The real power handling of an XL

[PurfectlyInsane]

3.5kw is its power handling LIMIT.

IMO the 5k would be a good choice for a heavily played daily driver & its cheaper than 2 3.5k's & easier on electrical.

Ok I understand now. 3501watts and it will go poof.

A 5k will be easier on the subs also, and I would suggest it over two 3.5ks.

I've never understood why people always want to push their subs to there absolute limits. Usually power compression plays a big role and could possible only gain heat by adding more power without any gain in SPL.

Also, with all that heat, the time it can play full tilt is cut drastically. All for maybe a little gain of SPL. Which might not even audible.

Plus usually when running that much power to a sub that isn't exactly designed for it, needs to be ran in a smaller than optimum enclosure. Then you lose box efficenty, have greater power compression and more strain on your electrical system.

If you want a louder setup, spend more in the actual install. As it is just as or more important, than the driver.

You will usually gain more by find the perfect enclosure and ect than by adding power. And unless your after every tenth of SPL, it could possible not even make a "real" difference.

[PurfectlyInsane]

Well I wont advice anyone to do something beyond there experience level, BUT 3500 of clean power WONT burn up a coil on a XL. I have seen a few fail and it WASNT the coils. Evertime we have had on fail always has been a ripped spider or suspension component. So you just need to know the limits or your equipment.

Was this done at 60hz or above? Usually not much Xmax at that high of frequency, so no worries of suspension failure.

I have doubts the XL will take that much power for any real long lengths of time.

I'm not in ANYWAY cutting down the sub, but just stating that's a ton of heat with no real way of keeping it cool. Like you said, if you have that much power and the suspension is moving(therefore moving air to semi cool) it could possibly have problems.

But in a situation where theres not a lot of excursion, therefore no air flowing, could the coil handle and dispute that much heat?

Like I said in ANYWAY saying anything bad about DC or the XL. Do I need to repeat this again?

Also, on the note, 98% of the people hear know what they are doing. Well, its not that. Its the people who don't post a lot, or ask any questions that could read the first page of this thread and think the XL will be perfectly fine on 3500RMS.

I'm not even sure the 98% could pull that off without breaking something.

I've seen people who I thought wasn't total dumbass's, really screw up some shit because they didn't have any real experience.

People as a whole are dumb, and assuming they understand what's going on will usually turn around and bite you in the ass.

[Swaggasaur]

i feel like this is one of those threads that if you have to ask...you shouldn't do it.

Well I know what it would take to supply clean power, and that XL can take well over rated.

But I wanted opinions before I spend extra money or waste money on something not needed.

[corona_jeff]

Well I wont advice anyone to do something beyond there experience level, BUT 3500 of clean power WONT burn up a coil on a XL. I have seen a few fail and it WASNT the coils. Evertime we have had on fail always has been a ripped spider or suspension component. So you just need to know the limits or your equipment.

Was this done at 60hz or above? Usually not much Xmax at that high of frequency, so no worries of suspension failure.

I have doubts the XL will take that much power for any real long lengths of time.

I'm not in ANYWAY cutting down the sub, but just stating that's a ton of heat with no real way of keeping it cool. Like you said, if you have that much power and the suspension is moving(therefore moving air to semi cool) it could possibly have problems.

But in a situation where theres not a lot of excursion, therefore no air flowing, could the coil handle and dispute that much heat?

Like I said in ANYWAY saying anything bad about DC or the XL. Do I need to repeat this again?

Also, on the note, 98% of the people hear know what they are doing. Well, its not that. Its the people who don't post a lot, or ask any questions that could read the first page of this thread and think the XL will be perfectly fine on 3500RMS.

I'm not even sure the 98% could pull that off without breaking something.

I've seen people who I thought wasn't total dumbass's, really screw up some shit because they didn't have any real experience.

People as a whole are dumb, and assuming they understand what's going on will usually turn around and bite you in the ass.

Well I cant tell you this much, All of our tests are not 1 note wonder burp boxes. If you much know All of our max power tests have been done in the 38-43hz range as to thats where my truck is peaking at. Everyone "talks" about cooling. After 30 plus minutes of full tilt music I have now issues nor do they smell. After about 45-55 min mark they start to get sticky just slightly. But I can assure you Im well over twice rated power daily, and have used the same subs for months.

[PurfectlyInsane]

But with your test unless you list every detail, there could possibly be a million variables.

Did you have a clamp and oscope the whole time, to make sure the same power as supplied?

Also, box size, tuning, abient air tempature could play effect.

Excursion, frequency, and impedance.

The list goes on and on. Its not that I'm saying your test was invalid,just its possible the results aren't universal. And really can't be look at a real test for everybody.

Honestly, if this sub can handle 3500rms for 30 mins, it should be almost impossible to break one at rated RMS. Which I'm sure people have before.

Like I said, this really doesn't have nothing to do with the sub in question. Just to make sure the wrong people don't misread the info.

Edited April 2, 2011 by PurfectlyInsane

[kr15]

Was this done at 60hz or above? Usually not much Xmax at that high of frequency, so no worries of suspension failure.

I have doubts the XL will take that much power for any real long lengths of time.

my teammate is running 2 ddm4s strapped at .35 a piece..He clamped 12k out of them and is running it on 4 XL 18s, this is his daily driver and it PEAKS at 38hz..3k a piece CLAMPED in a daily driver that is tuned in the area of 33-35hz...Im not a huge fan of DC, I am simply stating what I have actually seen

[StreetSlappah]

Ehhh

[corona_jeff]

But with your test unless you list every detail, there could possibly be a million variables.

Did you have a clamp and oscope the whole time, to make sure the same power as supplied?

Also, box size, tuning, abient air tempature could play effect.

Excursion, frequency, and impedance.

The list goes on and on. Its not that I'm saying your test was invalid,just its possible the results aren't universal. And really can't be look at a real test for everybody.

Honestly, if this sub can handle 3500rms for 3 mins, it should be almost impossible to break one at rated RMS. Which I'm sure people have before.

Like I said, this really doesn't have nothing to do with the sub in question. Just to make sure the wrong people don't misread the info.

I really dont care what someone says. Most people dont have a clue what there doing when they start asking limits of any woofer a question. The very best just try for themselves. I know im at 95% maxed out with the current power. And thats the only person that matters to me. Ive seen people smoke XLs and LVL 5's on 1500watts..But its not a sub failure more users being dumbasses. Alway easier to blame the company from there stupidity.

[Watch the bass]

I completely agree with you, don't take it wrong. But 98% of the people here actually know what they're are doing. These people aren't best buy customers. But you're right, I deal with alot of idiots that tell me that they blew their 600 watt subs with a Sony 1000 watt, so the Sony must put out like 2000. It's sad to hear stuff like that, but it happens. And when people like that blow stuff, they expect their subs/amps to be fully warrantied.

"But 98 % of the people here actually know what they´re are doing"

Sure?????

Click the memberbar and have a look, sides on sides of members with no or not more than 5 posts. I think SMD are a group of vew 100 permanent active Members, than you have the group of members who join if there have a need to SMD and old freaks. But alot of

Members are people who have sawn a vid from steve, having a intrest but less and no knowledge on carhifi and no posts. And the absolut most of the 34000 are nominal members.

Edited April 2, 2011 by Watch the bass

[corona_jeff]

I completely agree with you, don't take it wrong. But 98% of the people here actually know what they're are doing. These people aren't best buy customers. But you're right, I deal with alot of idiots that tell me that they blew their 600 watt subs with a Sony 1000 watt, so the Sony must put out like 2000. It's sad to hear stuff like that, but it happens. And when people like that blow stuff, they expect their subs/amps to be fully warrantied.

"But 98 % of the people here actually know what they´re are doing"

Sure?????

Click the memberbar and have a look, sides on sides of members with no or not more than 5 posts. I think on SMD are a group of vew 100 permanent active Members, than you have the group of members who join if there have a need to SMD and old freaks. But alot of

Members are people who have sawn a vid from steve, having a intrest but less and no knowledge on carhifi and no posts. And the absolut most of the 34000 are nominal members.

Sorry that was a typo 98% DO NOT KNOW WHAT THERE DOING, is what I meant to say.