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Its one of two things. Your starter solenoid isnt fully engaging so that your starter is half grinding on your flywheel or the flywheel itself has a bald spot on it from the teeth of the gear being ground down. Try to tap on the starter with something like a 2x4 or a pole if you have one but dont slam on it. if that doesnt work try to unbolt the starter from the side of the engine iirc its in the drivers side but idr and im not at home to check my dads tahoe to see. Heres a video of how to change it:

Super easy to change them just disconnect the power completely because its super easy to short out the power wires for your starter and they are NOT fused so if you short it out it will keep arcing until you separate the wire that is shorting.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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So me and my dad just took off the starter. The teethe on the starter looked a little rough so that is going to get replaced for sure. We also found two teethe in a row on the flywheel that are ground down to nothing. So we turned the wheel a few notches and put on the original starter and she fired right up so i got her home.

So after those findings how hard is it to replace a flywheel? Should i just cut my loses and sell it? Is it going to be like a game of Russian roulette every time i go to start it not knowing whether or not its stopped in that spot? Or any other suggestions i'm not much of a mechanic but i can follow directions.

Thanks for all the help guys i love it here. :drinks:

1998 GMC Suburban 1500

20" Southern Comfort rims... too small ):

HU - Kenwood KDC -x396

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is it a 4 wheel drive or not to change the flywheel you have to drop the transmission out of the car/truck and your flywheel should be right there should be like 6 or 8 bolts in the center of it. first thing you will need to do if you are changing the flywheel will be dran the tranmission fluid out of it that will make it lighter when dropping it out and plus when you take your transmission out you pumkin what most people call it but realy if is a tork converter once you pull the trans out far enough the trany fluid will start leaking out of the pumkin might want to get a buckit or something because there is going to be quite a bit of fluid coming out from it. im guessing you have a 305 in it or 302 cant remember which one is chevy right now but one of the hardest parts of it will be is putting the trans back on becasue you have to line up you tork converter to your flywheel and the center hole of the flywheel. i have done a couple of tranys before its not that bad after you do a couple of them. (((unhook battery)) 1. drain fluid 2. unbolt drive shaft (put bucket under the part that comes out of the trany becasue fluid will come out from there) 3. take all linkage and wires off of trany and make sure you dont lose any bolts and screws. 4. remove starter 5. put juck under trany with bord on it to make sure you dont dint and trany pan 6. take bolts out of trany starting from the top first to the bottom make sure all support bracket are taken off as well. 7. (((put bucket under front part of trany fluid will leak out from this spot))) this is the tricky part drop the trany slowly and at the some time pull tranny towards the back of your car/truck you will have to stop jack every once in a while to reajust and make sure everything is coming out smothly (you might have to use a flat head screw drive to pop trany from engine) at this point again make sure eveything is unhooked from trany its not impossable to miss something we are human. 8. after cheaking again to make sure everything is unhooked continue to drop trany and keep pulling back at the same time. 9. after trany is off proiced to take flywheel off will need to jam screw driver or something on the flywheel because it will move while you try to take off the bolts. when putting on new flywheel make sure to put a little lock tight on the flywheel bolt to make sure they dont come out after you get everything put back together i would say like blue or red lock tight nothing harder because you might not get it off again if you need to replace it in the future. 10. do reverse directions to put trany back in 11. after everything is in remember to put new trany fluid back in the trany ( i am guessing but think it will take 6 to 10 quartes to fill back up cheak with autozone or any parts place they should be able to tell you how many quartes you need to fill it back up. ((((((((((((( P.S. do not drain tork converter keep flang side up so all the fluid does leek out from it becase it take quite a bit of trany fluid to fill it back up))))))))))))

i hope that the info i gave you was help full

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is it a 4 wheel drive or not to change the flywheel you have to drop the transmission out of the car/truck and your flywheel should be right there should be like 6 or 8 bolts in the center of it. first thing you will need to do if you are changing the flywheel will be dran the tranmission fluid out of it that will make it lighter when dropping it out and plus when you take your transmission out you pumkin what most people call it but realy if is a tork converter once you pull the trans out far enough the trany fluid will start leaking out of the pumkin might want to get a buckit or something because there is going to be quite a bit of fluid coming out from it. im guessing you have a 305 in it or 302 cant remember which one is chevy right now but one of the hardest parts of it will be is putting the trans back on becasue you have to line up you tork converter to your flywheel and the center hole of the flywheel. i have done a couple of tranys before its not that bad after you do a couple of them. (((unhook battery)) 1. drain fluid 2. unbolt drive shaft (put bucket under the part that comes out of the trany becasue fluid will come out from there) 3. take all linkage and wires off of trany and make sure you dont lose any bolts and screws. 4. remove starter 5. put juck under trany with bord on it to make sure you dont dint and trany pan 6. take bolts out of trany starting from the top first to the bottom make sure all support bracket are taken off as well. 7. (((put bucket under front part of trany fluid will leak out from this spot))) this is the tricky part drop the trany slowly and at the some time pull tranny towards the back of your car/truck you will have to stop jack every once in a while to reajust and make sure everything is coming out smothly (you might have to use a flat head screw drive to pop trany from engine) at this point again make sure eveything is unhooked from trany its not impossable to miss something we are human. 8. after cheaking again to make sure everything is unhooked continue to drop trany and keep pulling back at the same time. 9. after trany is off proiced to take flywheel off will need to jam screw driver or something on the flywheel because it will move while you try to take off the bolts. when putting on new flywheel make sure to put a little lock tight on the flywheel bolt to make sure they dont come out after you get everything put back together i would say like blue or red lock tight nothing harder because you might not get it off again if you need to replace it in the future. 10. do reverse directions to put trany back in 11. after everything is in remember to put new trany fluid back in the trany ( i am guessing but think it will take 6 to 10 quartes to fill back up cheak with autozone or any parts place they should be able to tell you how many quartes you need to fill it back up. ((((((((((((( P.S. do not drain tork converter keep flang side up so all the fluid does leek out from it becase it take quite a bit of trany fluid to fill it back up))))))))))))

i hope that the info i gave you was help full

Holy shit man that is greatly appreciated. I am going to run this by my dad and see if he wants to try and tackle it. the only problems i for see is a trans mount i dont have one or even jack stands or ramps.

1998 GMC Suburban 1500

20" Southern Comfort rims... too small ):

HU - Kenwood KDC -x396

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i couldnt realy see how high you truck sits up but might have enough room to drop the trany with out jacking your truck up measure the distance and see if even need to jack it up. trany mounts i talking about if you truck have mounts on the trany that holds it in on the frame like you trany bolts to you frame if you trany doesnt bolt to the frame that means less stuff you have to take off lol

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boy that thing wasn't grabbing anything in that bald spot :P sorry had to say it hope u get it fixed

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