looking at subs

[Kdub26]

i seem to get narrow minded when looking at brands, so ive done more research, and to keep this from being a VS thread, im leaving the brand names out of thread, and replacing with "brand X" and so on. now, im a noob when looking at all of those numbers on the specs of the subs. the ones i do know, are the SPL and the xmax (which if im not mistaken, is how much the surround can flex in one direction).

my goal is to pick the sub that will be loudest with the best bang for the buck. so, here's the list i have formed. all subs are 18", and all within the same price range. and basically my question is that, should i lean towards a higher xmax and spl, or should i lean toward which one has a higher wattage?

Brand A - 1250w rms - xmax 21mm - spl 89.6

Brand B - 800w rms - xmax - 21mm - spl 91.6

Brand C - 1000w rms - xmax 24mm - spl 92

Brand D - 1000w rms - xmax 20mm - spl 91.4

Brand E - 1000w rms - xmax ? - spl 89.8

all brands are great quality brands, none of that walmart crap. so, brand isnt the issue, just wondering if i should lean to a high xmax and spl, or higher wattage. also, if im wrong about the xmax, please let me know. to also with with an answer, im leaning more to having SPL more than SQ

[Ballen194]

i like brand c.

[Kdub26]

i do too. highest priced out of the rest, but i think it would be worth it if its the loudest. im willing to fork out the extra cash if its gonna be louder than the others

[Ballen194]

from what i know, its always "you get what you pay for". so that may be your best choice.

[Joe X]

Unfortunately sensitivity is measured at 1KHz, high sensitivity subs perform well in huge boxes.The only way to vaguely determine which sub has potential for loundess is through modelling (using all the t/s parameters), use the free WinISD but then... it ignores completely the cabin effects inside your car, need better software for that.

[Noobtastic14]

You'll never know which is louder or cleaner or perform better until you buy them all and try each one.

I say, single elimination brackets. Flip a coin and the winner moves on loser is out. Whichever woofer is left at the end with no losses is your winner.

Its the only logical way.

-Drew

[Kdub26]

You'll never know which is louder or cleaner or perform better until you buy them all and try each one.

I say, single elimination brackets. Flip a coin and the winner moves on loser is out. Whichever woofer is left at the end with no losses is your winner.

Its the only logical way.

-Drew

i guess with all of them being so close within each other, a coin toss doesnt seem like a bad idea. and obviously i dont have the funds to buy all and test all of them haha.

[Kdub26]

from what i know, its always "you get what you pay for". so that may be your best choice.

i firmly agree with that. thats why im willing to fork out a little extra cash to get a well built sub that will last me a while. if i had to pick the better of the brands, it would be B, C, D. none are total crap by any means. but, leaving brand names out so that its not a VS thread, and favors one brand over another. i would run any of the given brands because im unbaised, and would rather look at numbers, price included as well.

[TeamHT]

SIGH

[audiofanaticz]

Brand A - 1250w rms - xmax 21mm - spl 89.6

Brand B - 800w rms - xmax - 21mm - spl 91.6

Brand C - 1000w rms - xmax 24mm - spl 92

Brand D - 1000w rms - xmax 20mm - spl 91.4

Brand E - 1000w rms - xmax ? - spl 89.8

Those numbers in red mean nothing to you at all....

Brand C for example that says 92db DOES NOT mean that if you buy two of the woofers you will be hitting 184db loud..

Its is a generated number when woofers are tested for their Thiele Small parameters, which is when the woofer is giving 1watt from 1meter away and not in a enclosure (free air).

The only thing that the number tells you is if the driver is more efficient at producing sounds. So in most installs it will take Brand A more power to be as loud as Brand C.

Again those numbers have nothing to do with how loud the woofer will be inside your car, or on any sort of SPL Testing meter such as a Term-Lab, Audio Control, or SPL-Lab (which is a bootleg ripoff version of a Term-Lab).

The many concern would be if the speaker will handle the potential power your giving it, and the travel of the cone (xmax). The Xmax numbers are usually 1way numbers, so you would multiply those by 2 to get its peak to peak movement while staying linear.