ALPINE408 Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 LOL at people talking about which bolt has more resistance. You are talking about 1 inch of metal, which has less resistance than your entire run of speaker wire to be honest. It's not a big deal. we're talking .0001 ohms of resistance. you are for getting the ring terminal resistance then the loss of contact area washers and nuts then times that by 2 because your doing the same on the other side you have to drill a hole for bolts why not just drill a bigger hole for speaker wire then fill it in with hot gule or caulk done.... the only time i have use the bolt method was for comps when i was switching ohm loads for daily vs comp.... for ease of use/switching ohms Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 LOL at people talking about which bolt has more resistance. You are talking about 1 inch of metal, which has less resistance than your entire run of speaker wire to be honest. It's not a big deal. we're talking .0001 ohms of resistance. you are for getting the ring terminal resistance then the loss of contact area washers and nuts then times that by 2 because your doing the same on the other side you have to drill a hole for bolts why not just drill a bigger hole for speaker wire then fill it in with hot gule or caulk done.... the only time i have use the bolt method was for comps when i was switching ohm loads for daily vs comp.... for ease of use/switching ohms Nicely said. so at the end of the day, it's .005 ohms I understand the fact if you are competing but it isn't going to matter if you just want the thing to work. We should bust out the DMM and do a test how much resistance there is on just that section. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AA98hoe Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 .005 ohms? Have you tested this? I putting 80 plus amps and over a hundred volts through my 8g speaker wires.. I don't want mulyiple contants that my signal has to go through to reach subs..ease of changing ohm load is the only good reason to use bolts..as far as splicing into your direct leads either solder or use big blue wire nuts like I do... TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 LOL at people talking about which bolt has more resistance. You are talking about 1 inch of metal, which has less resistance than your entire run of speaker wire to be honest. It's not a big deal. we're talking .0001 ohms of resistance. and the resistance difference between crimping and soldering is even less than that, but people still fight over it If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 I've done copper threaded rod, copper washers and copper bolts before. It worked fine for my purposes (at the time @800watts RMS). The issue I had was over time it developed corrosion. This was in my earlier days of audio, after the corrosion developed on the copper I eliminated the copper and tapped a hole through the wood for the 8ga and as mentioned above filled the gap with hot glue. It's probably insignificant but I have always been concerned with the length of the wire when using the bolt method to be able to switch the wiring on the subs. the neg to pos run for the series load would be very long. I like to keep the circuit short as possible and symetrical. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 For those who direct lead through the box, do you caulk the whole afterwards? On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 i do fill that bish up caulk silicone hot glue all work well Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 Shweet, just wanted a confirmation on that. I would much rather do direct leads because as n8 said, i wont be switching ohm ratings. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted May 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 Thats why I want to do it, ease of switching the ohm load, no luck finding solid copper bolts, went to 4 or 5 different places. I did get a tip though, 1/4" copper bolts for a toilet, haha, i'm going to go look, besides the 8ga copper ends have 1/4" anyways so it doesn't need to be any bigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtnbikecrazy55 Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 Thats why I want to do it, ease of switching the ohm load, no luck finding solid copper bolts, went to 4 or 5 different places. I did get a tip though, 1/4" copper bolts for a toilet, haha, i'm going to go look, besides the 8ga copper ends have 1/4" anyways so it doesn't need to be any bigger Every toilet I've ever installed i've used brass flange bolts, but I guess I never really looked for copper. Good luck! I hate long signatures.... ...what the fuck is wrong wiht you you fucking fuckity fuck fuck head... Mtnbikecrazy55 Feedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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