Miguels

i want to get me one too

my brother is selling one that he got in october so im guessing its a 2011, he wants $800 including the RE xtx5000.1 amp

thats not a horn box

why not buy 2 FI SSD12 it will only cost you a bit more of the 4 12 and can fit in with a 5 cubes and ported box Edit: what i came to learn in car audio is not to go with a budget since you will always spend more that way, we all say we only want to spend $140 for a sub then after a while its not enough so you go buy another one at $200, why not buy the $200 sub and save the $140, if you dont have the cash to spand $400 on 2 you can always buy one then get the other one when you are ready. its just me because now i have 4 15L7 1 brz 2400 and a bxi that is rated at 2600 wrms that are just collecting dust and just that set me back $1630 when i could have used that with my current set up

its a very small place for 4 12, why not go with 1 15?

cant he just use an inline fuse instead of running another wire? anyways that happen to me when i went to install my amps last year like 10 months ago, stupid installer put 2 wires together and used zip ties to hold it then used blue tape like the one they use when you replacea window, i was so damn pissed and he said that it works so i told him since where it was done ran under the carpet wouldnt it create a short, he responded with thats why it has tape now step away and let me work im a proffecional, since i was in a hurry i let it go and got home later that night a fixed it running a new wire. few days later i complain to the shop he got fired and now i install my own amps since others dont give a crap about your things or if your car catches on fire. I still have that wire so if i ever see that guy working in another shop i can show the owner, anyways will take pics to show you guys. OP sorry for the thread jack

you can also try it then upgrade later, still a waste of money if you do that

just like the title says, head me up with the cost and pictures

it should be over 140

10 feet is more than enough

really depends on the pulley, he can get a smaller one and can peak at a lower rpm

okay we get that you did the big 3 but you said you tested the alternator and it did 220a at 4000 rpm, is that correct? that might be the problem

How do you know his "220" amp alt actually outputs 220 amps. Factory tested. 220amps at 4000rpm ground is probably my problem...there is no ground wiring, just what is mounted on the motor'. omg what company is that so i'll make sure i dont get one, 220 amps at 4000 rpm means you have to be driving over 100 mph.

How do you know his "220" amp alt actually outputs 220 amps. i dont know what it really dose but for sure its not enough to power his electrical, beef up the alt or get more batteries

this isnt rocket science my friend, your amp is pulling 200+ amps and you have a 220a alternator im guessing its around 90a at idle, you will get dimming regardless if you are driving since your alternator is not producing enough amparage you need to supply for that amp.

Winner winner chicken dinner! Taking an amp from 3ohm (guessing 75A of draw on your charging system) down to 1ohm (upwards of 200A or the fuse rating on the amp) is what you are noticing. Big3 Big3 Big3 -Drew so what is my prize OP you asked what was the point on subsonic filter? well the filter is there so you wont play anything under port tuning, am i right guys?

lol that is just funny OP why not turn off the db knob all the way down and properly install the bass knob by your dash so you can control it from there. one thing you dont see is the way you have it will be sending your subs dirty signals and will fry them and maybe even the amp.

well for one you first had it at 3 ohms the first time then wired it to 1 ohm which now makes the amp pull and makes more power

lol at least you are honest

you wont have that problem

correct horn box

dropping to 13.8 is okay any lower and you are over working your alternator. running any lower can even drain your battery and even turn off your car, i tested this on my truck and at 10 volts the head unit would turn off the amps didnt go into protect mode which is kinda weird

i use my DD-1 to set my gains and will use the CC-1 to set the crossovers on amps once it gets out, what the OP is going for is the volt drop issue, he can set the gain for a clean signal and monitor the volts with a meter. i just said half gain but if you read the post i did edit but left on what i said on my original post, the correct way will insure him that he gets the best performance of his amp he just wont be able to go full tilt for long periods of time

yes i agree with you on half gain since we still dont know the actual power but for the amp he has the stock alt can take it, i ran mine brz2400 just fine and my gains was set higher than half, the best way is to set amp with DD-1 and get a volt meter to keep an eye on the volts if you see it drop then go lower on the H/U after a while you will know at what level you can turn up your volume with no volt drop

why is it a horrible advise? some amplifier companies test amps at half gain and thats the power they rate them at not sure but i seen it when i was looking at a video on youtube edit: this is from a clamp test that was done by an amp company that tested at half gain, if the test it like that then it shouldn't be horrible to play music like that VVVVVVVVVV I am going to go through and drop the SAZ-1000D, SAE-1200D, SAZ-1500D, SAZ-2000D, SAZ-3000D, and SAZ-3500D in the Jeep and do a power clamp test so we have a rough and UNIFORM comparison between the amps in the same setup. Test Frequency - 50 Hz Test Load - 4x SA-12s all in parallel for 0.4375 DCR (1/2 nominal) Test Electrical - 6x Stinger SPV-70 + 225-Amp Alternator (vehicle only at idle) Amp gain set to 1/2 - Head Unit Sub Control 10/10 - Head Unit Volume 50/50 Setting gain to half on each amp is, of course, not an exact match... but for the sake of roughly comparing the amps I think it serves the purpose.