kickass audio Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 Ok so i have a 2004 gmc envoy as you can see in my sig. Theres one problem i noticed with my trucks alarm/remote start (viper 5901). With it being cold up here in Buffalo, NY i have been using the remote starter some nights to defrost my truck before i leave work or class. Well one thing i noticed is that when i unlock the truck and the truck is running off the remote start my headlights and reverse lights will blink on and off 3 times rapidly. This is VERY bad for me because i have futurevision hid's installed in my truck and turning hid's on and off fast is bad for the bulb and ballast from what ive read. What i was wondering is what i can do to get around this. Is there a way to re-program the lights so that it doesnt flash my headlights 3 times when i unlock the truck while its started through the remote start? Do i have to clip a wire from the harness of my alarm so it doesnt engage the lights? The way its setup and wired right now (i didnt install it so please forgive me for not knowing which wires were tapped into) but when the truck is off and i unlock it, if its in the day time the parking lights will flash 2 times and the headlights will never flash. If i unlock the truck when its off but its dark outside the parking lights will flash 2 times and the parking/reverse lights will stay on for about 30 seconds until they shut off by themselves (this is the stock feature of my truck so im not bad with this although if you keep reading it does present a problem). If i have the truck running off the remote start and unlock my truck whether its in the day or night the parking lamps will be on and the headlights and reverse lights will flash 3 times for about 3 second long flashes and then stop. To elaborate on what i said before with how my truck's headlamps turn on and stay on for 30 seconds this is bad for me if i have been driving the truck around or have had the lights on. If i had the lights on because i was driving and i lock my truck but come back to it within a hour and unlock my truck in the dark my driver side light will ignite at its full brightness but my passenger side light will flicker badly and it will make the ballast/bulb buzz very loudly. If i look directly into my projector it looks like my bulb itself is sparking on the inside. If while this is going on i go in my truck and manually turn on my headlights it will stop buzzing and both lights will be at their full brightness. Im sure i cant get around this without getting a DRL killer but i really dont want to install one of those. Sorry for the long ass post but i like to elaborate on what im facing so people can understand what im facing. Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert8252 Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 Sounds like the factory alarm is being triggered. Did a professional shop install it? If so I'd just go back and ask them to look into it. Quote 2013 F150 Crew Cab Old Build Log Feedback 2013 F150 Equipment - Some Awesome Stereo Sound Making Stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 You need a tool called a "bitwriter" which plugs into the alarm/remote start brain and allows the installer to change settings on the alarm/remote start. Any authorized DEI (dei being directed electronics inc, owners of the viper, clifford, python, avital, and many more brand alarms/remote starts) shop should have one of these units however this may not fix your problem since you have daytime running lights and they turn on anytime the truck starts. You may have to find the module for the daytime running lights and disconnect it. also depending on how the installer wired up the alarm, they may have wired a headlight trigger, this could also be disconnected if it was used to turn the headlights on. By law for many states that the vehicle running lights must remain on when the vehicle is running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 it was professionally installed. i wouldnt attempt this my first time around. now i can do it because i know how to do most of this part in the install. The shops in my area dont have bitwriter (i think only shitbuy aka best buy has them) and i refuse to go to them to have them reprogram it. I looked and bitwriter doesnt contain the part for this. And its not the problem of the lights being on, im fine with my parking lamps being on but the headlights coming on is my problem i want to stop. I want my 4 way lights to come on solid when its started up because in the winter time you cant really see my truck well without them illuminated. Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVAlonSo Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 (edited) Its pretty hard to hook up the headlights instead parking lights if the installer is testing their wires. what seems to be the issues here is the DRLs. if its the vehicle, besides just permanently disabling the feature, i would take your status output wire from the alarm ( negative trigger when remote starting) and wire to a relay to interrupt your headlights. as soon as you hit the remote start button, the headlights will be disconnected. Once the car has started, the relay will shut off and they will be back to normal again. Very simple setup and seems like it will solve the problem. its sort of like the new toyotas where you need to interrupt the auto light feature to turn the lights off. If the shop is reputable with good installers this is a very simple fix Edited November 12, 2011 by EVAlonSo Quote MECP MASTER CEA208509 Proud employee of Alarms, ETC in lakeland, FL ASE certified 2002 Tacoma: 4 RF P3 15s @ 28hz 2 RF T1500-1bdcps 2 pair Kicker QS 4 Pair RF Power 6s 3 RF p400-4 1 RF p200-2 ALP CDA-9887 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 what happens if you push your parking brake before you start it. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignickk Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 couldnt he just cut the white (daytime light) wire? im assuming the installer hooked up the wrong wire. Quote 2000 tahoe orion hcca 15.4 kicker zx2500 2 JL 300/4s infinity and kicker mids/highs KHC1400 in back, stock upfront dont ask about my HU clarion EQ kicker/fosgate rcas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVAlonSo Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Yes he can disable the DRLs but why disable completely? thats why i suggested interrupting, unless he wants it gone Quote MECP MASTER CEA208509 Proud employee of Alarms, ETC in lakeland, FL ASE certified 2002 Tacoma: 4 RF P3 15s @ 28hz 2 RF T1500-1bdcps 2 pair Kicker QS 4 Pair RF Power 6s 3 RF p400-4 1 RF p200-2 ALP CDA-9887 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 (edited) what happens if you push your parking brake before you start it. Nate: do you mean to pull (its a lever not an actual pedal to push) for my parking brake before i remote start it or just start it normally with my key? Im pretty sure its just my DRL thats messing this all up because if i lock/unlock my truck through the stock remote my truck came with, it will flash my parking lights and running lights upon lock/unlock as well as illuminate my interior lights in the cabin. I did this mod on my DRL before i put my HID's in to prevent them from doing the buzzing noise where the hid bulbs would not get enough power to illuminate and would put a lot of strain on the ballasts. http://forums.trailv...ead.php?t=64575 and once in a blue moon will i have my lights buzz when i unlock my truck in the dark AND its not on remote start. If its on remote start it still will flash my headlights for 3 times lasting about 1 second per flash and i really want to try and stop this from happening. As i previously noted i do not want to delete my DRL's as they do come in handy sometimes for where i drive off to with college and work and i also do not want to stop my parking lights from coming on when im running the truck off remote start as it helps others see my vehicle in the street when its snowing like all hell outside. EVAlonSo: They did wire everything up right. There was no problem other than them not knowing how to program my remote starter to supply power to my rear defroster wire they ran but that was a 2 second fix for me. The headlights do not flash 3 times if i do a remote start. The ONLY time my headlights will do the flashing sequence is when i unlock the vehicle AND the remote start is running. Read below for a better description of what my lights do when i lock/unlock.... Unlocking vehicle in the day with remote start off: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will not illuminate until a door is opened and headlights do not flash at all. Unlocking vehicle in the night with remote start off: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will illuminate prior to a door being opened, headlights and reverse lights come on solid for about 15 seconds and then turn off if i do not start the truck by key. Unlocking vehicle in the day with remote start on: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will not illuminate until a door is opened, headlights do not flash or turn on at all Unlocking vehicle in the night with remote start on: parking lamps will remain steady, interior lights will illuminate, headlights and reverse lights will flash 3 times consecutively for 1 second each flash and then turn off. Remote start running: parking lights will be illuminated, headlights and reverse lights will not be illuminated. Edited November 12, 2011 by kickass audio Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 set your parking brake and remote start it. See if it still flashes. parking brake should kill the DRLS. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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