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gckless

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Everything posted by gckless

  1. Bracing the roof and keeping the headliner is proving to be more difficult than I thought.

  2. REALLY don't want to take my headliner out. Got to brace the roof though :/

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. Tecomah

      Tecomah

      I almost had to take off half my dash to get my headliner off last night lol

    3. gckless

      gckless

      Oh really? Mine's not too bad, about a half hour of work and it slides right out.

    4. Raptorman

      Raptorman

      I have to take the front seats out to remove mine. Because of the pole and the wall. It was simple to remove before the wall.

  3. hmmm, maybe the next time we do something with the amps we could look at that OR we cound do a plaxi bottom cover, you can reverse mount the amp, now the logo is correct no matter how its mounted and super sexy looking That's a good idea too, for sure. I made my own plexi cover and mounted upside down Only issue you run into there sometimes are mounting problems (heat, actually physically mounting it). I think if you did a plexi cover, you could also make some sort of bracket for upside-down mounting. Shouldn't be hard, just an "L" bracket with screws in the top for the amp tabs and feet on the bottom to mount, and enough space for the heatsink to breathe. Might even be able to sell that separate. Dunno, just an idea. I want a cut if you use it!
  4. I like it, looks good. Kinda wish you woulda made the logo and amp size lettering reversable though, for those that may mount with power inputs to the left. But still, looks better
  5. Define "laughing at". I hate when people say that. It means nothing. How do you know you're not a cooter-hair away from a bad day? Rant over lol. Dude around here had two Zv.4 12's on an NS-1, and the surround was dimpling at full tilt. I'd say that's pretty near limits. Enclosure definitely plays into that though obviously.
  6. Sound pretty immature to me. Not necessarily Sundown's fault, could have happened during shipping to you. Bend it back or send it back, either could have been done in the time it took you to write that post.
  7. Well this is only measuring draw, which doesn't correlate to RPMs at all. To use this ammeter on anything over 10A, you have to use a shunt. You wire the shunt in your ground wherever you want to measure, and you wire the ammeter to the shunt. The shunt provides a specific voltage drop across it's sides, and the ammeter calculates to find amperage.
  8. It's called an ammeter. I've asked D'Amore before here with no response. Check out here: http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/showthread.php?6532-I-Haz-Analog&highlight=analog Also check out the last couple pages of my build log. Here's a quick pic:
  9. I doubt they will I mean you would tap into these inputs anyway from the outside of the amp sooooI doubt they should mess things up...I stated earlier that this will have an external fuse that I can change out incase of a short, so the guages and amp are protected individually, as far as power consumtion...these meters draw probably less than 5 amps..havent hooked them up and checked for sure but I'm using dual inputs so there should be no problem...should but someone more educated could chime in and back me up. Thank you thank you! dude just showing the amps guts is a project in and of it's self!! mounting it upside down makes everything challengin! Soo props to you and everyone else who loves to show amp porn like this lol...mine is slightly R rated..i put some lingerie on mine lol! How are you mounting it upside down? Here's how I did mine: Some semi-flexi water pipe and brass tube from Lowe's. Bolts and then T-nuts on the underside. Also, did you wire a switch in there? Or a relay? I could see a relay with the signal from the remote turn-on from the HU, but I didn't see a switch or relay at all in there. umm no each guage has power ground and remote turn on...so all three ground tied to gether run to ground from amp all three positives tied together ran to positive block and all three remote wires tied together ran and soldered to the remote turn on to the amp...if you are refering to the fans they are completely controlled by the TM-1 to kick on at 100 degrees f...if any one doesn't know about the TM-1...definatly do some research...its a bad ass tool As for mounting the amps..if you notice all the allen head bolts the three middle and three top only srew into the holes I drilled and tapped into the heat heatsink the 4 corner allens go all the way through them amp and will be what hold the amp to the amprack..follow..it will be slightly spaced so it isnt contacting the rack. But damn dude great looking install! Honestly love the wire organization and obviously love the green SHCA wire....wish I could have done that because I love green! The way you spaced it is what most people do and looks fantastic! This is just how I decided..I may shave off the mounting feet entirely for a cleaner look and so its easier to see my gains and such when installing. Yeah man, I think it would look really good if you cut off the mounting feet. Also, even though you have the fans in there, don't forget that the heatsink for the large heat-generating components (the MOSFETs) is the case itself, which those aren't cooling. Basically just saying to make sure you space it enough. But I think you know what you're doing
  10. Thank you thank you! dude just showing the amps guts is a project in and of it's self!! mounting it upside down makes everything challengin! Soo props to you and everyone else who loves to show amp porn like this lol...mine is slightly R rated..i put some lingerie on mine lol! How are you mounting it upside down? Here's how I did mine: Some semi-flexi water pipe and brass tube from Lowe's. Bolts and then T-nuts on the underside. Also, did you wire a switch in there? Or a relay? I could see a relay with the signal from the remote turn-on from the HU, but I didn't see a switch or relay at all in there.
  11. This is very nice work man. I thought I was doing well when I put a simple plexi back on my 5.0k lol. Edit: Nevermind, didn't read that far.
  12. Sorry to say, I doubt it will be more musical. I don't believe the Level 5 uses anything more in the motor (like shorting rings or anything like that) than the Level 4's do, they're just bigger. I'm not the engineer though, so I could be wrong. But it will probably come down to install.
  13. I definitely am not speaking for him, but I know he was working on a set a while ago, probably this time last year, and it kinda got put on the backburner because of the new sub development. I believe he was really focusing on the tweeter as well. I haven't seen anything lately, which kinda sucks
  14. Do you guys have plans to develop a DC ammeter gauge, be it digital or analog? Hoping for 500A or more, I've already got the shunt
  15. It's almost definitely the YouTube music. YT compresses and does weird things when you upload. Buy some off itunes or buy a CD of the same music you normally listen to off YT, and play at the same volume, see if they get stinky.
  16. dual 2's with strapped 3.5k's in a box that Rusty gave me specs for, it is tuned to 36hz So, you're wired to 1 per amp? If so, that would be why they're stinky lol. after rise there is know way their actually getting 3500 watts... I just went with the subs rusty recommended. I know its not power issue, it is clipping issue. So if you know what it is what's the point of the thread? No sub should smell regularly. Some have a slight glue smell when first played, but most should not. And it's probably not clipping that much, but since you are running so much power to them, even slight clipping is likely to make them smell. Only way to be sure is to use Audacity and buy an oscope.
  17. dual 2's with strapped 3.5k's in a box that Rusty gave me specs for, it is tuned to 36hz So, you're wired to 1 per amp? If so, that would be why they're stinky lol.
  18. What power and what is your enclosure like? Mine never got stinky. Level 3's on a DC 2k.
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