Do I need a capacitor?

[infamous360]

capacitors do more harm than good.

do the big 3 upgrade first and if that doesn't help get a small XS battery for the trunk or a big XS battery for the front in place of the stock battery

[doug118]

Depend on the V8. I know the carb'd 350 engines have ~80amp alt. Get HIDs. Problem solved

[jeyrapboy]

Depend on the V8. I know the carb'd 350 engines have ~80amp alt. Get HIDs. Problem solved

not really... my hid's dimmed slightly before my big 3

[RevoTivo44]

Get hid that's funny but not a solution to the problem. As stated b4 do the big 3 and if that doesn't help upgrade ur battery or get a secondary battery but make sure they are the same type of battery don't mix and match

[GTOguy]

Thank's you all I'm going to think a little bit about what I will do next. But why other than not having great guys like you all to ask would people install a capacitor instead of doing one of the options you all suggested?

[Tek]

No, a small secondary battery would do much more for you then a capacitor ever could.

Look into the smaller XS Power or Kinetik batteries.

Ya...like dim his lights more. The alternator has to run the car and maintain the battery. Typically, batteries draw about about 7A of current and need 13v< to charge. The flickering lights means the alternator cannot keep up and the voltage is stepping down to the battery. In case you don't know; a battery is around 12.5v and the alternator produces around 14v. When the voltage dips b/c of current demand, you're running off the battery.

I don't care if you have a stock battery or 15 aftermarket batteries; the lights are still going to dim.

...

To fix this issue, I'd like to know more about the OP's system and vehicle. In normal daily drivers (<1kW), a "Big 3" upgrade is a waste of time and money. A 4ga run that's <3' can carry A LOT of current with minimal voltage loss. Spending who knows how much on 1/0, connectors, loom, and a few hours doesn't make much sense if you're going to gain .1v at the back of the car. Likewise, it's probably a bad idea to toss HO alternators and whatnot at the car if the problem can be fixed by finding a better grounding point and/or turning down the gains a bit. Hell, a good cap will probably fix the problem but I'd prefer a "free" solution...wouldn't you?

A big 3 upgrade can help voltage by up to 20%. there are some of the most knowledgeable people in car audio on this board, do you really think that the big 3 would be such a popular recommendation if it showed minimal results? Im not trying to be a dick but its a proven way to help voltage drop.

[BassJunkie]

Thank's you all I'm going to think a little bit about what I will do next. But why other than not having great guys like you all to ask would people install a capacitor instead of doing one of the options you all suggested?

In my opinion.... Because of chainstores like bestbuy, circuit city, and walmart. Consumers who shop at these places don't have the knowledge to fix issues/install on their own stereo so they listen to whoever sells them their stuff to get their knowledge. Most of those sales people work on commision, they'll bullshit from the moment you walk in the door in order to get a few extra dollars on their paycheck. Dude at bestbuy tells a person that a capacitor is exactly what they need to stop headlights dimming, that person tells another person, and so on. Plus capacitors are flashy, contain led's and voltage meters sometimes and for some reason every 16 year old wants one cause its 'cool'. Just my opinion though.

[n8ball2013]

No, a small secondary battery would do much more for you then a capacitor ever could.

Look into the smaller XS Power or Kinetik batteries.

Ya...like dim his lights more. The alternator has to run the car and maintain the battery. Typically, batteries draw about about 7A of current and need 13v< to charge. The flickering lights means the alternator cannot keep up and the voltage is stepping down to the battery. In case you don't know; a battery is around 12.5v and the alternator produces around 14v. When the voltage dips b/c of current demand, you're running off the battery.

I don't care if you have a stock battery or 15 aftermarket batteries; the lights are still going to dim.

...

To fix this issue, I'd like to know more about the OP's system and vehicle. In normal daily drivers (<1kW), a "Big 3" upgrade is a waste of time and money. A 4ga run that's <3' can carry A LOT of current with minimal voltage loss. Spending who knows how much on 1/0, connectors, loom, and a few hours doesn't make much sense if you're going to gain .1v at the back of the car. Likewise, it's probably a bad idea to toss HO alternators and whatnot at the car if the problem can be fixed by finding a better grounding point and/or turning down the gains a bit. Hell, a good cap will probably fix the problem but I'd prefer a "free" solution...wouldn't you?

A big 3 upgrade can help voltage by up to 20%. there are some of the most knowledgeable people in car audio on this board, do you really think that the big 3 would be such a popular recommendation if it showed minimal results? Im not trying to be a dick but its a proven way to help voltage drop.

its also shown some cars perform better, get more mileage and even make another pony or two with it done. as for wanting a free solution. you get what you pay for.