b-dubs89

damn well let me see if i can post a pic of what i got so far.. http://imageshack.us.../imag0614d.jpg/ if i see it right you made the outer cut , and you need to cut the center out next ? i think your dremel 4000 could do it , a circle jig makes for nice holes , you can use some flat steel or aluminum to make one if you don't have one . what exactly is it that has you stuck then ?

if you cut out the speaker holes already and were thinking of using your dremel 4000 to cut out the rings i don't see how it will work , assuming you are going to use or improvise a circle gig , there is nothing to center that with the holes you already cut . start over , or use the jig saw to finish the rings you started .

unzip the wind flap and love and you can't go wrong

bump

did you look at crutchfield fitment chart ?thats where i go to find out what fits

looking to sale or possibly trade this gear . please ask if you have any questions or would like to see more pics . payment is paypal and paypal only unless you will pick up in person in which case cash would be fine . first time to sell or trade here on smd . trades i would consider , 1 or 2 jl audio 13w1 sub 4 ohm model only , 2 or 4 channel amp for auto , cerwin vega house speakers big or small .anything else you are welcome to ask . i have 2 pairs of rca stereo speakers with bi-pole or di-pole tweeters , not sure which one and a 4or5 inch woofer . the cases are cast aluminum . they work perfect as they should . i would like $100 a pair shipping included to lower 48 states .not totally firm on price so offers are welcome.here's pics. i also have 3 of these speakers with bad tweeters and rotten woofer foam for parts , not sure what i want for those just yet . next up is a vintage kenwood stereo receiver , remote ready but no remote , rated 50 watt per channel . ok condition other than scuff on the front , i took a pic of scuff . asking 60 shipping included to lower 48 states .works great . sherwood stereo receiver with remote , works good looks good rated 100 watt per channel but i think its more like 50 watt per channel good budget receiver . asking 75 shipped to lower 48 states for this . trades or offers are welcome , just use common sense in deciding an offer. pm offers please .

lazy parents , and the fact that human services don't always support parent giving their kid a good old fashion ass whoopin . if any of them were my kid , there would be an ass whoopin for them followed by pt before and after school

knowing what i know about metals and such i think there's some truth to this , aluminum oxide protects against corrosion so aluminum don't corrode very much below the surface . still like copper .

%100 copper good , cca better than nothing . if you don't need alot of cable spend the money on copper if budget is in mind . cca is ok my preference is just copper , copper coated in tin is good cable too i have the rfk1d amp kit and rf's big cable is nice

take an mp3 player and one these cords and try

my bad

sometimes with a trunk car you can pickup some loudness inside if you can figure out a way to open the trunk into the cab . i had a buick century and i moded the back seat arm rest so i could open it and go thru to the trunk , that did help get a little more volume . thought about building a fourth order that would dump through the rear deck or the back seat , but i don't think i would be happy with the sound of a fourth order .

if you got time , you could try to find what you did as far as wire goes , sounds like a pintched wire or something unplugged . or the stock amp has been damaged due being incompatible with your aftermarket h/u some how

that could be it , best solution imo is run your own wires and amp them all

hope you aren't going to be one of those people who goes around advertising your stereo annoying anyone with in an earshot cause that aint cool . pre-fab boxes are better than nothing , but you could do alot better , ported is overall louder than sealed . if you have a volt meter , check what your ohm load is for your subs , some amps that are rated at 2 ohms will run at lower ohm loads , but they make less power at lower ohm loads . also your placement of the subs could be part of your low output . more specifically about placement , standing waives canceling out sound

what is the vehicle , i had a similar problem when installing a h/u in suburban , my problem was the rear speakers would be distorted due to there being a factory amp for the rear speakers and the higher wattage of the new head unit would overdrive that oem amp bad .the way that i got around that was pullin my own wires and bypassing the oem amp , which i had after market speakers any way , but if you have say a bose oem system , you may encounter speakers with some weird ohm load which may make it tough to run them with a h/u

twice in the last couple months , i bid , win and payed and then nothing from seller until i get refunded . ebay isn't so great lately . actually i have had this kind of bullshit from the start with ebay . first auction i won was for a pair of bose 301's , got em for 71 , guy jerked me arround for a month telling me they were shipped before finally refunding my money , cajunblue0 was that sellers id .they were never sent , he had no intent on following thru with the sale 2 months ago i bought 3 p2 10's from a guy they were suposed to be single 8 ohm subs according to his auctio , got 2 single 4 ohm subs with fucked up surrounds and terminals broke off one and 1 dual 4 ohm with 1 tinsel lead broken . too many fucktards on febay anyomore .

from what i have seen they are more affordable than alot of mainstream brands

the hiphonics amp might be ok for the money , my experience with poweraccoustic is not good , the box you could probably build something just as good or better . i too am on a budget , i have had a some rf p1 12's and 15's thought they were descent for the money . love my alpine mrp-m500 amp . very happy with my jl 13w1 subs to . since joining smd , it has occured to me i have been fishing off a small pier ,as far as car audio brands . been thinking more about sundown audio subs .

glad to hear you kept your cool , but sometimes i can't help but to wonder if things in this world would be different if nobody took or put up with shit like that

locking gas cap . checking vent is a good idea too . gas gauges are not that accurate always . i had something like this happening with my malibu , and in addition to all i would have it not want to take gas when i would go to put gas in , almost like the anti siphon was jammed . started not filling it up seemed to make a difference for the better . still somewhat puzzled as to what may have been happening . staypuffed has a good theory about building presser and forcing gas out somewhere . if you think some one is stealing your gas , get a gamecamera .

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/Support/rftech.aspx#boxwizard rf box wizard ?

i have only found 1 car that worked well for subs in the trunk , it was a buick park ave , something about that body was awsome for subs in the trunk . if you don't want to do a wall you could do a 4th order bandpass