Supplies Needed For Box Build

[Jmoney2544]

I Just got the wood in and planning on starting constructing in a few days. I was going to run up to home depot to get some supplies, but not sure all what to get.

Im going to paint the box black, do i need any special kind of paint? (3/4 MDF)

What should i use for the terminals on the box?

What's everything i'm going to need?

Edited June 7, 2011 by Jmoney2544

[cubs_fan0718]

I use Rustoleum Stone Accent Paint, when i use regular paint it justs sucks it up and looks like crap, i usually do throw some primer down first though. I also only use 1 1/4in screws pree drilled of course and also set into the wood. i use 5/16 nuts bolts and washers for my box terminals about 2-2 1/2 in long

Basically

Screws

Glue (titebond 2 or Gorrila wood glue)

Some type of caulk for the inside i use something called Lexel

And ur terminals.

[Brandonrcm]

For terminals just run the wire straight from the sub and drill a hole in the box and have the wire coming out of that.

[Louisiana Bass]

If you want the box to come out with a really smooth, good looking paint job, you can resin the outside and apply a little bodyfiller, then sand to perfection and paint.

[greatblack]

I Just got the wood in and planning on starting constructing in a few days. I was going to run up to home depot to get some supplies, but not sure all what to get.

Im going to paint the box black, do i need any special kind of paint? (3/4 MDF)

What should i use for the terminals on the box?

What's everything i'm going to need?

clamps. corner clamps help too. but defiantly clamps.

[727Designs]

Clamps

Titebond II for sure. I buy it buy the gallon.

1 5/8 course thread drywall screws

I use 3/8" lag bolts double nut the wire to the inside, drill a 3/8 hole, slide it through till the nut hits the box, tighten a nut on the outside then jam another one down when you put your wire on it. Seals air tight, and gets a good connection.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS predill your holes, I like to countersink mine as well but I wouldn't consider it a requirement.

MDF is notorious for sucking up any type of paint, I use a cheap grey primer for 2-3 coats before I lay down anything else. Also I like to use an orbital sander to make all seams perfectly flush, then use woodfiller on all seams, and on all the screw holes so that once it's painted none of it shows through the paint.

A Jasper Jig and a router will make life MUCH easier when it comes time to cut out your baffles. If not just take your time with a jigsaw and then clean up any uneven areas after.

I use cheap DAP brand clear silicone in all the seams, everyone has their own opinion on what works best but it's never treated me wrong.

Also if it's going to be big enough it wouldn't hurt to brace it. I like using some 1" dowel rods or something of the sort, 2/4's work, 1x2's, whatever you have readily available. Double baffle may also be necessary to add some strength, plus then you can flush mount your subs which looks great.

Take your time, don't rush, don't cut corners. It will turn out as something you can be proud of in the end.

[BJD3]

Clamps

Titebond II for sure. I buy it buy the gallon.

1 5/8 course thread drywall screws

I use 3/8" lag bolts double nut the wire to the inside, drill a 3/8 hole, slide it through till the nut hits the box, tighten a nut on the outside then jam another one down when you put your wire on it. Seals air tight, and gets a good connection.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS predill your holes, I like to countersink mine as well but I wouldn't consider it a requirement.

MDF is notorious for sucking up any type of paint, I use a cheap grey primer for 2-3 coats before I lay down anything else. Also I like to use an orbital sander to make all seams perfectly flush, then use woodfiller on all seams, and on all the screw holes so that once it's painted none of it shows through the paint.

A Jasper Jig and a router will make life MUCH easier when it comes time to cut out your baffles. If not just take your time with a jigsaw and then clean up any uneven areas after.

I use cheap DAP brand clear silicone in all the seams, everyone has their own opinion on what works best but it's never treated me wrong.

Also if it's going to be big enough it wouldn't hurt to brace it. I like using some 1" dowel rods or something of the sort, 2/4's work, 1x2's, whatever you have readily available. Double baffle may also be necessary to add some strength, plus then you can flush mount your subs which looks great.

Take your time, don't rush, don't cut corners. It will turn out as something you can be proud of in the end.

All good advice in my very limited experience.

After you get a bit of experience under your belt, it becomes MUCH easier. IMO, the hardest part is cutting wood.

Then again, I use a circular saw.

[flashlight_65]

dont forget patience and a little sweat

[727Designs]

Clamps

Titebond II for sure. I buy it buy the gallon.

1 5/8 course thread drywall screws

I use 3/8" lag bolts double nut the wire to the inside, drill a 3/8 hole, slide it through till the nut hits the box, tighten a nut on the outside then jam another one down when you put your wire on it. Seals air tight, and gets a good connection.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS predill your holes, I like to countersink mine as well but I wouldn't consider it a requirement.

MDF is notorious for sucking up any type of paint, I use a cheap grey primer for 2-3 coats before I lay down anything else. Also I like to use an orbital sander to make all seams perfectly flush, then use woodfiller on all seams, and on all the screw holes so that once it's painted none of it shows through the paint.

A Jasper Jig and a router will make life MUCH easier when it comes time to cut out your baffles. If not just take your time with a jigsaw and then clean up any uneven areas after.

I use cheap DAP brand clear silicone in all the seams, everyone has their own opinion on what works best but it's never treated me wrong.

Also if it's going to be big enough it wouldn't hurt to brace it. I like using some 1" dowel rods or something of the sort, 2/4's work, 1x2's, whatever you have readily available. Double baffle may also be necessary to add some strength, plus then you can flush mount your subs which looks great.

Take your time, don't rush, don't cut corners. It will turn out as something you can be proud of in the end.

All good advice in my very limited experience.

After you get a bit of experience under your belt, it becomes MUCH easier. IMO, the hardest part is cutting wood.

Then again, I use a circular saw.

I bought a 49" straight piece of 1/4" thick aluminum, clamp it with a c clamp on both ends, set my circular saw against and cut. Instant straight cuts for dirt cheap if you don't have access to anything better. Just measure the width from the blade to the short side of the guard and add/subtract that accordingly to get your cut where you want it.

[mothra]

instead of clear silicone I use a colored silicone, usually black or bronze, so I can spots that didn't make a good seal. also I never pre-drill my holes, I use Spax hardwood screws, no need to pre-drill or countersink as the screw does it for you.