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Kenne Bell 2010 Mustang GT: Speed (slow) and Sound Build


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Damn stepping up to a team fi, that should be fun. I'd be interested to see how it compares to an sp4, I know you didnt get the sp4 hooked up but just physically speaking

Wait am I missing something?? That's not a team FI is it? He just said sp4 so I'm confused.

Regardless, Ken I think this is going to be the best yet for the stang...or at very least a close second to the 2 mayhem 12's. Are you going to have to build in the trunk or can you build it to slide in?

He bought that Team Sub that had been in the for sale section for a while. It was a steal of a price. I dont think he even has the SP4 yet cause he ordered it. LOL

Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born.

My penis is bigger than your penis

I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle.

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Thats the SP4 in the pics. I bought the Team sub just because of the price, probably won't even use. Just hold onto it for a while until a WTB thread pops up. Can't do 2 15's even if I wanted to. Would need another amp, another battery, the trunk would BE the box. Too heavy and too much of a pain in the ass.

I was just concerned the 15 wouldn't fit through the opening inside the car, but it did easily. Gonna have to figure out a sort of ramp to install it once the box is in. There is no way to get enough leverage to lift the damn thing once its in the trunk motor facing away from me. Damn small car problems LOL.

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Removable section in the top that is accessible from the trunk. Push it in, then have someone lift the motor while you screw it in

formerly known as Blue86f150

its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies.

Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive

this sux camel dicks
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Removable section in the top that is accessible from the trunk. Push it in, then have someone lift the motor while you screw it in

Thought about that, something like what Bill did with Marios trunk build. Need to reference how well it sealed and how strong it was (as far as flexing). I have no space for a double layer.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cheap. The motor I'm looking at for old blue is about twice that.

formerly known as Blue86f150

its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies.

Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive

this sux camel dicks
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I looked at that short block...

Wrong rings, p-bearings, piss poor pistons, and not knowing the clearances=no bueno.

Plus, it's not that much cheaper, if at all, than doing it right, not to mention the 100hp and reliability you'd give up.

I guess I'd compare those "packages" to a prefab enclosure. I was going to compare it to an AudioPipe, however as we all know, at least AP is "good for the money" lol.

You can use you block, $1100 crank, $650 rods, $800 pistons, $200 bearings then add labor, and you'd be much better off if designed correctly.

Again, IMO.

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Their reputation isn't bad. And they are assembled per order.

The rep will be here before 2pm today.

Pardeus, I understand a rebuild would be cheaper, but what if my block is damaged due to whatever broke inside it? Then I got machining and labor to pay for.

I've never heard of Probe Pistons, so I don't know. But what's wrong with the rings and bearings?

Anyway, gotta wait and see what the real damage is and what my shop suggests from that info. Won't REALLY know until we tear it apart.

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Aluminum block, it's hard to hurt it so bad it can't be repaired. A welder and a grinder can do magic on them, as I've fixed blocks where 1/8 of the block vaporized, and went back into service making 10,000hp.(fuel motor)

That appears to be a standard ring pack, and not a durable material for your goals. The piston is guaranteed off the shelf, no anodized lands, no coated skirts, and it'll leave power on the table by not working with your valve hieghts (they make them safe piston to valve wise). Piston is probably a poorer casting, as Probe has India as their supplier.

Also, a p-bearing means non-coated, which will wear MUCH faster.

I'm not trying to convince you to let me build it, as we've got 40some motors sitting in the floor waiting to be done, and 100 more to do very soon. (We can work in timelines though).

I'd just hate to see it be done anyway other than the best, as it could last you a long time done right, or be in this same spot in a year or two. And warranties in this business are near worthless, somebody can always put the blame on you. We don't even give them-if your shit breaks, we take care of it. That's why we're the top shop in our field.

If you find somebody local, I'll be glad to do what I can to help the build, engineering wise.

I hope it's something simple damage wise though, like a squirrel in the vaporizer-homogenetor.

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