Wat are 45s used for in subs boxes, and are the metal thread rods better for bracing than regular wood

[kingsuv]

3/4 is the smallest I will go. I have had issues with smaller rod resonating

Also if you build your box correctly, you won't need 45's for added strength.

I see eveybody always says if the box is built correctly , but wat makes boxes so different .... I see you build boxes, if you were to build a box for three niteshade 15"s in a 10 cube box after displacements with two 8 inch aero ports tuned to 33.

If you make straight, tight cuts and use a good penetrating wood glue, the joints will never come apart. The only time I use screws on my boxes is so I can build faster while the glue dries. The rest of the time a few brad nails hold everything nicely.

Bracing is key in any box. But you need to be smart on where and how your bracing is in relation to how the box is built. Makes no sense to have a brace 4" away from a wall when the real support needs to be close to the sub.

If anything a double baffle is more important then 45's Most of the boxes my 2nd baffle is also my flush mount layer. Even though the sub is mounted to the 1st layer, the 2 layers glued together make that face a 1.5" strong ass piece.

Last thing you want to look at is design. I stack my walls on my bottom and then my top on the walls. Much like building a house. Then the front and back are the width of the whole box with the sides cut in short to fit within the front and back. When I design, regardless of how the box is placed in the car, i always call my front and back the full width of the box. for some reason, I get a better joint strength with the longer front and back at the full width then if I had them cut short so the sides went full depth. I think it has something to do with the pull out strength of wood glue VS the sheer strength of the glue.

I've used every glue out there and I like the Elmer's pro bond the best. It's a little thinner then others and takes longer to setup, but I find it seeps into the wood better for a tighter bond. Some other dry too fast and become brittle.

[D-train-13k]

i basically double baffled my whole box.

i built everyting first then just added another baffle to the outside and it covers all the seems.

i only have 1 45 in my wall but also two 1/2 threaded rods in the middle going from front to back

[kingsuv]

45's, whammy bars, and wedges can be tricky. Sometimes its hard to tell if it is the 45 shape, or just the displacement that makes the gain. Kinda defeats the purpose of 45's when a half flat basketball can have the same results

I like all thread over wood bracing as I can get more support using less space. But not every box or design needs bracing. All depends on the design. You would be surprised how strong a 2x4 under the face of a pair of 12's can be vs having it span the depth of the box. I ran 2x6 under the face of my 16' 12's and only had 1 layer to support everything. Then added a few all thread legs in the middle.

In Mario's car, I had a shelf on the floor of his box that came right up to the opening of the port, I 45 the edge and painted it over. It was hands down his biggest gain in the box he had for his 2 -10's

[AA98hoe]

I use 7/8 allthread with a jam nut on the bottom of box it only protrude a 1/4 in or so..also what kingsuv said...I've beat on his box with 4 18s for about 2 years and its held together great.....

[SlamminBeats]

You would be surprised how strong a 2x4 under the face of a pair of 12's can be vs having it span the depth of the box. I ran 2x6 under the face of my 16' 12's and only had 1 layer to support everything. Then added a few all thread legs in the middle.

what do you mean by this?