Neel

I see your from the Inland Empire, plan on showing up to the socal event this sunday? I am sure someone there will be able to quickly diagnose your issue for you.

I would just remove the current run of 0 gauge, sell it and put it towards buying a second run of 3/0 so you can have one run for positive and one run for negative. Keep it simple!

For me its only welding cable for power wire, pure copper and the jacket is tougher than any cheaply made car audio branded power cable I have ever seen or used (including klm , fleks , monster , hyperflex , fosgate). I trust welding cable more then the stuff car stereos companies have to offer, no matter how impressive / big it looks compared to welding cable. I recommend using trusted brands for speaker cable or making your own RCA's, like Belden or Gepco. Here is a great article that Stephen Mantz wrote about cables, its a quick run down on RCAs, speaker wire and power wire. He does some basic math and draws diagrams to show his points. http://www.zedaudiocorp.com/Technical/Cables.htm

The Beats by Dre are atrocious and I regret taking the 5-10 minutes to demo them. I love the Sennheiser 595s and the 650s , never took a listen to the 555s. I enjoy the top end on most grado's in your price range but dont like the low end, its not as fun to watch movies with em in my opinion and feel kind of flimsy. Bose is a joke.... I would take my trusty HD280s over any of the bose headphones I have ever heard. Headphones are important to me, they are what I use as reference to what my car should sound like tonally. In fact the guys over at speakerworks were known to do this while building their undefeated grand national. Go over to a guitar center or sam ash and listen!!! Listening to speakers and headphones is like wine tasting, take a few minutes listening to a well recorded song that you know well then take a few minutes talking to a buddy then take a listen to the next set. (Talking to a buddy is the equivalent to taking a bite of bread in wine tasting in this analogy)

Well hook em up to your computer or a cd player and take a listen! Maybe post up some model numbers so we can get an idea what they are.

I paid 3.13$ the other day, my car only takes premium.

wait , so whats going on at the Palms Casino Ballroom? Just a big fosgate show? I will probably be in Vegas for CES if I can get the time off work..

Alright, well if you would have searched for infinite baffle, you would have found a similar thread to this in which i spent some time and replied.... Infinite baffle is an incorrect term commonly used in car stereo applications, an infinite baffle would be a driver installed on a baffle that was infinitely wide and tall, so that the rear wave and the front wave of the speaker never meet. In a car, you can maybe come close by working very very hard to seal off the cabin from the trunk. Also if you get the cabin sealed, you also have to ensure that the total airspace in the trunk will be equal to or greater then the Vas of all the drivers you are using combined, otherwise they will load off the space in the trunk. I am currently in the process of building a 3/8" thick fiberglass baffle that bolts into the frame of my car to hold a pair of 15" IDQv2s so believe me it is not easy. The rear deck must be completely sealed from the cabin , and also the C pillars need to be sealed. For the most part an true infinite baffle configuration is extremely difficult to achieve, the best we can do is try to slow down the rear waves of the drivers from entering the cabin.. which for the most part is acceptable. So the term infinite baffle is incorrect in this situation , it would be more appropriate to call it a trunk baffle (first heard it called this from the guys at ID). Drivers with a high Qts and low Fs are usually considered to be ideal for IB installs. It is not easy to do and is not going to be amazingly loud like a big ported box which is why most guys on this SPL oriented forum are not going to recommend it, but if done correctly it will sound amazing! Now that we have that out of the way, I don't understand how your saying due to your lack of time you are going to attempt this difficult configuration? Is it easier building a big ported or sealed box that takes a couple hours to design, build and slap in your trunk like most of the guys on this forum....or fabricate a custom baffle that will secure to the frame of your car and will need to be as close to perfectly sealed from the cabin as possible? Oh and there is no way you are going to have 10x the Vas of both 15" drivers in the back of your trunk, you will be lucky to even exceed or meet the Vas of the drivers combined. I would recommend the AE IB 15s http://www.aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=8

installed one a newer civic a few weeks ago and it worked great, just set your gains correctly otherwise you will have a high noise floor.

Check out the viper 5902

This one can do 4.7 amps at 19v http://www.opussolutions.com/index.php?p=product&id=55

A diode bridge is whats used to convert AC to DC, you need to convert DC to AC. What are you trying to power on 12v? Audio and computer stuff runs on DC , so all you have to do is bypass the original AC to DC power supply and replace it with a DC to DC power supply.

LOL treossi FTW!

No you should not paint your car black, it is not worth the money because the car is so old.

I bet you would not be able to tell the difference between sizes in a double blind test. Most people go with the notion that round speakers sound the best and odd shaped speakers sound bad. As usual most people have no clue about what they are talking about and have never picked up an acoustics book in their life. Odd shaped cones when designed correctly will actually have less modal resonance compared to a standard round speaker. To the OP : fit the largest size driver you can in the stock location, make some trim rings and dont be afraid to start cutting some metal!

use chop mat and a fiberglass roller , shouldn't have any problems.

Check out this thread on DIYMA... http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-...treatments.html I love referencing to DIYMA, there are many extremely intelligent members on there.

Thats an interesting question, need to find an aerospace engineer ... or give JPL a call? lol

no price range? Image Dynamics Q1200.1 !!! class A/B monoblocks ftw But really, my buddy has the Sundown SAZ-1500 and for what you pay its a great amp!

Ok Where is this information coming from? How can you give enclosure advice if you dont what drivers he is using? Please explain how running them in a sealed enclosure will hurt their high end response? I am tired of the lack of knowledge being spread lately.

Why would the gains be cranked? Do you even know the input voltage he will be feeding it? If the gain is set correctly , there is no problem, no clipping. Read the sticky on gains, then read it again...Both of you . "that amp at 1 ohm is rated to put out 1500rms so the gain would be set relatively high" - This statement shows me how little you know... please pick up a book and learn.

ok for you two that answered above , please explain why this is "stressing the amp" lol please dont post if you dont what you are talking about. Gains set correctly and speakers wired correctly to 1 ohm will not stress an amplifier that is rated to make power at 1 ohm. What does stress an amplifier? voltage drops , cranked gains , wiring the load to a lower impedance that what it is rated for...etc

Top right corner there is a box called options, change it from outline to standard

Infinite baffle is an incorrect term commonly used in car stereo applications, an infinite baffle would be a driver installed on a baffle that was infinitely wide and tall, so that the rear wave and the front wave of the speaker never meet. In a car, you can maybe come close by working very very hard to seal off the cabin from the trunk. Also if you get the cabin sealed, you also have to ensure that the total airspace in the trunk will be equal to or greater then the Vas of all the drivers you are using combined, otherwise they will load off the space in the trunk. I am currently in the process of building a 3/8" thick fiberglass baffle that bolts into the frame of my car to hold a pair of 15" IDQv2s so believe me it is not easy. The rear deck must be completely sealed from the cabin , and also the C pillars need to be sealed. For the most part an true infinite baffle configuration is extremely difficult to achieve, the best we can do is try to slow down the rear waves of the drivers from entering the cabin.. which for the most part is acceptable. So the term infinite baffle is incorrect in this situation , it would be more appropriate to call it a trunk baffle (first heard it called this from the guys at ID). Drivers with a high Qts and low Fs are usually considered to be ideal for IB installs. It is not easy to do and is not going to be amazingly loud like a big ported box which is why most guys on this SPL oriented forum are not going to recommend it, but if done correctly it will sound amazing!

Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS! The 9887 is great , my buddy has it but the only thing is that your equalization is extremely limited unless you pair it with a h701 or something. I used to have an 880 and I loved it so much in fact if it had an optical output I would still be running it. I installed / tuned / used both the 9887 and the 880 and IMO the 880 takes the cake , dual 16 band EQ is a great tool as well you can actively change phase / crossover over point / crossover slope / level / signal delay on every single driver in your car without getting out of the drivers seat.