BassJunkie

Same dana as mine. When mine was making similar noises we looked in the rear end and it looked ok but it looked like it may have needed bearings shimmed up so rather than go through all that I ended up just swapping to a dana 60 in the rear. Just as much work if not more work but I had the piece of mind nothing would happen again no matter what load I had with a dana 60 in the rear

Do you know what rear end you have? It could be bearings if you've inspected the gears and they look ok. You would have to look up the specifics on this but I've seen where people mark gears with paint and then spin them to see how they're seating and using that info to determine what could be wrong and what side is causing the issue. Only problem after going through all of that is they're not fun to work on and rebuild. So definitely don't rule out a rear end swap if you can get a nice rear end for a reasonable price. I'm no pro, just had some experience with a similar issue I had in my old dodge ramcharger. I'm going to guess its fairly quiet while under load going up a hill, but it becomes apparent when its decelerating.

My sub - Big Krit (decafs gets even lower) Coca Coca - Gucci

Pretty cool slo-mo's. Will it record in higher quality at those speeds?

DeeOgee

Amazon has this same amp for 95 bucks.

Just a few things to keep in mind. Budget, and maintenance. If your current car already has things like new brakes, rotors, air cleaner, water pump, ect and is good to go for quite a few more miles without much work then you may want to consider keeping your ride. If you buy a different budget vehicle it wouldn't be a surprise to find it needs a few things to get it running and keep it running which would put you a few hundred back when you could already have a few hundred invested in audio in your current ride. Just some food for thought.

Scanned craigslist as well. Will keep my eyes open.

Pics?

By reversing positive and negative on the two inverted subs that would change the polarity of them. Theres no reason you CAN'T do that.

Looks good! Make sure to primer before you paint it for best results. Its worth the extra time it takes.

Just downloaded it. Gonna listen to it on my way back to campus tonight and I'll report back.

grossssssssss

I don't get why everyone is suggesting keeping the stock alt or modding the stock alt when the OP wants to upgrade the alt. The big 3 can only do so much, it doesn't make an alt 10x as powerful. /rant A mechman, singer alt, or dc power alt would do your rig justice. Anything with 100+ amps at idle should be sufficient and leave you room to upgrade things in the future. Just make your purchase based on what you want to spend.

Note the size of the head and how its attatched. Next to a bic for size reference:

If you use screws make sure to use bigger screws, not necessarily longer but thicker with a bigger screw head. (twss) I used a slimmer screw for my first wall and the heads snapped off of them after 8 or so months. Choose wisely or it could potentially cost you an amp or sub or both.

im pretty sure he said accelerometer Thanks. Now I'm wondering what brand and such

I exchanged a few pm's with you a few months ago concerning vibrations and how to test. What is the instrument used in this test?

x2. I don't care how many people try to tell me theres no way I can tell the difference I sure as shit believe I can hear the difference.

Thats impressive, I like those skar's more and more. Just need to hear some at some point.

The copper chassis reminds me of the old denon dct series. Specs look better (they should being 11 years newer). Waiting for ray as well.

You don't NEED rage, those should work alright. Just don't put it on too thick, which shouldn't be a problem by looking at what you're planning on filling. Rage is just a better product overall. Application, sanding, etc

My friend once joked about shaving his ass hair, so I sent him this story...looking back I should have let him lol