STEvil Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 drywall screws are my fav, easy to pre-drill and countersink and they're cheap. Use more screws. I dont use nails at all. Quote MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 1&1/4" wood screws normally work fine in 3/4 MDF. Predrill prior to screwing. (thats what she said) I have used liquid nails several times. Just make sure to let it cure/dry COMPLETELY before you fire your subs up. (Atleast let it sit overnight, if not for a day or two). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3nOSlaPP Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 i use 1 1/2 inch drywall screws and titebond III is what i use and ive never had a problem Quote Vehicle: 2017 Chevrolet Silverado High Country Electrical: 320A Singer Alt, (2) Limitless Lithium 15ah, Full Throttle FT680-48 Speakers: Stevens Audio SA 6 (ACTIVE), Audio Designs 3” Subwoofer: (4) B2 Audio XM 8’s Amplifiers: (2) B2 Audio Rage 2500.1, (1) B2 Audio Rage 1200.6 Processors: NavTv M650 (integration), Helix DSP Pro MK2 Silverado Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheyDontWantMusic Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 glue some 45 degree bracing into the corners, using wood glue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Also, when you pre-drill make sure you are using the right drill bit. You want to leave engouh meat in the hole for the srew to have something to grab onto. What i do is us a drill bit that is approx. the size of the center solid part of the screw shaft. so..hold the screw behind the bit and you should see the threads on both sides; bit behind the screw and you may see the very edge of the bit. Hope you understand what Im trying to exaplain, would be much simpler if i had a visual aid. Quote CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 The best way is just like theydontwantmusic said. If your joints are tight you can use wood glue and clamps to build a box with no screws/nails. Titebond wood glue will bond stronger than MDF is itself. Then just use a cheap squeeze tube of caulking to seal the inside seams. But then again, the first few enclosures I built I used fine thread sheetrock screws in predrilled holes, then sealed it up with caulk and no glue. Those boxes held up well (I only put 10w1s in them not like I was stressing it at all) and I know 2 of them are still being used 14 years later. Once you build a few you'll find the glue only technique works well. Quote 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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