onebadmonte Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Product: 99+ GM Fullsize Quad Alternator Bracket Manufactured by: Tejcurrent Purchased/recieved from: Tejcurrent on Sound Solutions Audio forum These are my thoughts on my trials and tribulations installing the tejcurrent quad alt bracket. My ride, a 2004 Chevy Suburban 1500 4x4 with a 5.3l V8 This is what comes in the box. The hardware is good quality stuff. The bracket is nicely finished. The instructions are of the standard issue variety with some nice color pics. Lets get to the installation. I read over the instructions a couple of times just to get familiar with the installation process. At the same time I checked the hardware against the instructions to make sure I got everything needed. A packing list would have been nice. There were a couple of typos. This one was a little concerning. The instructions call out for 100mm bolts to mount the alternators, but 90mm bolts were included. The 90mm bolts work, so no biggie, but still should be addressed by the manufacturer. Right off the bat the bracket didn't fit. I removed only what the instructions indicated to remove, and pre-assembled the bracket/alternator assembly as required. When it came to placing the assembly in the vehicle, disaster. The vehicle ECU interfered with the lower alternator. From here on out I was on my own. o_o Here's what I did, hope this helps you. First I removed the fan shroud and the cooling fan. I took out the battery and battery tray. From there I unmounted the vehicle ECU and temporarily located it to where the battery mounts. With the wiring pushed back towards the firewall I tried once again to get the assembly in place. No dice, something wasn't lining up. I removed the power steering pulley. I unbolted the power steering pump from the factory alternator/power steering bracket. Not to worry, the power steering pump is still held in place by a steel bracket on the backside attaching it to the engine block. I proceeded to remove the factory alternator/power steering pump bracket from the engine. With the factory bracket out of the vehicle I'm able to take some measurements and see what the deal is with this mofo not fitting. :\ Here is the bracket I removed. Giving the bracket the evil eye I could not tell if the bosses that the quad alt bracket mounts on are of equal height. I ran the mounting bolts the quad alt bracket came with through the backside of the factory alternator/power steering bracket. With the bolts protruding through, I am now able to measure how much of the bolt extends beyond the boss. If they all measure the same, the bosses are of equal height. Here is how I measured. If you're like WTF, a wooden school ruler? Let me explain. I am going to get this bracket going with the bare minimum. No fancy depth gages, digital micrometers, or CNC mills. Just real simple, real basic tools, and tons of manual labor. See what I do, learn from what I do. If you got fancy tools, have at it your way. If you don't have any tools, and have no clue, here is one way to skin this cat. Back to the measurement. I got 3.5cm for all three mounting bosses. Cool, they're all the same height. Now to get a quick measurement from the boss to the face of the factory alternator/power steering bracket. Here I get about 1.5cm. If your wondering about that little bit I missing since zero on the ruler isn't on the edge. I consider that bit a constant. Since I will be taking all my measurements with this ruler it's not going to throw anything off. Obviously the numbers I am using are not absolute, but they are consistent. That's all I really need, consistent numbers. Now onto the quad alt bracket. Since the bosses on the factory bracket are recessed from the face, the quad alt bracket has three spacers welded on to the back side. In theory, these spacers put the backside of the quad alt bracket in-front of the face of the factory alternator/power steering bracket. Let's see what my little ruler says. 1.4cm is what I got for all three spacers. That's a difference of 1cm, about a washers thickness. Therefore I'm going to have to put a washer at each mounting location. No fun, I can hear the washer falling off the bolt as I try to line everything up. Now that we have that out of the way let's see how everything lines up, or doesn't. With the bolts still in through the backside of the factory bracket I added the necessary washers, and then installed the quad alt bracket. This is what I got. Two thing here are wrong. First, the hole in the quad alt bracket inside the yellow circle is noted in the instructions as being 1" in diameter. It measures 5/8". Secondly, that same hole should be lined up with the hole behind it on the factory bracket, not overlapping it. There is a steel bushing in the factory bracket that interferes with quad alt bracket because of this hole being undersized and in the wrong location. The simple fix would be to remove the steel bushing, but there is more to it than just that. Take a look at this. The steel bushing in the factory bracket is in a raised boss. This raised boss and the ridge next to it are keeping the quad alt bracket from properly seating on it's mounting bosses. Here is a better look at the offending boss on the factory bracket. First things first, out with the steel bushing. Here's what I used. Now to remove the offending boss and the little ridge next to it. Check this out. I basically took a knee, putting all my weight on the foot over the bracket. Then I took a file and with both hands, filed away till the bish was flat. Let's take a look at how everything lines up now. Looking good now. Now just to get the setup to fit in the vehicle. Here is a shot of the vehicle ECU and it's mounting location. For reference the top of the pic is the front of the vehicle. Hit the limit on allowed pics. To be continued. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmonte Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Part two. Rivenuts to the rescue. I moved the vehicle ECU about three inches forward in vehicle. Here is the vehicle ECU in it's new location with the battery tray in place The next area of concern is the factory power distribution box. It is mounted onto the factory alternator/power steering bracket, in the exact location that the quad alt bracket mounts the lower alternator. Here is the little booger in it's original location. The instructions mention nothing about relocating this little booger, but obviously something has to be done. I took a closer look at the pics in the instructions and noticed that it is still used, just in a modified position. With nothing else to go by but just a pic and my ingenuity, this is what I came up with. I added a new pair of mounting holes and gave it a slight bend to keep it from hitting the valve cover. Another shot with the alternator in place. Alright, now we're in business. Time to test fit the assembly in the vehicle. The bracket went on, getting the washers in place over the bosses were a pain. A quick visual inspection revealed this. The return line from the hydro-boost braking system to the power steering pump reservoir was being pinched by the lower alternator bracket. Fhawk! This is going to be a real bish to fix. First off I removed the drivers side inner fender, just to get a better view of the area in question. Here is a close-up of the main offender. This is a very delicate fix. I am going to bend the fitting straight. o_o True to my word, only simple tools. My main concern is cracking the fitting where it meets the reservoir. I did my best to support the fitting where it meets the reservoir. I used the biggest hex key I could fit in the fitting and slowly bent the fitting straight a little bend at a time. I re-installed everything back in for the umpth-teen time. This is what I ended up with regarding the hydro-boost braking system return line. Finally, the bish is on. That belt didn't go on without a fight. Now that's it on, concerns still linger. Here is a pic of the belt tensioner with the factory accessory driver system. The marks are there for reference. Here is the tensioner with the new setup. The belt is tremendously long, so I'm not sure how much if any this belt will stretch. All I can say is that the tensioner is fully compressed. Unfortunately, the instructions do not mention what the alternator pulley diameters were used when this bracket was developed. My alternators have undersized pulleys, as my high output alternators do. :\ The bish is on. Final thoughts: The bracket kind of works, the instruction manual sux. Good luck, I'm out. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swaggasaur Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Damn dude. Seems like a shtt load of work. You did hell of a good job. BHE Wall Build TEAM DC Audio TEAM XS POWER1986 Monte Carlo KMC Nova's 20"4 DC XL's W/ PSI Recones2 DC 5k'sPioneer PRS 8010 Audio Technix 6 XS Power D3100's 1 XS Power D3400 Mechman 220a Alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ugpbmx Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 good job getting it to work man. im very interested on what tejcerrent has to say MY TRUCK BUILD - 1976 F-100 Ranger. Fully built 482 big block, 4 DC lvl4 15's in a blowthrough, plenty of custom fabrication. MY HATCH BUILD - 1993 Honda Civic DX Hatchback . Clean daily driver, dropped, subtle customization. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siccostyle Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Damn that is a-lot of work. Nice job though 01 2dr ExploderBuild log2 18" DC Level 6's (M3's)DC 10k5 XS d3100's, DC 390 alt100' shok ofc cable Team ShokTEAM SUB SONIC ADDICTION Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunkie Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Instruction manuals always suck...Just sayin. 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmonte Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Damn dude. Seems like a shtt load of work. You did hell of a good job. It was, I'm still tired. good job getting it to work man. im very interested on what tejcerrent has to say Thanks. As for you're second statement Damn that is a-lot of work. Nice job though I figured I better share my experience before someone else takes the plunge thinking this is a simple solution. Instruction manuals always suck...Just sayin. Not if you want your business to succeed... Just sayin. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byers319 Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Might as well just made the damn bracket your self while you were at it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmonte Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Might as well just made the damn bracket your self while you were at it Somebody feels my pain. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsktim Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 how long did you have to wait to get your bracket and good job on making that piece of metal work Only DC Dealer In Alaska Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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