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The title just popped into my head, so when should I nut up my subs? How heavy must a sub be before you t-nut it into your enclosure?

My Current Project: 2006 Ford Focus ST

HU: Kenwood KDC-X986

Amps: Rockford Fosgate R300-4

Hifonics Brutus BXi 1601D

Sub(s): (2) Skar VVX8 want to add 2x

Mids/Highs: VXI65 components (front doors), RE Pro 5x7FR (rear doors)

Wiring: Big 3 done in Candace 1/0 awg.

1 run from battery to distro-block 1/0 awg. Cadance wire

4 awg Stinger wire from distro-block to amps.

Electrical: stock alt.

Optima Red Top.

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well so far I have mounted a 80 pound subwoofer with dry wall screws mounted vertically and no problems

mcintoshsigz.png

previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

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^this

It's always a good idea to nut up. Every time you have to remove your subs you're loosening up the holes if you're using sheetrock or deck screws. You can remount a sub or change out subs hundreds of times if you use t-nuts.

Another time to nut is just after you pull out. :good:

2007 Pacifica
Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud.

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I like to make sure my girl nuts before me. She's much better with tools, and she won't mess up my subwoofers when using t-nuts. She's good at nutting, I'm good at screwing. I like to use 1 5/8" drywall screws, the work nicely.

Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks :)

Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012.

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I like to make sure my girl nuts before me. She's much better with tools, and she won't mess up my subwoofers when using t-nuts. She's good at nutting, I'm good at screwing. I like to use 1 5/8" drywall screws, the work nicely.

That was awesome. :drink40:

2 polk audio 4x6'skenwood head-unit 220 amp Mechman alt1979 Corvette

2003 corvette z06

alpine radio and the bose system that came stock

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