727Designs

2-3K are you kidding me? Are you talking about a full set of leathers and boots? That's totally unnecessary got daily driving. I'm not saying shorts and flip flops are an option either, but let's not go crazy You won't see me leave the house without leathers, boots, gloves, and of course helmet. On just a short run to the store (~2 miles) I'm in a Tourmaster Intake Air II jacket, Icon overpants, my boots, gloves, and helmet. KBC actually makes some good quality helmets for the money, I've sold several when I worked at the bike shop and no one had any complaints. If you're wanting a new helmet the new Icon Alliance helmets are awesome for the money, also the HJC CL16's... I doubt you're wanting to drop the $$ for a Shoei, Arai, or Suomy. I wear an Icon Airframe Carbon Lifeform and LOVE it, but it's still pretty pricey. I suggest buying a good quality helmet, but saving the exta money over a Shoei or Arai and using it to buy a good jacket, overpants, and gloves. Your skin will thank you. I can't stress enough also good boots. Atleast over the ankle, I've seen many people get some nasty foot/ankle injury due to tennis shoes coming off in a wreck.

Looks good, just wondering why did you go with that style bracing as opposed to just using some 1 1/4" dowels or something of the sorts? They take up very little airspace work very well.

Judging by the other videos it looks like he has 2 AQ HDC2 18's off an RD D9.

Back in the day alot of them didn't have full sizes written out on the tire, they just used 8.75R16.5 or something of the sorts. You have a 16.5" wheel, you'll have to search online for a cross reference of that exact size though. Shouldn't be hard to find.

Lol I've fixed soooo many locals setups because of this. Ray FTW

You're only giving us 5 cubes gross to work with.

You should be fine then.

Per sub or between the pair? If that is per sub you may want to go with a slightly smaller box.

I actually ran a CVX 10" in 2.25ish ft^3 at 38hz after playing around with it in BBP6 for a while. It performed REALLY well with about 600 watts RMS. Got loud, low F3, and seemed to love the larger box. You should be fine, just don't go crazy with power.

Ouch Yeah man, a good friend of mine who is just getting into car audio had me build him a box for an old school PPI 10" he picked up, when I first built it he was using a 20 year old Kenwood 200 watt amp and it sounded alright... Well he got to wanting more, so I made him a few suggestions on amps, well when time came to buy I was on vacation and he went to a local shop and they convinced him it was an awesome amp that would easily do rated power, blah blah blah. Charged him like $140 for it... He got it laid to him without vaseline on that deal. He can't even sell it for 1/4 what he payed and it's still nearly new and with the box.

I clamped one of the Boss Chaos 1250watt mono blocks last week... 295 watts.

I've done my fair share of stupid shit on a bike... but fuck that! I've lane split a few times, but honestly even at 70-80 mph I don't like trusting other people to stay in their lane, and not move over into me. He's relying too much on the assumption that everyone knows he's there for my likings.

I personally always ran OBD1 on my swapped Honda's, just a personal preference I guess. As for VTEC if your having problems you can always run it off an RPM activated switch and make it engage whenever you want. 4,400-4,600 is where I usually had mine set in the tune.

Never heard a JL amp myself, so I cannot comment on the clarity. But I know I'm happy with my amplifiers that give me twice the power for half the price, and sound damn good doing it. Remember, a JL rep is still a salesman. He will tell you whatever you want to hear to get your money... From my experience all of my JL equipment sounded REALLY good... That being said, there are subs/amps/speakers that sound as good, if not better for less $$$ out there. He's exactly right, that JL rep is telling you anything he can to get you to buy his product.

I'm highly doubting it does much over rated. I had an old 500/1 and it did rated, and good clean power... No complaints at all, but I'm doubting that the v2 does more than twice rated.

Where in NC? There is a decent scene, not huge, but it's getting big again. In the early 2000's it was HUGE and everybody was bumping, now we are working on it again.

80-100. not negative 100.

Intake and exhaust are always your best bang for the buck for performance and improved mileage although it probably won't be a massive gain by any means. After that tuner would be my next step if there is one available. I'd say work on some weight reduction, but since your on a car audio forum you'll likely be adding weight so that's out of the question. Getting rid of the heavy steel stock wheels on my Titan for some aluminum wheels helped a good chunk as well.

First thing... Do you have Bass Boost off? Put x-over at 80-100hz and put your SSF to 3-5hz below final box tuning.

If you're tuning by ear I recommend turning it to where you think it's right, then backing it off some. Better safe than sorry if you aren't sure. An oscope is what shows clipping, a DMM just shows volts, amps, ohms, etc. Also your new subs are slightly beefier than your old ones, and will have a little more displacement which would raise tuning ever so slightly, not much but some. How do you have your LPF and SSF set on the amp?

I'm guessing it's going to be more of a full install with a time limit. I'm guessing he will give a certain amount of time to do the best sounding, cleanest install possible. Almost like the TV show "Car Warriors" just more like "Bass Warriors" Lol

By wiring your amp the way you have it now, you are still at a 1 ohm load... the channels are paralleled internally if I'm not mistaken. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on that. I would almost say something failed on the sub if the other one is still working fine. Like said earlier maybe a spider came loose or something. How was your SSF set when it bottomed so hard? It should be 3-5hz below your final box tuning.

Jesus, that's the first time I've seen a video of it being used... it takes that long to get my scope out of the case, setup, and ready to go and you did the mids/highs amp and the sub amp. Not to mention the ease of use, watching a light beats watching waves any day. Absolutely awesome product, I HAVE to get one.

I have a Makita (in fact almost all of my box building tools are) and I LOVE it. It's probably 10 years old now, works like a new one still. Just be sure to use a straight edge no matter what you use. But I have to recommend a table saw, makes life alot easier to me.