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+ Run from alt or battery?


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you have voltage drop going from alt to front batt, to back batt...

go out and measure the voltage at the front batt, and at the back batt while the vehicle is charging, its slight, nothing important unless you are anal about it.. and i am, which is why i suggest that

What causes the voltage drop?

how many fuses? how much resistance and drop will have with all those fuses?

I would assume since we are talking about the same number of wires, that the number of fuses wouldn't change.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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you have voltage drop going from alt to front batt, to back batt...

go out and measure the voltage at the front batt, and at the back batt while the vehicle is charging, its slight, nothing important unless you are anal about it.. and i am, which is why i suggest that

What causes the voltage drop?

how many fuses? how much resistance and drop will have with all those fuses?

I would assume since we are talking about the same number of wires, that the number of fuses wouldn't change.

multiple contact points will cause voltage drop, slightly, and by slightly i mean .1 or .2, but again im anal about things

and i dont know the technical side as to why to do it, I just know this has a bigger benefit, its the reason people with the bigger systems generally run from the alts back, as well as from the batt to the back.

if you look at most big builds, they all do it that way

The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log

Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube

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where theres a will theres a wall.......

I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones

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Voltage drop happens when you are using a battery faster than you can charge it.

Sorry, i meant what caused his voltage drop from the front batteries to the back batteries.

you have voltage drop going from alt to front batt, to back batt...

go out and measure the voltage at the front batt, and at the back batt while the vehicle is charging, its slight, nothing important unless you are anal about it.. and i am, which is why i suggest that

What causes the voltage drop?

how many fuses? how much resistance and drop will have with all those fuses?

I would assume since we are talking about the same number of wires, that the number of fuses wouldn't change.

multiple contact points will cause voltage drop, slightly, and by slightly i mean .1 or .2, but again im anal about things

and i dont know the technical side as to why to do it, I just know this has a bigger benefit, its the reason people with the bigger systems generally run from the alts back, as well as from the batt to the back.

if you look at most big builds, they all do it that way

Multiple contact points makes a difference. not enough for just about any of us to worry about. There are times where the number of conductors comes into play with competing, so running 4 runs to the terminal block then 4 runs back would count as 8 conductors, I think...it is also easier to just wire to the back batteries from the alts. No worrying about a huge terminal block up front. Personally, I think it looks neater with all those wires hooked up to the battery :)

However, without considering the loss from a couple contact points, there is virtually no difference in the contact point being the alternator OR the front battery, again, assuming the total capacitance stays the same.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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so i have never had a system or done a system over about 2500 rms. so i have done alternator upgrade but never multiple alts. however i plan to wall my car soon and i have been working this question in my head myself. i was thinking (an i could be way off on this but....) what about keeping my stock alternator to run my factory components and headunit but run my second alt which will have to have a custom brackets built and so on just for the amp side of the system. thus using all its output (technically) to supply power to the rear battery bank and amps. let the flaming begin!

NEUMAN

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so i have never had a system or done a system over about 2500 rms. so i have done alternator upgrade but never multiple alts. however i plan to wall my car soon and i have been working this question in my head myself. i was thinking (an i could be way off on this but....) what about keeping my stock alternator to run my factory components and headunit but run my second alt which will have to have a custom brackets built and so on just for the amp side of the system. thus using all its output (technically) to supply power to the rear battery bank and amps. let the flaming begin!

NEUMAN

zero reason to keep them separated unless you are running different voltages.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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