alaskanzx5

i would but some foam tape one the edge of the window and the window frame so that when you close the windows its foam on foam and the lock for the window would hold tighter.

Just got metered on a term lab for the first time. It was at a comp and I took first in my class. Classes where done by speaker size I have 2 12 so I was in stock 1. Not 100% on the frequency but it was between a 44-46hz and I did a 143.5 My question is 143.5 44-46hz sub up port up port passenger side a respectfully number on a termlab with 2 Rockford t2 12 on a t1500.1bdcp wired at 1ohm tuned to 43hz

hell, i will move there with you lmao. 25 years murder free is crazy. most have next to no crime rate...

well lets do the math here, if 2191 peole are correctly using their guns a day and only 34 people arent how many people use their guns for murder a week and how many use them correctly a week? 238 people murdered a week and 15337 people correctly use their guns a week. well from that i see a gun ban going no where... i mean if nearly 2200 people a day are saved from the proper use of a gun per day compared to the 34 deaths a day then why would one even think a gun ban would work?

i would suggest the biggest alt you can find/afford. just make sure its from a good company like dc, mechman, or singer. there are a few others but you get the point. rmember you can never have to much electrical upgrades.

or you could just get an xs power upfront under the hood. you will have to measure the stock battery and look at the xs power batteries to find wich one fits and then maybe a single d3100 for in the back. an isolator is only needed if you are going to run the system with the car off so that if you kill the battery in the back the front battery can still start the car.

havent done it myself but if heard of people taping/connecting the stock wire to the new wire and pulling it through.

a well devoted consumer will always be awarded when helping a business. for us in alaska getting xspower batts at a cheaper price just by being able to save on shipping could and would save us hundreds of dollars. i am more then willing to help out a respectfull business as long as i to can benifit from it even in the slightest way.

is the second pod design tinted? i have a great place right next to my dome light for one of these and would realy like it tinted so that its not to bright. i could always tint it myself to though... Sweet. Since my enthusiasm was vanquished, we better make sure that August means August 2012 before we get all moist about the release date. sorry, we are trying our hardest to get this done! again, we didn't want to release this without a pod. The design of that took longer then the design of the product itself LOL! We are glad you are excited though, we are too! yes! no! lol - i am looking at $69 price point, if i am lucky enough to make it available that cheap. I think i can! The problem is though, bringing all this stuff to market is EXPENSIVE. It does not just fall out of the sky. maybe a $65 group buy for all of you smd forum fans?? would be a quick way to sell a good amount which would only open the door for others to buy when they see such a great product in their buddy's car.

Wrong. They make spacers with studs in them that are just that....spacers. The bolt pattern will remain the same. There's more than just getting a 1" spacer if your wheel is too wide. The width AND the backpacking both need to be factored in before using spacers. Well if there are spacers with studs on them that keep the pattern the same that's new to me and I was just giving a general discription of what a wheel spacer is used for.

the ones for 90 a pair are to change the lug pattern not a spacer. the spacer your talking about would only have a benifit if you are using wheels that are to wide to fit with out the spacer. so if your will is 1" to wide you need a 1" spacer if it is only 20mm to wide then a 20mm spacer will work. if the wheels arent to wide then the spacer is pointless.

so, today i took some time to put some fabric on the box and paint the baffle. i left the speakers in when i painted it and just taped them off. didnt sand anything and maybe spent a while hour at most doing the fabric and paint so i know its not the best job in the world but it is only a temp setup because as everyone knows the build never truely ends. that and im realy wanting to wall the car with 4 12s but i might go with 2 15s instead because i could save a good amount of money going that route which i could put towards some xspower batts or maybe getting the car painted who knows. anyways i will take picks once its back in the car but first i have to find someone to help me carry the beast of a box back down the stairs and into the car. hmmm. 2 15s walled with the wall being as far back as possible or 4 12s walled with the wall being right behind the back seat??? save money to get better batteries ect ect or 4 12s??? maybe a coin flip??? well i have a good 6 months to figure out where im going with the sub setup because right now im working on my h/u and front sound stage.

ok, what they are trying to say is that you need either 1 sub that can handle 500watts rms or 2 subs that can handle 250rms each. if you get 1 dual voice coil 4ohm sub that can handle 500 watts rms and wire it to 2ohms then you will be doing just fine.

liking feel the bass, maybe in a week or 2 i could buy one from you? maybe silver or black? would prefer it to be somewhat small, maybe no more then 2" tall x 8" long i prefer any decals on my car to be on the smaller side.

if you doing a show/comp you might get more replies in the show or comp section of the forum... seeing as to how thats where people look for postings about shows/comps....

comp on august 12th in anchorage at uaa. check out soundworks facebook, they are hosting the spl comp at the show. they will post more info on the show as the date gets closer. registration starts at 10 am i believe it said.

^ hey that doesnt sound like a bad idea. although you would need so some how make room for a cooler to keep all the other drinks in...

^ mine cam with 6 gauge, and if im not mistaken most cars are stock 8-6gauge which isnt realy any better but yeah do the big 3 in 1/0 gauge. the yellow tops might hold up but you might want to consider getting more as they might be needed.

check with mechman dc power and singer alts. one of them should/will have an alt for you.

get a h/u with ipod control and a remote. proplem solved. dont have to look at anything to change songs or volume. thats why they make cd players with those functions.

there is no point to txt and drive. i was young and dumb and would do it before but after hearing about so many accidents i havent done it since i was about 17-18. txt while driving should be considered a dui, driving under the influence isnt just drugs what not. the guy was driving under the influence of a electronic device. i wont even look at my cd player while driving. i keep the remote on my lap so that i can easily grab it and change the songs or volume with out ever taking my eyes off the road.

well, dykes arent to bad. depending on how they look and as long as the strapon isnt involved lol...

well i would do which ever one is cheaper for you. altough the alt with big 3 would make a big difference.

hmmm... maybe cut across the bottom of the back as low as you can. reach up in there and place the sound deadener then use some velcro to hold the carpet down agian?