sully

Viper or Code, any of the DEI lines will be good to go.

That sounds like the way to go but when you are running all of them at 16 volts you won't have anything charging the 12volt batteries so you could only do it for competitions or demo's. Have you thought about doing 14volt battery bank and charging just shy of 16 volts, your stock electronics are usually rated to 16volts so you would be good all around. I have been looking into this option cause MTX amps can't take over 16volt input so a couple alts charging at 15.8 and a 14volt battery bank would maximize their potential.

yourautotrim.com they have 4 way stretch

I walled my 97 Celica hatch back with 4 kicker comp 15's on a ZR1000 about 10 years back. Before that I had one Eclipse aluminum 12 in a big ported box that was crazy loud for 1 12. Hatch back cars are pretty easy to get loud with a good ported box

you can do one big port or two smaller ports, one per sub. If you post up the sub specs you will have a better chance to get a box design. I would need the full spec sheet to use my design program.

Even if the shop is building a custom kit there is no way that it should be that much. Try another shop cause they are crazy. They are talking about $325 just to mount the radio/screen in the dash. I know people that would glass it in for less than that.

typically it is all black, around here it is all flat black. Looks good but that is not what i would call murdered out.

those trucks are huge, why are you having problems? You can make a basic box and panel it off for a clean install, maybe flush in the amps and do some plexi.

KNU wire is great but it will cost more than a $100 for copper wire. I got some off Ebay that works fine and I have run the welding wire that is even cheaper but less flexible. You will get what you pay for cause I have seen some 0 awg wire that looked more like 4 awg wire in a larger jacket.

That is exactly how I have mine, 2 viair 480's on each 5 gallon tank. Takes just a couple minutes to fill from 0 to 200psi, takes even less to go from 140 to 200 where the pressure switch is set.

this is the one that I have, it has taken care of my kinetik battery bank for several years trouble free. CLICK

You need a maintainer more than a quck charger. Something that you can hook up overnight daily and has the circuitry in it to desulfate and cycle the batteries. A charger of this type will discharge the batteries and then fully charge them and in FLOAT mode it will pulse charge them instead of a steady charge. You will get much better life out of your batteries if you use the right charger. If I remember right mine was right around $120 and it kept my battery bank fully charged/maintained durring two different year long deployments. I plug my truck in everytime it is in the garage using the quick connect that I tucked behind the front grille.

Ive run Viairs for years trouble free, I've got 4 480's on my truck right now. You may have gotten a couple bad ones or ran them too hard for too long. They are rated to 200psi and will do it all day long but you will need alot more than two if you are going to play with the switches a bunch. They are destined to fail on 10 gallons of air if they are running constantly. Oasis are great but very expensive or try to fit an engine driven compressor under the hood.

I don't use either, guess I'm old school. I've always braced with MDF, done properly you will have little to no flex. I've see a lot of builds on here that didn't need half the bracing that was used. If you are doing 4 woofers on a single flat surface you will need 1.5" mdf on that side, a couple strategically placed braces and you will be more than fine. If you are going with a packman style face on the box the design alone makes it less likely to flex and a few MDF braces are going to make it rock solid. Easiest way to look at it is the larger the mounting surface the woofer are on the more bracing you will need. You can also design the port so that it acts like a brace to cut down flex.

I know that's right, I got back from Iraq a couple months ago and we are going to Afghanistan in the summer, deployments really let you know what you are missing. Welcome back and thanks for your service!

there is no way I would run them on that car. The ride is going to be way bad unless you go with bags. There is going to be cutting either way, bags are cheaper, ride better and easier to replace if something goes wrong. I would do a Slam RE7 or a firestone 2700lb bag up front if you can get it to fit, with a good shock the ride will be amazing.

Can this control 2 ford 3G Mechman 250 alts with one module? It is on a 2003 F150 4.2l Also with this module can I go back to running a 14v battery bank? I had one before but the alternator couldn't keep it fully charged. The tech at Ford said as long as I keep it under 16volts max the stock electronics are going to be fine. And will charging at 15.7 or so be enough to keep 14volt batteries charged?

Around 2.40 if I'm lucky, lately it has been more like 2.50. DFW

click on the link

Get wit IF Custom they are ford specialists.

Hit up the major manufacturers and see what they can do. Someone might give you a price break if you are doing 36 12's in there.

You have officially been put on my do not help this guy list. It would be in you best interest not to be a smart ass to people that are trying to help you. It was stated that only 2 valves were needed. We explained why you would need 8.