speedball1978 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 its not based on wattage, its all based on current draw, 400 watts would draw about 35 to 40 amps...if he has a lets say 70 to 80 amp alternator, then i can see voltage drop because it might only put out 50 to 65 actual amps... plus the reserve the stock battery has.. which probably isn't much...so yes it could happen and no it might not. It does depend on what he has under the hood... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94retta(219) Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Hey thank you for inlighting me! I had no idea it had to do with amps. It also has to do with how much the car it self is pulling. Some cars you turn the headlights off and the alt is only putting out half of what it can. Lota possibilities. its not based on wattage, its all based on current draw, 400 watts would draw about 35 to 40 amps...if he has a lets say 70 to 80 amp alternator, then i can see voltage drop because it might only put out 50 to 65 actual amps... plus the reserve the stock battery has.. which probably isn't much...so yes it could happen and no it might not. It does depend on what he has under the hood... Quote BUILD LOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 lol, his eyes are set on the DC Level 2. but hes looking for other options. SA-15 or the T3 T300 or T600. Quote Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 lol, his eyes are set on the DC Level 2. but hes looking for other options. SA-15 or the T3 T300 or T600. Haha These would be good choices. I would personally run an Ascendant Audio Assassin or Arsenal though. Nick definitely knows his shit, but so do Jacob and Ed Quote On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumonskateboard6 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 I think that the price difference between a LVL2 and LVL3 is only like $30 bucks so I'd go with the LVL3...at least that's what I heard the last time I got a price sheet Quote Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photochrisb931 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 (edited) I am fan of the Treo engineering TE's. They handle 500W RMS. I pounded mine for about two years. My commute to work is 1 hr each way and i listen to my music a little over half volume they held up sounded clean and put out great low end on digital bass. I pulled them out to reduce size of my system not because they were worn out. The DC's are great no question just offering my personal experience with another make. Edited April 15, 2011 by photochrisb931 Quote Barstad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 could get an atomic Quantum 15 Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeepItLow91 Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Thanks for all the replys, I'll clear up some blank spots for those who have questions. Don't be hatin' but I have a 2006 Kia Spectre, got it for $2500 from my mom and with the gas prices and shit I couldn't turn down that offer. Idk what alternator it has but I already replaced the stock battery (it was 5 years old and kept dying on my current 300 watt system). I don't have a big 3 or anything and I doubt an aftermarket alt would fit in my small ass car. Also, I had my eyes set on the DC level 2 because of its low rms, cheap price, and it has a very reliable company name behind it. What I was asking for in short is a good 15" sub that can handle full tilt everyday (after break-in period) and run hard on under 600 rms. What I'm mainly looking for is some beast ass lows, I download stuff like Decaf and then slow it down ever further. My comment about getting one 15 or two 12's is because I don't know which of the two would produce deeper/stronger low end in my 4cu f max enclosure size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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