mttornquist

4th of July bump

Got this stuff from Snafu @ CE Auto Electric supply about a month ago and decided to go a different direction with my build. Everything is great quality, it's all crimped and heat shrinked. First is some 8 gauge wire. Its JL Audio brand 735 strands tinned. Asking $5 a piece plus actual shipping. The red pieces are each 3 feet long with a #10 fork terminal installed on one end. The clear pieces are each 4 feet long with a 1/4 inch eyelet on one end. I also have a 3 position ATC fuse holder with power distrobution. It will come with 2 30 amp fuses. Asking $10 plus actual shipping. If you buy everything I can do $25 plus actual shipping cost. Thanks for looking! This would be great for installing an entry level system or 2 small amps. All you would need is a run to the back to the distro block. PM me for more info

Just bought a Audison LRx 300.4 from him. Great guy to work with, very reasonable, and easy to contact! I cannot say enough good things about this guy, I would deff buy from him again! I give him a 10/10 rating. Thanks for doing business! PS. really cool guy to talk to too.

I have 6 premium sleeved cables from NZXT. All are black and individually sleeved wires. Got them a couple years ago but never ended up using them, all are bnib. The cables I have are one of each: 6 to 8 pin video card adapter 24 pin motherboard extension cable Molex to sata cable 3 pin fan extension 8 pin motherboard extension cable 6 pin video extension cable Not exactly sure what they are worth so I am asking $20 shipped. Thanks for looking! Edit: Fixed pictures with my name

I was thinking the exact same thing. hahah you can wipe up glue before it dries with a damp rag or paper towel

I use gimp, probably not the new version though because I hate updating software. Not very good at it but i can figure something out if I really need or want to. hahah I don't think it has as many features as Photoshop, but then again it isn't a couple hundred dollar program

I would put a piece of mdf parallel to the front of your box with a small gap between it and the box to limit vibrations. Then you can mount your amps on there and paint or upholster it up nice. And when you fold down the seats to lay stuff on. Edit: ninja'd haha

At least they have those aerodynamic front lips that stick out like 3-4 feet in front of the car! I think it looks cool! *sarcasm*

woahh wouldn't have noticed that it was a fourth order without this! Hahah its flashy. I like!

No that means that it includes the thickness of the baffle in the length of the port. That just means that the port starts at the very front of your box rather than behind the baffle. the centerline length of your port should be 32 inches from the inside end of your port to the very front of the box. If its 32 inches down the center to the outside edge of your baffle you did it right. Not sure if that makes sense, kinda hard to explain.

I was thinking the exact same thing. They must think they are the titanic.

Snafu's are custom. He will ask you for all the lengths you need and what size all the eyelets are and put it all together for ya. Check his website

thats moving a ton of air! haha

hahahahah thats funny

I will keep you in my prayers man! I know what its like a similar thing happened to me about 3 months ago. Its tough it will get better though

Check my sig for a tutorial. I would suggest 1.5-1.75 ft^3

I would just start over and make sure you take your time and measure at least twice!

Exactly so I need either a d2 sub or a s4 coil to get the full 210 watts. Been talking to Bkolfo4 and he said the assassin line has been discontinued but they are going to look around and see if they have the parts to throw together an assassin 10 in a s4 coil config. *fingers crossed* yes. but still, it is incorrect to say that bridging an amp gives you more power. The power the amp puts out stays the same. That is actually for the guy who said Kranny was wrong, when in fact he wasn't. okay i get it now! haha thanks everyone for clarifying!

Exactly so I need either a d2 sub or a s4 coil to get the full 210 watts. Been talking to Bkolfo4 and he said the assassin line has been discontinued but they are going to look around and see if they have the parts to throw together an assassin 10 in a s4 coil config. *fingers crossed*

I understand that but the amp does 65x4 @ 4 ohms or 210x2 @ 4 ohms bridged. So if I have a d4 sub and don't bridge the amp then the sub is only getting 130 watts but if I get a single 4 ohm sub and bridge the amp then it would get 210 watts. Similarlly if I get a d2 sub then I can leave it unbridged or bridge it and it will get 210 watts. Is there a different sub you guys would recommend for sq that is good off around 200-250 watts and is availible in s4 or d2 coil configs? That is if I can't get my hands on a s4 assassin. Thanks

So I could potentially just run each coil of the sub to a channel and run it that way? But the amp is rated at 65 wrms @ 4 ohms so then I would only be getting 130 watts total rather than the 210-220 I would get running it bridged.

PMed Can you explain to me why this doesn't make sense?

Alright so I just picked up an Audison LRx 4.300 and have a quick question about bridging it. It is rated for 220 rms @ 4 ohms bridged and isn't stable below 4 ohms when bridged. I would like to run it in 3 channel mode with my front end off the first 2 channels and my sub off the bridged channel. The sub I am looking at is an AA assassin. The problem is that the assassin only comes in a d4 coil configuration. So I am wondering if I wire the sub down to 2 ohms then expect to see at least 1.5 ohm box rise this brings my final ohm load to 3.5-4 ohms that the amp actually sees. Does this make sense and will it work without risking the amp? Thanks! Matt

I wouldn't have gotten it unless ^^strangeduck explained it. lolol