P4killer_

id like to see this as well. Aq3500 imo one of the best budget amps out there.. 4k around 600 bucks used. Win and win. Id love to see a dyno run.

Yea I used foam in my first trunk and it worked like crazy.. this trunk rather flat though with not many if any deep holes. More like a flat piece of flimsy metal. When you tap on iy with your hand you can hear just how flimsy it is. So there isnt really anything to fill with foam on the trunk lid. And i would like to avoid foam in the cabin asap.

I must have read that showdown site like 5 times. Ill update after ive got it sorted.

All my other cars are scrapped or sold or w.e Theres none in this car yet. Ive had peal n seal. Was ok. Fatmat ok I guess American bass stuff was actually good. Maybe one other idk. But ive looked into this for awhile ya know Alphadamp no website .. meh. The other A brand idk.. also meh Raamat seems jenky idk. I just decided like f it get the good stuff. Im hoping its like walking out into the light of salvation, that n8 is right on, second skin is the bees knees. But now, what second skin products do I buy? How much?? I wanna spend 2-300. Edit: And I just wanna know like 100% im getting good value. I value my money, and I dont really like risking it or just wasting it too much. 100 bux ok w.e 300 bucks, I wanna know exactly what im getting and what to expect exactly what to do with it to get the best results possible for my money. When I build a pc, I know exactly what my game plan is and how far I will be able to overclock given the setup timings and all. Within 1 hour of boot up inshould be into fine tuning and voltage increments the nitty gritty.

Oh lol god no. Lmao I wish. What I was saying that I cant imagine getting to a 50 with such a serious problem imo. But I have no idea how many sq ft is adequate. Or what the foam or sludge would do. Ive read about it.. but i dont want to put foam padding everywhere either as it would absorb some splage.. I have a good general knowledge of deadening. Im looking for the fecoupe knowledge of deadening if that makes sense.

Its a dumb question really, but I dont like being uncertain. Before I put together my install for the year, I need deadener BAD. The trunk sounds like a tidal wave of metal above 145db.. Ive also noticed the door are rather thin.. you can hear the stock speakers in the rear doors loud as can be just listening to Espn or something, from well outside the car. Let alone the components up front.. So trunk and doors. Maybe the headliner. With spl in mind mostly. What do I need? The foam matt stuff seems ok but wont it absorb spl? What about sludge? Of course cld, but how much?? Everyone says you dont need 100% coverage, but everyone hassss 100% coverage. I deadened in my past cars with other stuff, but trunk lid area only. This time I wanna deaden legit style. Going with some second skin. And im assuming 80 mil or gtfo.. or is 60 mil fine? Above and beyond all else, I want a 150. And I believe the serious tornado of trunk carnage greatly impeads that goal. The trunk torsion bars are already snapped from spl.. Thanks

Two sep boxes??? Is it a chambered box? If its literally two sep boxes and each like in its own lil area.. f that silliness. Build a 2 12 standard shares air box with like a 6 inch aero and be done with it. Sa's are honestly some well designed nasty little mofos... before they got to be $200 fing bux they were one of the best bang for buck subs out there. They gey plenty loud. Either you are giving em like 400w each or the design isnt ideal.

well no body knows really. thats nsv3 will likely laugh its ass off at a 3500 though. again with a bit a common sense. iirc sundown rates the nsv3 at 3500... and thier ratings are worst case scenario aka this thing will take w.e the fook you got... Not many ppl have em yet, and i know ppl waiting on parts to arrive for them to be built iirc, but there gonna put like 5k to each.. so yea a 3500 is np

cool beans post some pix when ur get to playing

Yea just back it up with decent supply. As far as half ohm goes, sundown amps are almost bullet proof. Across a few of my own installs and many others ive been around.. they might as well just rate em at .5 lol. Now that doesnt mean they wont fail, but with a little common sense i reckon itd be pretty hard to break a sundown SAZ amp at .5 That 3500 v2 im assuming will do a bit of power... so as all have said. just back er up

Dude this is the best scotch blue label right here... Always been a whiskey fan myself..at $250 I mean your likely not getting anything extraordinary. Get em one of those gift sets with the free glass inside haha. Try to find out his favorite and get that. Or a higher end version. If hes a aficionado, youd hate to get him something and hed be like omg this is noob scotch.. Dig around for some insider info ask your sister or ppl that are close to him.

I have a nvx "premium" 4 channel loc. Works 100% with my dd1.. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46219_NVX-XPLOC4.html

Thay would be for retapping it to the next size up. Should work fine..

Apparently he doesnt know how to hook em up right and didnt uses fuses.. user error is a bitch eh? Lol user error

Well that was an informative test. For the record I never said dual inputs were crap, but always wondered about the contact area. And now we have some definitive data.. which is nice. Its odd that the 1 to 1 connectors are quite a bit better. Alot more than 2w difference. In fact its more power less drop all with less current draw as well which mean higher efficiency. . Which is a big deal. With some practice you can easilly get bare wire to look perfect, but it is annoying. For my money for looks oalone its not worth it, but for the results you recorded it absolutely is. Ive been on the fringe of ordering a set of these for the longest time, but didnt wanna waste my money. I saw this thread and got excited to finally know the truth.. Thanks for the info.

Ok great looking forward to it. I appreciate your effort to run a comprehensive test.

Nope you cleared that right up. Thanks.

2w wow your right thats nothing. Imo the most important result so far. Everyone knows 2x the wire would be better. Larger conductor less resistance etc.. but more importantly, the blocks dont hurt anything. Interesting.

Oh awesome. Thanks for that knowledge. In just testing imo its important to have a control. To base any results off of. The average user would just use the inputs the amp came with. Testing gains is only relavent with respect to the reference point imo.

I see now that you were using a single 1/0 tm maker block at first. I thought you were using the dual with only one wire plugged in. My bad on that. My question still stands as to surface area. I seen lots of people using tm 1/0 to 1/0 blocks just for cleaner wire. I wonder if theres any difference vs normal.

Imo you should have did the single run WITHOUT the block. Obviously double the wire isnt in question. Double the wire is obviously better. The question imo is the reduced CONTACT AREA of using the distro block. A single bare ended wire input into a standard amp terminal will have thousands of contact points to deliver the power. By using a distro you now only have 2 points of contact going into the amp. Set screw against top of the block. Block against bottom of amp input.. So imo the test should be two fold. Does a single run without the block differ than a single run with the block? And what is the difference between normal single run and dual using the block. No one buys buys those blocks just to continue running one wire... so really that test was silly. You normally go from one single run to tm block dual runs.. which was not shown. Redo plz. Edit: grammar etc.