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  1. Most updated pics can be found at | I use Tumblr as my picture hosting platform | Previously I had a RF Prime 750.1 going to two RF 12 4DVC on stock electrical and big three. New Build Equipment Active Setup from HU: Pioneer 80 PRS Front Stage T2652-S powered off a P600X4 (4 ohm | speaker per channel) Lows 2x P3 4DVC powered off a DC Audio 2k (1 ohm | Dual 1/0 inputs) Batteries Starter - Walmart Group 51R | Reserve - XS D3400 (Flat 6 bolt) Alternator Mechman 240 Blue Wiring RCAs - Rockford Fosgate 20ft | Sky High 1/0 Blue (2 runs) | Sky High 10 gauge (subs) | Front Stage Speaker Wire - undecided matching Sky High 14 gauge Fuse Holders / Gauges Blue Seas Analog Volt Meter | Stinger Volt meter (red) | Sky High dual anl fuse holder (two for main power and one for sub amp input) | SMD Fuse Blocks 3x dual 1x single Planned Upgrade List 3 pairs of RCAs Done New Wider False Floor Not needed New Sub Enclosure 2x12 or 1x15 DONE 2x12 Amp Rack for Dc 2k and four channel Done Distribution Block/Fuses (trunk) Done Dual Fuse Mount under hood Done Replaced with SMD dual fuse holders - Thanks audiofanaticz Running two runs of 1/0 Sky High OFC front to back Done Battery Mount for XS D3400 Done Mechman HO Alternator Done New Headliner New Rear Parcel Tray or Reinforce old? Fix Gas Lid Wire Done Stinger Volt Meter for front and rear batteries Done Treat doors for new mid woofers Outer skin treated, need to cover holes with thick metal sheet and rivets Run speaker wire for mids and highs Done Install train horn in rear bumper Setup LEDs above amp rack Done Install distribution block and run +/- 4 or 8 gauge for it. 4 gauge +/- Done Run speaker wire for subs Done temporarily (will be upgrading to posts like these or something similar so I can parallel at them instead of the sub) Sound Deaden areas; Doors (outer skin middle 1/3 done and focus directly behind speaker) Roof Wheel Wells Hood Trunk lid (lower 1/2 done) Trunk spare tire (1/4 done) Parcel Tray Head Unit: Pioneer 80 PRS Amp: Subs / Old Q-power Box: Under Hood: Day 1: Strippin 'er down Trunk Cabin | Rear/Front Seats Removed and some panels including center console (didn't get a pic of rear seats will do tomorrow)
  3. This is a slow build log because I need to get the truck running again first. Mods done to the truck over the years 305 5.0 replaced with a crate 5.7 350 330hp 400ftlb torque Auburn Posi with 4:10 gears Shorty headers Full Flowmaster dual exhaust from the headers back 18" Dante Designs wheels licensed with the Cragar Logo. Like only 200 sets were made from what I am told. shaved door handles smoothy front bumper Stillen Phantom grill BIG 3 stinger HPM 0/1 Mechman 370 and 250 hairpin Alt, and JS 350 hairpin Alt Rear bench replaced with custom mounted fold up jump seats. Billet Dash Belltech 2" 4" drop kit Energy Suspension Polyurathane bushings Body mounts, sway bar, control arm Edelbrock performer IAS shocks 96 computer replaced with 2002 GM 0411 PCM (easier to mod) Dyno tuned XS s3400 under the hood Automatic 4L60e to Manual NV3500 transmission swap. Luk Clutch Hurst short throw shifter kit High performance distributor from DUI distributors new carpet new Corbeau racing buckets Custom center console Leaf spring helpers still to be done Fiberglass doors Vinyl head liner Seal off blowthrough Vmax Manifold/plenum Spacer get retuned on the Dyno Caddy tail lights Equipment purchased for the System so far Copper CNF battery terminals 150' Sound Quest Hybrid 1/0 70% OFC / 30% CCA 2 Power T2000 Rockford Fosgate 2 Fi SP4 15's with the new surround 1 Power T15004 Rockford Fosgate 3 sets of Fosgate T1675-s for the doors 4 Rockford fosgate P2D4 8's 3 sheets of 3/4 MDF 72sqft of sound deadener 6 Datasafe 135ah UPS batteries Alpine IVA -105 HU Still to purchase for the System 1 set 4x6's for rear fill And finally what I have for sound today Crappy $90 Kenwood to get me buy (My cda-7878 died) 3 1/2" Fosgate mids for rear fill (powered by headunit) 4" Fosgate mids in each door (powered by headunit) 1" Alpine Tweeters in each door (powered by headunit) 2 Fosgate 8" D4 tuned 35hz 1 Fosgate punch 500.2 bridged to 500 @ 4ohm And now for pics of the truck and what it looks like today. used pedal assembly for tranny swap 1 of 2 new seats Hurst short throw shift kit Performance Distributor The POWER The Mess as it sits today And here is the box plan for after the truck runs again
  4. Parts of this log will be copied over from where I currently have it on CACO I just wanted to share it here since I'm a new member started working on it in early December it's a slow project. Well for a long time I'd been trying to sell my Grand Prix and just couldn't seem to get rid of it. Guy offered to trade me a Jeep and I've always wanted a jeep so despite the Jeep having 250K miles I took him up on it. The interior is super clean and the outside is in good shape as well. Rockers are a little rusty but that's a Michigan Jeep thing.The plan for the Jeep is for it to be a winter beater/audio ride. Trying to keep the salt off of my Duramax. As far as the audio goes planning a B Pillar 4th for 4 18's on roughly 8k. From my rough measurements today I will have 46 cubes gross to work with. Progress will be kind of slow as I'm currently laid off. The goal is to be finished by whenever the first show in Michigan is. Will be primarily competing in IASCA and ISPLL. I always wanted a cool build log name even though it's lame.Builds that I'll be pulling some inspiration from include, Galen Winesette's Jeep, Chris Russ' Jeep, and Don's TDH Jeep.Tenative Equipment List:Electrical2 Mechman 320's Externally RegulatedFull Throttle Group 31 for under the hoodJY Lithium (Leaning towards 80 AH)Welding Cable 2/0 (Lots of it)ILL Customz Battery Terminals Clarion CZ702 already have (unless I find a great deal on an 80 PRS)4 Cascade Omega Neo 18's (building motors like Robs, PSI recones likely)Amp must be under 8K class restrictions (Flatline B2A, M1S, AB 750.1)Not sure on mids probably Crescendo PWX's or McLaren4 Channels (Really thinking PPI 900.4's)Other:Welder (Really want a lincoln Power Mig 210 with the Tig torch)300 or so feet of steel 1x2 tubingAir Bags of some sort I'm sureBHE 4th order design or something similarVolt Meters Out with the old: In with the new: Like I said it's clean: Going to be a shame to gut it from the B-Pillar back: Steel sets:
  5. I am looking to upgrade the electrical in my Honda Civic 1.8L 08 Coupe. I already have done some preliminary stuff, but I am in need of an alternator option. From what I can tell Mechman is a great option, but I wanted to know if anyone has had experiences with Mechman in a Civic? or any other companies for that matter.
  6. I was hoping to hear a little about what kind of alternators you guys use / have used and what your experience with them is. Like what size is it, for what vehicle, how many, what is it powering, what is it putting out? ...did it fail, is it nearly indestructible, did you have to customize your vehicle to make it fit (and how so?) Basically any information you provide would be really helpful. You can only find so much information from digging on the internet before you have to start asking questions. Anyway, I want to buy a new alternator for my Pontiac g6, but I'm really unsure of what to get. The biggest alt I can find for my vehicle is a 240 amp. Basically I'd like to be able to have a more than sufficient power supply if possible. I don't think there is any room to run a second alt under the hood.. Which would be nice. But I was thinking if there was a way for me to make a custom bracket to mount a bigger universal alternator.. that would probably be best? If anybody has personal experience with a g6 and alternators, please let me know! I would greatly appreciate any personal experiences, suggestions and feedback
  7. So i figure i should post some of my own car audio setuo here on SMD istead of just commenting on others stuff and posting "random pic's" Did alternator upgrade for the 2nd time (from a 170 G series mechman to 250 Elite) & wiring upgrade yesterday (for the 3rd time) i think it turned out ok. Not much to see in the cab but it does the job, My source unit, the istreamer i'm using is mounted to the backside of the side slider. I've got some running around to do this afternoon, will post some more pictures of the setup later.
  8. Figured I would share some pics of stuff I have been up too. List of equipment for the 2001 GMC Sierra AKA "The Black Nasty" Kenwood DNX9990HD !!!!! 6 AQ HDC3-v4 15s w/custom Kevlar Dust cap and AQ3 decal 6 HDC4 15s w/oversized 8 inch carbon Q caps 6 AQ SDC 2.0 8s 4 AQ3500D.1s w/copper Toolmaker Dual inputs 6 Q1-3500D.1s w/copper Toolmaker Dual inputs 6 Batcap 4000s and 1 Batcap 3000 4 SMD 340 amp Mechman yellow alts 8 AQ mr6.5 PA mids 1 Q1-2200 2 Q4-120s 8 SQ supertweets 400 ft Stinger Pro 1/0 wire - 700 ft total 250 ft Stinger Pro 8 gauge for speaker wire 45 sq ft Damplifier Pro on front half of roof Ported wall tuned in 30s(gotta have some secrets) On with the pics and rebuild to start within the next few weeks. Ultimate goal of build loud on music PERIOD!!!! Toolmaker inputs One of the two new additions Kevlar Dust caps How they look on the subs Custom AQ3 decal - Thanks Richard(Techforce)!!!!
  9. I aint new in here, but we don't really see such kinda installs here in India. I know walled setups in other countries are common but here in India it is relatively new. Some of you folks might have checked my earlier build log posted here I was using 2 FI SP4 15"s in a ported enclosure in boot of a SUV and managed to do a hairtrick. A vid can be seen here Was already bored of the setup and wanted to try something new.. Went through a thread on CACO regarding 4th orders and decided to try one of those for SP4's (Got impressed by vids posted by soundstreamsilverado), Took his suggestions regarding the enclosure and that's how it all started. Once again the ride in which the setup was done..
  10. Well guys finally starting my build i got the subs in and the wood just trying to figure out how to do this box i will have pics on the design tonight i am just having trouble with the port. XS power D3400 Coming in the mail soon and not sure on what amp yet ether crescendo or DC I am Thinking 3000 or 2000 RMS not sure yet. Here is the truck and please put your input in i want this thing to be the best it can be.Equipment List2001 GMC sierraDropped on 20sPioneer 1400 DVDFPioneer 4x6MB Quart Component setRockford Fosgate R300-4Audio Technix Zero GaugeXS D3400-Mechman 270 AltDC Power Level 4 10s M2SMD DD-1 ChristmasDC 3.5k SOONMore to come
  11. 12.9" Ipad Pro Sony RSX-GS9 Mosconi 8 to 12 Aerospace Mosconi Zero3 Mosconi Zero4 x2 Focal Utopia 8" x2 Focal K2P 6.5" x4 Focal K2P 3.5" x6 Focal K2P Tweet x4 JL 12TW3 x3 XS Power D6500 x2 Mechman Alternators x2 SMD Split Distribution Block
  12. Post your real or dream audio system below, I just wanna know what the community has. My real audio system--- 2 DC level 4 15's Custom box 3 4" aeroports 7 cubic ft tuned @30 2 Sundown sae1500D Alpine CDE-143BT 2 Alpine type r 6.5 componets 4 Crescendo PWX pro 6.5 2 Alpine Type r tweets 2 Alpine mrx-m110 Murdermat in all doors/back wall Skyhigh 0/1 awg runs Mechman 240A alt Skyhigh 18awg to door speakers JL rca's 2 XS d1600 My dream system--- 4 DC level 6 15's Walled box tuned @30 All Skyhigh/Certified Basshead wire 2 DC 10.0k 4 Crescendo neo 8" 6 Crescendo neo 6.5" 4 Crescendo ft1 DC amp/amps to power speakers 2 mechman 370A alts 4 XS lithium batteries Murdermat double layered everywhere custom dash If only I had the money/means for my dream system lol
  13. Finally getting a build log going, I had 3 goals in mind when I started this build: 1) 150+ db outlaw 2) 145+ db at 20hz or below (outlaw) 3) 150dB at the windshield legal I have a termlab and hope to share my results along the way. I've been working on this build for 5-6 months now and have done alot of testing with the TL. Sub Bass is my main focus right now because I want to compete with this vehicle. I do plan on upgrading the stock mids and highs at some point but for now I'm putting my time and money into SPL. I'm starting with JL simply because thats what I had in my old F150 and I want to see what they can do from a trunk. 150 db seems a bit unrealistic from "SQ" subs but I will see how loud I can get them and if I hit a plateau before 150 I will get subs more suited for SPL. Here's some pics of my new ride. Not the biggest trunk but it will do.
  14. Sent the following to Mechman via their online form, but I figured I would post here to see if anyone else has any insight on this for me in the mean time while waiting for their response. "Hello, I purchased one of your alternators, via Sonic Electronix, for my 2008 Chevy Silverado. It has the 5.3L (VIN-J) and the alternator model is the 270A 8302270. I wired it with all 1/0 OFC cable, ensured the ground from the alternator to the battery runs through the Hall Effect sensor, used a 3/8” shorter belt (Gates) and replaced the tensioner for a new one (Gates). All works great except one thing, when the engine gets to about 3000-3500 RPM the voltage drops to battery voltage, then once back to idle the voltage comes back up. I'm not sure if this is by design or if there is some belt slippage at high RPM. If it is the latter, I cannot tell since it is a new install and I see no indication of belt dust yet. I wanted to get your input before I start going out buying anything. I eventually am going to order Gates Green Strip belts since I cannot get them locally, but I want to be sure of the length before I do. Right now, I have brand new Gate Micro-V belts installed since I can get those locally. The stock belt is 94" (K060935). Right now I have the 93-5/8" (K060930) installed, but the 93" (K060923) will fit, however with the 93" installed the tensioner is almost maxed, unsure if that is a factor or not. If you think I need a shorter belt, I will go out and purchase the 93" and if that solves my problem, I will be ordering the 93" Green Strip version (K060923HD). Thanks in advance and I hope to hear from you soon so I can resolve this." I should also mention I did try the 93" but never ran it with it due to the tensioner being almost maxed, so I returned it for the currently installed 93-5/8". I'm doing a new build to, so other than stock components, there are no aftermarket devices (amps, etc.) putting any additional load on the alternator other than a second battery.
  15. I've noticed that if I disconnect the negative terminal on my battery I still have power to the vehicle. I'll have to disconnect the positive to get it to completely turn off. I did an alternator swap on the Trailblazer and the big three so why do you you think this is happening? I've posted my set up on my build page as far as wiring. I can put a pic in this post if needed. Thanks!
  16. This is what my pulley is doing. I have a new belt on it, however it is the aftermarket correct length for a regular alternator. Does anyone know the correct model number in the Continental brand I can get? I'm sure this is not normal at idle and I need a shorter length. Just don't know how much... Belt I ordered.
  17. I'll add some pictures and details as I compile them. For now there's an entertaining video log. Work in progress, it's getting better every day. I'm very open to suggestions.
  18. Okay so here she is. This is a 2007 Ford F-150 in shadow grey and I've had it since I was 16. I dont have many pictures of before I did everything, but I wanted to get an overview type build log up and going. You can see what all equipment I have in my sig, but just in case that you can't here is all of it. Fi Q 15 High QTS option Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcp Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5 components Rockford Fosgate Punch 6x8 coaxials Pioneer AVH-P2300DVD Mechman 250 amp alternator XS Power D3400 Rockford Fosgate 1/0 wiring kit tons of SHCA wire That's all I can think about at the moment. Here is the headunit, and the SMD VM-1( one of my favorite things in the truck). Also what was the cigarette lighter is now a PAC LC-1. It's always funny to watch people's reactions when I'm turning what they think is the cigarette lighter and the bass gets louder. Here are the kill swiches for my system. Left to right is Mids&Highs, Sub, and then VM-1 Side shot of everything Here's a picture of the front doors with the 6.5 components in them. I'm not too particularly happy with how the doors turned out so I'll probably re-do them someday. Here's some pictures of the amps and the enclosure. The enclosure is 3.5 net cu. ft. sealed. Here is some under-the-hood shots. I know it's not particularly clean under the hood, but it's hard to keep it clean since I live in South Georgia and it's always either dry as hell or flooding rain. Probably some of the best money I've ever spent. Some more pictures of the outside, and some pictures next to my other baby. Well that's all I have for now. I'll post more pictures if I make any changes, but it's been this way for awhile so I probably wont make any changes soon. Also constructive criticism and help is always welcome, so feel free to comment and tell me if something doesn't look right or if there is a better way to do something. I won't get mad haha
  19. So last year I called up Mechman and they didn't have the specs to build an alternator for my 2014 Nissan Altima 2.5. I called recently and they will not be able to do my vehicle due to fitting issues Are there any alternatives out there or any other dealers that make one for my vehicle?
  20. so i have been looking around, maybe didnt look hard enough idk, but i cant seem to find out why with my setup im having a drop. 2004 Silverado Mechman 370 amp and voltage regulator with guage big 3 d3400 under hood d3100 in back Skar 2500 2 Fi Btl n2 at 1ohm So my voltage as far as i have read is ok to be set at 15v with these xs and i have had it this way for idk 2 years now and this issue has been this way whole time just asking the question now before i prep for the DC 10k to be put in, the issue is obviously voltage drop at idle its fine with alternator over the 1200 or 1500 rpm whatever it is but from reading other ppls setups to me seems like i should be able to run my setup full tilt without that much voltage drop. the voltage drop is enough to turn off my headunit so like below 13.5 idk my headunit doesnt like voltage too much lower than stock which is kinda good since it doesnt stay on like below 13 to really damage my stuff. So i know adding another d3100 id be set but for like 2700w 3 big batts and a 370 seems like alot, i checked my grounds they seem solid and fine its all 1/0 and hydraulic crimped so is there something wrong or does this setup seem like ya i should be dropping that much at idle because i dont want to have this problem when i add my 10k and have to have more batteries than i actually should need, and no i dont plan on running a 10k on just 2 batteries but i would like to know about how many d3100 i should need oh and system tuned with dd-1 and cc-1 headunit is pioneer DEH-x8500BS
  21. My alternator went to shit need a H.O. Alternator. Hit almost every one up and none want to make a Alternator For a 2010 Nissan Altima 2.5S. They have it for the 3.5 But its not an exact replacement already took a look at it. Does any one know a shop that would make it.
  22. Dad's mustang needs a little help. It has a junk battery in it, an outdated alternator, and the radio just quit working. Seems like a good time to put some audio equipment in it that we have laying around!!! The starting point is a 1991 5.0 Mustang LX Hatchback 5 speed. It has a 331 cubic inch stroker motor in it, 11:1 compression and AFR heads, so it should have no problem turning the 240 amp Billet alternator we will be putting on it !! System plans include: CDT 3 way components for front 6.5" mid drivers for rear fill SSA X-con 12 inch woofer in a ported box for bass Nano 5 channel amp for mids/highs Nano N3 for bass (About 2500 watts total) XS power D3400 battery MechMan 240 amp Billet hairpin alternator
  23. Showing my build of my 06 Mustang GT. Build includes performance, Suspension and Sound System. I lowered the car and installed the turbo a while ago and had to slow down unfortunately and I hadture as often as I can. Just wanting to get the original post started tonight. My photos just stored on my camera which was stolen from me so I lost them. I will continue to look for them hidden somewhere. I will upload the pic The Build includes: Turbo -76mm Turbonetics Turbo Kit at 10PSI -gt500 fuel pump -HKS blow off valve -44mm Tial Wastegate Suspension -Eibach 2" lowered Springs -Chrome Struct tower Brace -Camber adjustments -20" Chrome Aluminum Rims with 275/35 all around -Rear Lower control bars -Real shock tower bracket Sound System -2 Hifonics Brutus 2200W Amps -2 Hifonics Olympus 2412 -1 MB Quart 4125 1000W Multichannel -2 6x9 Hifonics Zues -2 6x8 Hifonics Zues -6 MB Quart PTK-40 tweeters -Stock Shaker 1000 8" Mid for now -Kicker 0 AWG Wire -kicker X RCAs (3m and 4 channel) -2 Rockford Fosgate RCAs -2 Optima Red top Batteries 50AH each -Kicker 12Gauge Speaker Wire -Mechman 270 Amp Mustang Alternator I will be editing this as often as I can get give quick links to my build and to be a quick update. As pages go on I will link them for quicker access. I don't mind people skipping around. Table of Contents: Page 1 -Gear -Pictures of my Mustang (Body, Engine and the Old system(very Old) -The beginning work to my fiberglass amp rack -Installation of Dampening Material -Installation of EQ (not finalized) Page 2 -Starting the fiberglass Box (just the first few cuts (bottom)) (Just wood for now) -Videos (BOV video with me cruising) & (Donut video before the turbo) -Replaced vacuum lines to BOV and Boost Gauge. Page 3 -Continuing on cutting of the box (sanding when needed) -Fiberglassed the pieces together to create 1 single piece -ProE (CAD) model of the box and WinISD Pro snapshot -Measured and prepped the plexiglass for cutting Page 4 -Machined the Monster Energy plexiglass -Continued to cut box (Sides and center) -Graduated and posted pictures of my engineering design project getting worked on I'll try to get one without the sun blinding
  24. I received my mechman 370 alternator today and installed, however it's charging at 19v I'm sure this is not safe and was wondering if I did anything wrong. I have big 3 all 1/0 Memphis wire. Any help would be appreciated
  25. So I just got a SAZ-1200d and to go along with it (although possibly not needed) i was going to get a high output alternator to keep it going strong even at idle. Now i was going to go ahead and probably get the 240 amp alt from mechman. I know this is obviously more than needed for this amp but in a hobby drivin by upgrades i figure it will give me some room to expand. Now the question is, as of right now my big three is in 4 gauge sky high, is it okay to use a smaller amp fuse than what the alt is rated for (until i get a bigger amp later) since the 1200d only draws ~120 amps? Thanks in advance! Greg