knowledge Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 crimping is better and i have the 8ton one and i can literally pull a car with it. although i have the black dies is cool with me. 1/0 REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need.
knowledge Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 some smaller wire REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need.
LUV bass Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 Damn, now I really want a big crimper... lol It really seems like the best way to go. Maybe I'll get one if I can start charging my friends for crimping their wires 2008 Toyota Corolla -Skar VVX 12 D4 (2)-Skar SK1500.1-Pioneer DEH-80prs
moh.vze.com Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 Damn. I'm tempted to buy one now. It took me almost 3 hours to solder my 1/0 Knu's for my big three a few years back. DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs
NightmareImpala Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 The crimps come out even better with the correct size dies. The black dies are def smaller than what they are labeled as. TEAM DISTANT THUNDER
Airborne Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 I have a big ass crimper that looks like a set of bolt cutters. Got it off C-list last year. It is bad ass! I have soldered lugs before, it took longer but I really don't see the difference in "pulling strength". It really doesn't matter, either way, done properly will result in a SAFE cable...
AA98hoe Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 i use these cost me 150 but they are awesome TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.
SnowDrifter Posted March 8, 2012 Report Posted March 8, 2012 Sorry for the shoddy pics, but it's all I have for now. I'll get better ones up later. Used the 35mm die and it came out perfect. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Torres Posted March 8, 2012 Report Posted March 8, 2012 I'd take off those lugs, strip a new chunk of wire, and just solder it. Those look like imminent doom crimping is better. There was a thread about crimping wire vs. soldering but not in your case. i'd solder any day over having to use connections like that. i like soldering better it looks more clean only if you're good at soldering lol. otherwise it looks oxidized to hell and back with a melted jacket and a dirty mud of solder at the tip
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