SPL Blazer Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 ^^^^ That. You'd have to fiberglass the unholy hell out of the seams, corners, and joints. But after that, it should be fine. It would look sick with a stained finish on it. Another thing to look out for is knots in the wood.... One good bass drop would blow those fuckers out. Good point, hadn't even thought about the weak points like the knots. It would take a minimum of a gallon of fiberglass resin, and a lot of sq feet of fiberglass mat to seal the inside, never mind what you'd need to seal the gaps between the actual 2x4's......and finding perfectly straight 2x4's will take some time too. Quote 2001 Blazer ~ (2) 10" DC lvl 4's, Orion 2500d 148.9db 2005 Astro ~ (2) 18" DC XL's, Atomic 5000.1 153.9 db New England SPL NESPL - YouTube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Im fairly certain that all 2x4s get warped from being in the racks at the lumber yard. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baron_of_bass Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Im fairly certain that all 2x4s get warped from being in the racks at the lumber yard. Very true its happened to me, but if you have access to a plainer and jointer you can file them down and get them perfectly squared. I did this some time ago and it was perfect. Took a long time but there was no gaps. Quote Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted January 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 thanks for the thoughts guys ill look into this more as i am seriously interested in trying this just for kicks ill be doing it for a single 12 so should be pretty simple. (except for the glassing) -jarrid Quote i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmescan Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Would be easier to use 2x6's or 8' or 10's. Wouldn't need as much sealer. But they most certainly would be bowed. Quote SONY XAV-701HDRF power 400.4 RF power 1000bd 3 Sundown x8's d22004 f150 single cab2 sets of components MB quart 6.5 onx (2 tweets 2 6.5 perdoor)stock batt up fronBIG 3http://www.stevemead...-vid-pg-11-922/http://www.youtube.c.../TheBigmescan74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Im fairly certain that all 2x4s get warped from being in the racks at the lumber yard. usuly when you build with 2x4's you "crown" them so the inevitable bow's all go in the same direction to avoid some wobbly walls and crown them up os roof joists to keep the sag out. In this case you would want the crowns to alternate for rigidity. But I have built butcher blocks out of pine and I tell you, there is no way they would ever leak. With access to a planer if you build them long sides touching, a jointer if they are joined short side, but this wouldn't be as strong. The prep work wouldn't be too long and it would look like a big bassy fucking counter top, I want to do it now! How I would do it; Plane the long sides, all of them before you get joining them like when you build a table. Join them in sections small enough to go into the planer so you can plane the sections before you join them for aesthetic reasons. Dowels and large clamps with a good amount of glue would prevent them from leaking if done right provided you use a good glue like Tightbond II. All you would need is a big ass blade to cut the holes for the subs. This would be a tank of a sub enclosure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmescan Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 ^^^^^listen to him Quote SONY XAV-701HDRF power 400.4 RF power 1000bd 3 Sundown x8's d22004 f150 single cab2 sets of components MB quart 6.5 onx (2 tweets 2 6.5 perdoor)stock batt up fronBIG 3http://www.stevemead...-vid-pg-11-922/http://www.youtube.c.../TheBigmescan74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted January 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 agree'd! i was looking at a high impact/high vibration resistant wood bonder.... but that shit is soooooo expensive.... $800 for 5 gallons i can imagine the price for the amount i would need......prolly like $100.....ouch! but yeah it would be awesome! you should make one too! stain it so it looks nice too! lol this is gunna be fun! Quote i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 I don't have a reason to build one right now. May do a home sub like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 The outside is 2x4's as you can see but the inside is 3/4"mdf and I have around 80 ounces of resin in the wall so far.There is no seams on the inside for air to escape from. If I were to do it again I would've set them on the bias and used more for even more strength. The baffle is the thinnest part of the wall at 1 1/2". I really didn't know what I was doing so I overdid it. Quote 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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