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Dude just make sure it's clean power and the obsidians will do fine, I have two oa's on a bc2000 and they do fine man. With the electrical a big batt under the hood, big 3, and if needed a little batt in the back should be plenty.

so far...

HU- pioneer DEH-P59001B

Amp- crescendo BC2000D

Wire- 1/0 awg welding lead

Electric- Big 3 ^same wire

Subs- 2 Obsidian Audio 12 d4's

Box 4ft^3 ported at 33hz. designed by Ram-Designs

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I don' understand why people are so quick to throw in batteries and call it proper electrical. A back battery bank is there for extra power that your car's electrical isn't capable of producing. BUT, IMO you should always upgrade the electrical first. The very first thing should be the Big 3. Then, you should go with a H/O alt. And then, if you are still experiencing voltage drop, then you should add a back bank of batteries. Not saying this is the way it is supposed to be done, and that the rest of you are idiots for not doing it...please don't read into this too deep. I just personally feel this is the best way to do it.

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I don' understand why people are so quick to throw in batteries and call it proper electrical. A back battery bank is there for extra power that your car's electrical isn't capable of producing. BUT, IMO you should always upgrade the electrical first. The very first thing should be the Big 3. Then, you should go with a H/O alt. And then, if you are still experiencing voltage drop, then you should add a back bank of batteries. Not saying this is the way it is supposed to be done, and that the rest of you are idiots for not doing it...please don't read into this too deep. I just personally feel this is the best way to do it.

Following that logic, if you have voltage drop after the first alt upgrade, you should then go for dual alts.

Is adding a battery bank a band-aid? Sure. But when you only have a small cut, you don't really need a huge piece of gauze.

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

Stinger Roadkill Expert

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Following that logic, if you have voltage drop after the first alt upgrade, you should then go for dual alts.

Is adding a battery bank a band-aid? Sure. But when you only have a small cut, you don't really need a huge piece of gauze.

I knew that was gonna come up. I do get where you are coming from, and to be honest it does require common sense. Like you said, if you have a small cut, then just use a band-aid...but I personally feel you should add an alt. before you do any banking. If you up your alt, and you still have some drop, then yeah, add some batts. No need for duals when you have a small drop...but here's my thing. 90% of people on here never do a build, and keep it that way. We all upgrade to bigger/better stuff after some time. So why spend money on 2 extra batts now, then later on a bigger build have to buy a bigger alt, when for about the same $ you can go ahead and get a better alt that will suffice not only the build he has now, but also more power for later down the road.

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Also, battery banking wastes space. If you NEED a bank, then tech. its not wasted space, but if you can get it done w/ an alt, then that leaves more space for a build.

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Now lets ask what for electrical upgrades will you be doing?

idek :/ a yellow top batt in front, a batt in back if needed idk whhat size, big 3, 0awg power/ground... ima noob

Personally I'd be doing a H/O alt, big 3 in 0 awg, and stick with your yellowtop and go from there.

On a 200A+ alternator and just a single yellowtop my AQ2200 does a fine job. I rarely ever see my voltage go under 13.2 when bumping. And I generally have around 14-14.5V

Why should he spend another 3-400 on a HO alt when all he needs is one decent sized batt?

Stick with the yellowtop and get another for the back If you already have the 1st yellowtop. If not, just try to fit the biggest XS or Kinetik batt under the hood. My stock alt is 118 amps, and with running just my XS D3400 under hood and big 3, my voltage never went under 12.8 running my DC 2k at idle, same goes for running my Crescendo BC2000

12.8/12.6 is resting voltage of the battery....to have decent electrical, you should NEVER get to the resting voltage...

but you and your brother seem to be the electrical experts...

edit

also if you didnt know, its hard as fuck to get past 12.6 on batts, you would have to be drawing a fuck ton of power

but you knew this right?

The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log

Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube

Team DC Audio

where theres a will theres a wall.......

I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones

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:facepalm: Why do these type of threads always end in arguments? Why can't we just post opinionated answers that the OP asked for w/ out someone contradicting them? Everyone is right...we all do it differently.

mivtCK.png

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Now lets ask what for electrical upgrades will you be doing?

idek :/ a yellow top batt in front, a batt in back if needed idk whhat size, big 3, 0awg power/ground... ima noob

Personally I'd be doing a H/O alt, big 3 in 0 awg, and stick with your yellowtop and go from there.

On a 200A+ alternator and just a single yellowtop my AQ2200 does a fine job. I rarely ever see my voltage go under 13.2 when bumping. And I generally have around 14-14.5V

Why should he spend another 3-400 on a HO alt when all he needs is one decent sized batt?

Stick with the yellowtop and get another for the back If you already have the 1st yellowtop. If not, just try to fit the biggest XS or Kinetik batt under the hood. My stock alt is 118 amps, and with running just my XS D3400 under hood and big 3, my voltage never went under 12.8 running my DC 2k at idle, same goes for running my Crescendo BC2000

12.8/12.6 is resting voltage of the battery....to have decent electrical, you should NEVER get to the resting voltage...

but you and your brother seem to be the electrical experts...

Oh great, another person to jump on my case. I don't know what the fuck I have done recently to rub everyone the wrong way...

Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks :)

Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012.

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Following that logic, if you have voltage drop after the first alt upgrade, you should then go for dual alts.

Is adding a battery bank a band-aid? Sure. But when you only have a small cut, you don't really need a huge piece of gauze.

I knew that was gonna come up. I do get where you are coming from, and to be honest it does require common sense. Like you said, if you have a small cut, then just use a band-aid...but I personally feel you should add an alt. before you do any banking. If you up your alt, and you still have some drop, then yeah, add some batts. No need for duals when you have a small drop...but here's my thing. 90% of people on here never do a build, and keep it that way. We all upgrade to bigger/better stuff after some time. So why spend money on 2 extra batts now, then later on a bigger build have to buy a bigger alt, when for about the same $ you can go ahead and get a better alt that will suffice not only the build he has now, but also more power for later down the road.

#devilsadvocate. hehehe

I'll grant you that one, but by the same token, when I upgrade later on, I can still carry over the batteries I was using before.

Isn't an AGM battery a recommended upgrade when you get a H/O alt?

EDIT: Arguing is how valuable information gets posted. Hopefully I'll be wrong about something and someone can correct me.

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

Stinger Roadkill Expert

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