6berry

I have a pioneer Avic D2 Headunit for sale or trade. Not in the best condition but still works. The screen only has one little smudge on it that won't come off, it needs the nav disc to operate, the cap for the selector in the bottom left is missing but you can still use it without, and the motor that slides the screen down feels disengaged because you can hear the motor spin but it doesn't move the screen. The screen can be moved by hand though. It comes with the wiring harness. $175 obo. Maybe trade for some 1/0 wire, amp, etc

to fix all those defects you need to bondo in all the screw and crevices and sand it down then paint it. personally i dont think it would look that bad without that being done unless your edges dont line up very well

i dont know about an sa-12 in a sealed box but ^3 means cubed. like ft^3 is cubic feet. f3 is the point on a frequency curve of -3db. you would probably lose a lot by going sealed instead of ported

dc level 2 and level 3 15's recommend 2 cubes for a sealed box

that sucks but congrats i guess!

any of those amps mentioned above or a sundown saz2000d. another thing that im surprised nobody mentioned is why a sealed box? if you have the space i would go with a ported box

alright thanks man and do you think i need a bigger battry up front? or one in the back? You might, I'd do the big 3 first tho and then see if you still have a lot of voltage drop first. just to make sure thats. 1.get bigger wires 2. ho alternator 3. and? your big three is just upgrading the wires. 1. alternator to battery 2. engine to chassis or battery 3. battery to chassis

i dont know for sure but it seems like you would be better off goin with 2 sealed. with a 1:3 ratio it will be very peaky and also i would tune it a little higher than 40 Hz

you can test it using a clamp meter but it really isnt necessary for a daily setup

check out steves towers. he used smd's with 2 passive radiators per sub

so is this for all the new baskets or just the xl?

well maybe ill go with that since m6 is my initials

i forget whether the stiffer or looser suspension lowers the resonant frequency but to do hair tricks you want to be playing low with low tuning and lots of port area

alright thanks. i looked at those at first and figured they would be too big

I was planning on getting some EZ Lok threaded inserts for my subs and removable port but i wasn't sure what size bolt will fit in the screw holes. the ones i was thinking were the 10-24 threaded inserts, or the metric m6-1.0 or m8-1.25? or does anyone know of anything that works any better? this is what the ez loks look like

how long until you get the other twelve? you could just build a box for 2 twelves and cover the hole if its a common chamber or leave it open if you make separate chambers.

ive always wondered if they actually ate the stuff they make or if its fake. some of that stuff seems pretty nasty like the four loko chili.

thats crazy. you might break the window regulator with all that flex

just measure the outer diameter of the sub and the width of the gasket then subtract 2x the gasket from the overall

i checked str8 drop in audacity and it drops to about 25 Hz

grand am isnt the car of choice here but everyone bumping some sony explods in a prefab thinking theyre loud.

I'll need some of that wire once you decide to split it up

45 Hz is pretty high tuning but i dont know what sounds best or gets loudest in a minivan. look up exocontralto on youtube and he could give you some goo info on getting a minivan loud. he had one setup that was sub up port to the drivers side that got loud. but id say just talk to him for good info

upload the pics onto photobucket or tinypic then put the image url in between these [/img]

i know whats wrong! they spaced the U and the I too far apart! DC AUIO FTW!