gredysra Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 the batts r 12.4 off 12.6 charging the stinger says 13.2 and its caibrated and i think hooked up right and ive never had a problem with the stinger until this car Quote 89 Ford Bronco 2 6 DC XL M2 12's 1 DC 9K Dual Singer Alts 7 Xs D3100s & 1 D6500 All Audio Techinx OFC 1/0 Doing 55s at 26hz!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 And its a piece of junk. both your batts float low. 12.8 or up. Im willing to bet if you actually had a meter ( a real one) youd find the problem in no time. like a fuse thats partially blwon but doesnt nlook it. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepGuy Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 (edited) I will try to word this the best I can here... When you hook up the stinger volt meter to the amp,do you use a different length of wires to read that voltage than what you would use to read the battery. Like you use a 5 foot wire to read battery and then a 12 foot wire to read amp? Because if you use a different lengthed wire then you will have to calibrate indivisually each time otherwise the voltmeter will not be accurate. Edited April 1, 2012 by JeepGuy Quote - 1995 Jeep Wrangler - ALL UNDER MASS TRANSFORMATION! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gredysra Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 ill change fuses and update yall toworrow Quote 89 Ford Bronco 2 6 DC XL M2 12's 1 DC 9K Dual Singer Alts 7 Xs D3100s & 1 D6500 All Audio Techinx OFC 1/0 Doing 55s at 26hz!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 I think its your volt meter or lack there of... Get a real volt meter then recheck! Quote Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 ill change fuses and update yall toworrow you could buy a digital multimetere and stop relying on the POS stinger and do some actual troubleshooting. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gredysra Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 ok went and bought a 60 buck multimeter and check all my termials and changed all fuses still all same but i ran a run back to the back bats off my alt and its up to 13.1 at amp so im gonna charge my batts all night and buy a ho alt and go from there Quote 89 Ford Bronco 2 6 DC XL M2 12's 1 DC 9K Dual Singer Alts 7 Xs D3100s & 1 D6500 All Audio Techinx OFC 1/0 Doing 55s at 26hz!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01ExSport Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 I'd take back the $60 dmm and get maybe a $10 one? Save a bit of cash and i'm sure it wouldn't be a big difference in readings. Check the resistance at each fuse holder, check grounds, etc. You have the rear batts neg connected to the one up front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 I'd take back the $60 dmm and get maybe a $10 one? Save a bit of cash and i'm sure it wouldn't be a big difference in readings. Check the resistance at each fuse holder, check grounds, etc. You have the rear batts neg connected to the one up front? I agree, you don't need that much precision and accuracy for car audio voltage readings. Cheaper DMM FTW! However, I've always wanted a Fluke brand DMM just because all the Engineers use one Quote DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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