Tim Lam

if youre in doubt, you could always just leave the factory wiring and just add the oawg ontop of it.

i would go knu

i wish i had money like that o.o looks great though, keep us updated!

CCA only matters for your wet cell battery(under the hood to start the car) and of course the higher the better(in most cases). but when wiring up multiple batteries, the only numbers you really have to look at is the Voltage to match up, and similar watts (best to use identical batteries)

might want to check all the connections. i know corrosion can cause some parasitic loads on the batteries. and of course bad ground and ruin them as well.

man, damn these local shops. where do they hire these fools? probably just trying to sell you some of their batteries. but if they've all been treated right(like none of them have died before or anything like that) you should be all good.

rules are here for a reason, thank you

no? im spending money on both...

will definitely look into that once i cough up another grand or so upgrading my electrical. may not need all this power now, but won't have to if i upgrade later. why do you need a grand to upgrade electrical when I'm talking about using a different port? because i have a list of priorities that im upgrading and since i JUST redid the port, i probably won't redo it until i finish my electrical.

will definitely look into that once i cough up another grand or so upgrading my electrical. may not need all this power now, but won't have to if i upgrade later.

2 12" Alpine Type R's off a Alpine MRP-M1000. you know, i actually watched that video while ago but i dont have a heat gun. i attempted using a blow torch(text on the spare piping of course) and that was a disaster. so i would have but didnt have the necessary equipment to do it. now thats not to say i dont want to, because i would love to, just can't atm.

no port noise from what i can hear. that was some pretty bad with the 4" but none that was decently noticeable with the 6"

looks good, that's a great calculator. wish i had that when i did my first box. what are you tuning it to?

So i made an earlier thread and decided to just make a single larger aeroport. originally it was a puny 4" with a shit rigged set up. so i went to Lowes and picked up a 2' tube of 6" PVC pipe and here's the difference. now the green PVC is just the left over pipe and the rest is of course installed. i had a 40"x16"x16" box, and a gross with displacement an overall ~4.5ft^3 box. now with that puny 4" this called for a 4"x~4.5"(35Hz) aeroport. this was horrendous with port noise and low output. i changed out to the 6" which called for a 6"x~14.5"(32Hz) aeroport and it made a world of difference. it was much louder on lower volumes, and before i could only feel the bass in my hands when they were vibrating with the rest of the car. with the 6", i can literally feel my throat caving in(not really) and my ears having sharp pain. now this was just a box upgrade(doing the Big 3 upgrade with 0AWG and a Kinetik HC1800) but it was felt almost twice as loud!!

yeah i think you have the m2's. i'm pretty sure the old level 2's were rated at either 300 or 400 rms. but whatever happened, im sure glad they beefed up all their subs. i was also thinking about getting a DC 1.2k amp, but thats also going to be more money:[

what a beautiful build. i was going through the pages of this, but didn't see where you put all the batteries? where did you manage to squeeze them in(or where are you going to if you haven't already)?

haha! i wish, but like i state i currently cant have anymore power in my car than 1k. i dont think i could get any significant flex with a level 6. what RMS/Peak are those anyways? no significant flex????? you clearly haven't seen this video then wtf, i have 1k rms... anyways, thanks for the help guys. i think im going to go with the 2 Level 2's as you guys said, its more cone area. im thinking they will get more flex and hopefully louder than my Type R's. and crandis16 i think you're correct. because i would see old videos of people slapping pairs of Level 3's on 1k rms, but i checked the website and they're 900 rms a piece, which made no sense compared to the amount of excursion they were getting. so im thinking DC is just stepping up their game so the 2 12" Level 2's it is. (once i save up of course lol)

yes i currently have that done, only with 4 gauge though. i desperately need a bigger fuse holder from my alt to my battery. but i guess after i install the battery, ill save up and order a couple feet of 0 gauge and get maybe a 200 or 300amp fuse? idk what size fuse to get put between the alt and the battery.

cancellation does make sense. it would just be a bit difficult because my port is dead center so idk if i should L line it to the left or right and not completely sure a 6" tube would fit behind the subs in the box.

well i just ordered a new battery for under the hood(Kinetik HC1400). that might just happen, i have do to more research to find a 1500rms amp i like. but i think ill get the 2 Level @'s. that way ill have more flexibility with a 1200rms(even though we all know they can take a lot more)

true, i think it would be more simple to just widen out my existing port. Would it work if i made the 6" aeroport with bends not with an L shape, but a T shape? how would i calculate the length of the port that way?

37135 level 2- 10, 12 level 3- 12, 15 Carbon Fiber Dustcap

haha! i wish, but like i state i currently cant have anymore power in my car than 1k. i dont think i could get any significant flex with a level 6. what RMS/Peak are those anyways?

because in 2 years ill already be in college, and ill getting rid of my car audio, as sad as it is, for room for things such as groceries and luggage.