b-dubs89

anything you buy for speakers is going to perform better with an amplifier . even if its only 50watt rms x2 , still better than deck power . i have had few systems with my mids and highs amped and it always sucks bad to go back to deck power

meh, id rather buy new, atleast new amps have warranties sometimes, and it's brand new and noone has ever used it. you have to read the fine print , because not every one who sells a brand is an "authorized dealer" , if you read the warranty most times you will see that only items purchased from an authorized dealer are covered under warranty . and then some warranties are not worth a shit anyways , cost to ship to and from for repair , turn around time for repair , and the chance they will not solve the problem the first time around . can you still get warranty on gray gear ? sometimes yes , but how much non sense before they take care of you . i have been on the seen of buying used gear too and the last few things have started to make me think otherwise about buying used gear off feebay . as for warranty though , i think if you can get a squaretrade warranty you might be covered pretty well

just out of curiosity , what part are you after "I need a 9" stiff spider for a 2.5" coil." this is the closest i could find anywhere , searching google for spiders turns up spiders allright , i would find spiders where ever and ask if they have the size you are looking for http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-10-with-leads-TC-Sounds-subwoofer-spider-damper-speaker-recone-/140772631743?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item20c6b3e4bf#ht_500wt_1287

just out of curiosity , what part are you after

i couldn't resist , every time i hear probox this is what comes to mind .

as i have heard it , after playing a while a little smell can happen pretty normal, but right away or really strong= DANGER , if the smell makes you uneasy back off a little bit . voice coils do get warm when gains are set to not clip after playing full tilt for an extended time

http://www.speakerrepair.com/ http://mwaspeakerparts.com/index.html http://reconekits.com/ there's a few , not sure what parts you seek , have seen re-cone kits made of orion parts to fit alpine type r motor on ebay , and also seen rf recones on ebay . went to fixmyspeaker for an rf t115d4 sub and they wanted like $150 and didn't offer a diy recone kit . so i didn't bother .

thats interesting , didn't know that about matching fets ,makes enough sense

i would have to ponder why it is that the mosfets are bad in the first place , that being said if there is a reason why they failed to begin with replacing them without solving the rest of issue you might see the same problem again. on the other hand it could be that the mosfets failed because they were on the smaller side , in which case you may want to replace them all with beefier ones . if you want to take it on i say go for it so long as you want to learn .if you don't want to learn anything ,may be best to pay someone who knows.

heat gun ,very helpful to work material . practice on some parts that don't matter . pickup some parts to practice on from salvage yard . every materials gonna be different .the basic is work from center out to the edges , working out wrinkles . for long term good result the glue is important , i would try the dap weldwood , or 3m spray contact adhesive . tried some no-name spray contact cement and had my carpet peeling in a year on my sub box .

here's some pics of my tma 1000.1 class d mono amp . rated 400watts rms @ 4 ohms , 700 rms @ 2ohm , and 1000 rms @ 1 ohm . has 3-35 amp fuses . i had the 500.1 version of this amp prior to picking this up . also have a 360.2 , will be putting up some gut pics of those as well .

here's a few pics of my build thus far got cd player and alpine components in front doors , alpine 2 ways in back , and 1/0 power and ground from rockford fosgate . this is a budget build , the alpine cde-9874 that i have was bought for $33 dollars on ebay, the alpine components were a bout $35 from ebay as well . what i spent the most on with this build so far was my rf 0 gauge wire kit , i went for the big one with distribution blocks and signal cables , spent $220 for that . not exactly sure what i needed 0 gauge for at this point , i am sure i will need it in the future . my sub set up will be 2 jl audio 13w1's which i have owned for a couple years now . not sure yet as to what i am going to do for enclosure , thinking about doing fiberglass baffle . to run my subs i will use a tma 1000.1 amp that also come from feebay $100, it should be a good match for my w1's power wise . pics to come when i get going on the sub phase of this . also thinking of doing something like an amp rack to clean up my wires and have a place to mount / hide wires and distribution blocks big three also to come .

nevermind

you could make some baffles out of fiberglass to seal the full range speakers off from the trunk , start with some foam baffles and build them up with resin and glass , the rear deck parts them selves may take some creativity to secure so they don't make a bunch of noise

i say go for it , if you have any issues with running synthetic , like new noises or a small amount of consumption , add some lucas oil stabilizer . mobile 1 and lucas oil stabilizer is my favorite combination , i usally run half a qt of lucas to 4 qt of oil

any volume really , but less noticeable at higher volume

1 pair of sps-600 components and 1 pair of sps 600 coaxial , wired parallel for 2 ohm crossover is identical from comp to coax on these , same inductor same capacitor

only have noise when something is playing , pause cd , noise stops

that would not surprise me i guess . its raining so i guess i am done for today , i think tomorrow i will try my trusty old monster cable patch cord

no , the rca's i am useing come with my rockford fosgate 1/0 gauge amp kit , i guess i will try that next . would like to think my rf patch cords are better quality than what i have seen at this point

on the lower side , less than half , my deck has 2 volt pre-outs , have noise at all volumes . the noise is maybe like a fuzziness from the tweeters mostly

while i have been waiting for reply i have since tried running only 1 set of speakers off my amp and still have noise , have also moved signal cables away from other wires , still have noise/distortion . would have swapped amp but i don't have another amp so i am now wondering about my amp at this point .

yes , one pair is component and the other pair is coax , but crossovers yes

over the weekend i installed 2 pair of alpine type s speakers in the factory locations of my chevy venture as well as an alpine cde-9874 and a 1/0 gauge kit from rf . i ran my own speaker wire for the type s speakers and am running them off a tma 360.2 amp , 2channels at 2 ohms . i noticed after a couple of minutes of listening that i seemed to have some noise , mostly out the tweeters music is less noticeable than test tones , very noticeable with test tones. not so much a like an alternator noise but more like a distortion . i have it with the engine on or off , i tried my old alpine deck and had the same noise , i also tried a ground between headunit and amp and still had the noise . the only thing i can think of is that i do have power cable and signal cables and speaker wire within a few inches of each other . any help would be appreciated

i have a 98 malibu and i can tell you the acoustics of this car body are lousy , and i have noticed the same thing you have with the subs raising hell with the 6x9's in the rear deck , boxes are not a bad idea , but i would like to try baffles for the by9's I tried those plastic scorpion baffles off of sonicelectronix... they didn't do much, did stop a little bit of air movement but still vibrated like crazy. did you notice in the malibu with the subs facing the rear, it raises the pitch of the bass? if that's the right term for it idk i was thinking of the foam baffles , but if they didn't seem to help , you could take and paint on some resin and fiberglass them make them solid .