252chevyboyz

Snafu has big 3 upgrade kits meant for Tahoes I do believe if I can find a link ill post it up. For my '97 Tahoe I. Got away with 10ft of 1/0 for my big 3 and really could have gotten away with 7-8ft I believe **edit** Here are the big 3 kits from Snafu http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143243-big-3-kits-for-side-post-battery-installations-finished-prototype-kit-with-pics/page__fromsearch__1 -James

Need to move this guys. Sounds great on 2 12's as daily driver. 100 + shipping or $130 shipped -James Horton

Looking good man. Great work -James

Autotek SM2-1200, 17ft Q Power RCA's, High/Low Impeadance Converter, and Bed Lined Cooling Stand $150 shipped. I also got it in the F/S section. I'll post a link to that below. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/144132-fs-autotek-sm2-1200-few-extras-price-drop/page__fromsearch__1 -James

Bump

1. Products: Autotek SM2-1200 Bed Lined Cooling stand w/ 20 cfm fan Q Power High/Low Impendence Converter 17ft Q Power RCA's 2. Specs: 300w x 2chan @ 4ohms 600w x 2chan @ 2ohms 1200w x 1chan @ 4ohms (bridged) A/B Class Amp Topography Pro-FiTM MOSFET Outputs ASPS (Auto Step Power Supply) Road Worthy TCID (Twin-Coil Isolation Design) Fully Adjustable Pro-Design Crossovers 12 dB Hi-Pass Crossover 24dB Low-Pass Crossover Bass Thrust: Variable Bass Equalization RCA Line Outputs: Permit Amplifier Daisy-Chaining 3. Description/Condition Mechanical: 10/10 Cosmetic: 9/10 A few scratches on the mounting feet and the Autotek logo wont light up but I haven't taken the back off the amp to fix since I was planning on selling it and didn't want to void the warranty. 4. Price: For all: $175 now dropped to $100 + shipping or $130 Shipped Also may be able to knock off a little bit if you don't want the cooling stand. 5. Contact Options: Email: [email protected] Text: 252-908-4411 Or just shoot me a PM I have had it for about 8 months now and the only reason I'm looking to sell it is because I am need the money to help out with the rest of my electrical upgrades and I am saving for something that is at least 2k rms. Sounds great on my daily driver with 2 12's but I just want to finish my electrical and upgrade the amp so I can start saving up for new subs. My first time selling here on SMD but I have been selling paracord items on ebay for several months Thanks for reading, -James Horton

Hey whats up man. I do have a place you can check out thanks to @durranic. I will post a link to the thread below I got it out of. It is thread I created because I am trying to get info on how what materials I need to do a good job. I hope this can help you out. -James http://www.yourautotrim.com/suhefba.html http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/117301-headliner-ideas-anything-is-welcome/page__fromsearch__1

I got an Autotek SM2-1200 (1200w x 1 chan @ 4ohms bridged). Sitting on a bedlined cooling stand with 45cfm fan, original packaging, 17ft Q-Power RCA's, Q-Power High/Low impeadence converter, and all the original paper work. I was trying to sell this for $165 and ill split shipping. Haven't posted it in the F/S section yet but I've just been trying to find a buyer locally for about a week now. Just looking to sell to help fund upgrading my electrical and I want to upgrade my amp also. PM me if interested. I got pics of everything for sale I can send you. -James

A Mod can probably can probably come along and just move the thread for you. Its all good man. Got some quality equipment and the electrical to back it up so I'm def I'm tuend in to see how everything goes when you get that build started. Post up a link to the other thread if you started another one. Did you snag any pics of your set up? -James

Well before I headed off to work this morning I got everything wired to 1200w x 1chan @ 4ohms. Well it turned out to be 3.7ohms at the speakers and the amp. After work I may take my subs out and try and get some actual wiring pics but I grabbed a few pics right before I left this morning. I can't really tell much difference by ear actually sounds just as loud which is good imo. Wired it just like the diagram above. Seems just as harsh on my electrical though. Isn't a higher Ohm load suppose to be a tad easier on the electrical system than a lower Ohm load? Thanks for reading, -James

I appreciate the reply there kranny. This was going to be my wiring project for tomorrow and I wanted to make sure I knew what I was doing. I will go off that diagram tomorrow and wire them accordingly then bridge it at the amp. I wish I would have wired it like this first so I wouldn't have had to put two terminals on my box. I could have gone with the clean look and installed only one haha. Thanks again man.

Do you think I would be able to tell any difference by ear going from "600w x 2chan @ 2ohms" to 1200w x 1chan @ 4ohms bridged"? I will be getting my system metered at my local shop soon and wondering how I can get the most out of this small system. Thanks, -James

Would this wiring diagram be correct for 4ohms bridged on 1 channel? with my box having 2 power terminals on the back would I just run both subs to 1 terminal and then run one power wire to my amp and bridge it on the amp? Just making sure I know what I'm doing before I start changing up any wiring. -James

Kinda bringing back an old thread but figured it would be better than starting a new one. The question I have is how would y'all recommend me wiring these 2 Q Powers so I can run a 4ohm mono bridged load on my SM2-1200? It says I can achieve 1200w by wiring the amp to Mono Bridged @ 4ohms. I have it running 2ohm on 2 channels and it says 600w x 2chan @ 2ohms. I want to run the amp 1200w x 1chan @ 4ohms on a bridged load. My box has two speaker terminals one for each sub. Should I wire the subs to 1 terminal or keep each sub on its on terminals? I got 2 speaker wires running to my amp with a 2ohm load on each. I'm just wondering how to achieve a 4ohm bridged load on this amp? Let me know if I can upload any more pictures to help out. Thanks for reading and any help is much appreciated, -James

Wow man great job on taht build. I love the classics and you made that look good -James

Thank you for posting up the comparison. Answered quite a few of the questions I had floating around in my head. Also I was so glad to see you included the Flex-A-Prene Welding Wire. I used that for my Big 3 and always kinda wondered what the specs were and how it compared to regular audio wire. I will prolly end up using the welding wire for my whole build. I got the Flex-A-Prene welding wire for my Big 3 on my Tahoe and I must say I'm really satisfied. Pretty decent flexibilty and a steady idle charge of 14.4-14.5 and at full tilt doesn't dip below 13.3 as before my Big 3 it was dipping alll the way to 12.4 Thanks man, -James

I'm in the same process as you. I'm also upgrading my electrical before I do any more upgrades to the system. Just did my Big 3 on 1/0 and that helped out a little. I dont drop below 13.2V now as I was droping to 12.4v before. I'm aiming to stay above 14v between 14-14.8v. Great job on the build so far though man. -James

I'm liking the Skar equipment more and more each day. Sounds good and the subs sounds clean. You planning on putting some mids/highs or super tweets in? -James

Kicker does make some quality amps but are kinda pricey. As far as Massive Audio amps the N2 Mono Block does 400rms @ 2ohm and if you ever get 1ohm stable subs it does 800rms @ 1ohm. I will post a link to the N2 below. http://www.massiveaudio.com/store/product.php?productid=16223&cat=251&page=1 -James

Ray does have some good deals there man

I have heard that also but I havent ever confirmed it though. How many cubes is your box? Also is you use the bass boost go for about +2db and under then on the low pass filter i would go 60-80hz and on the subsonic filter maybe about 30hz then on your gains I would start about 1/3 way up and listen for any distortion and if you dont have any just keep moving it up a hair at a time until you can hear a little distortion by ear and then back the gains off just a hair. I could pretty easily pick up the distortion in my system by ear. Also the 2 40A fuses on the PA amp would only allow for 80A or 800w total power right? I have always been a little confused on how the fuses on the amp actually effect the power output but that was just a thought -James

Well I found some amps over at Sonicelectronix that are 400rms @ 2ohms and i'll post a link to each amp below. Let me know which ones appeal to you and your budget man and we can try to go on from there. Hope this can help out -James http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33006_MB-Quart-FX1.400.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39675_Cerwin-Vega-STEALTH500.1.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18885_Orion-Cobalt-CO8001-CO800.1.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38400_Cadence-XAH300.1-Orange.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22381_Pioneer-GM-D7500M.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31878_Kicker-ZX400.1-11ZX400.1.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22584_Rockford-Fosgate-P400-1.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19556_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P500-1BD.html

Not a problem at all man. Glad I could be of some assistance. Anyway the PA BAMF 2k I believe is 1200w @ 1ohm x 1chan. You may be loosing a tad bit of power going to the Massive but for well under a 100 bucks that aint a bad deal. My local shop carries this line of Massive amps and the N2 is $189. I hate to say it's worth it when I'm not totally sure you'll love it but its not a bad deal i can say that. Nice choice on the DD subs though man -James **edit** Here is some info I found on the PA amp and it was indeed running 1200W @ 1ohm http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2012/amps-bamf-2000-1d.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14639_Power-Acoustik-BAMF-2000-1D-BAMF2000-1D.html

Whats going on man? I figured I might be able to offer my $.02 haha. I also just want to say great job on the Accent so far. I was going through your build log and it really looks good man. What is your budget for this amp if you don't mind me asking? That will help narrow down a couple of choices. -James

The peak power on it is indeed 1600W but the RMS wattage @ 1ohm is only 800w and the RMS @ 2ohms is 400W. I like that is is 1ohm stable though. I will post a link to some info on it below. It has overheating and low voltage protection which is a plus. Never heard one in person before but for maybe a 1 sub set up it would sound pretty good if you could find a sub to run at 1ohm that is in your price range. If your gonna be spending close to $160-170 on it I would look at he Hifonics HFi1500d at sonicelectronix.com. Hopefully from some of this info you can decide if that particular is right for you and worth the money. http://www.massiveaudio.com/store/product.php?productid=16223&cat=281&page=1 -James