could pick that up its insane. So mazda i understand exactly what your saying.
  10. ya im going to attempt my first box build for a freind on monday. If his turns out good i will make a new box for mine and put in anotha p1 until i got the money for a T1.
  11. lol o i no they rip people off majorly. But at the time i just wanted some bass at a resonible price and a 15 inch sub in a box for 99$ seemed like a good deal to me. And its still pounding very hard 6 months later. And thats feeding it 350 watts rms wen its recommended RMS is 200.
  12. ya they should sell boxes. All the futuershops and best buys here do. And i think im leaning towards the T1.
  13. lol if it blows then it gives me an excuse to get a better one. And i wouldnt be loosing anything since it was free. I just look at it as 6 months of free bass lol. Gives me some time to save up for a type R 15 or T1 15.
  14. after doing the BIG 3. I noticed a difference. I wouldnt say it was a huge difference but in the end i still know its helping the electrical. I just used some left over 4 gauge power wire. And 4 12's in that trunk would kick ASSS. Im thinking of just buying anotha p1 15 and wiring them to 2 ohms. Instead of upgrading to 1 new 15. I think 2 p1 15's would still be louder then 1 T1 15.
  15. x4 But somtimes best buys fuckups can work to your benefit. Like me getting a free sub from them hahaha.
  16. bigger wire is always better. If your looking to upgrade your system down the road you might as well upgrade the components around it now. Go 1/0 gauge. But if your only planning on having 1500 watts MAX. then just got 4 gauge. That should be adiqute. Somone correct me if im wrong though. By the way how do u like ur p1's. I lovvvee mine.
  17. my dad had the exact CAI you do. From chromeintakes off of ebay. Was like 79$.
  18. O YA they do. It was the first vehicle i learned how to drive. Before i had my car. I loved that truck had the Leer tonou. was gorgous. Only 40 000 kms on it. Flowmaster exhaust . K&N cold air intake. Sounded MEAN.
  19. k thanks my specs are in my signature if that helps. I guess i will have to take a drive down to the audio store and find out.
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