SnowDrifter Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 I'm trying to replace the alternator on my car - 2003 Subaru Forester - and it doesn't want to come out. I have removed both bolts, the plug, all wires, and the belt when when I yank on it - it just pivots on the right side. It looks like there is a metal sleeve holding it in, but I cannot figure out how to get that out so I can remove my alt. Am I missing something here? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
dkindle613 Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 maybe another bolt somewhere? or maybe something else is in the way, not enough clearance for the alt to come right out. i missed the part about the metal sleeve. maybe try taking off the sleeve, or try prying on it lightly with a flat head screw driver, and try pulling the alt out. WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit 2003 ford explorer 2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box 1 T1500.1bdcp 250amp ALT by Mike Singer 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 yellow tops
Kicker Guy Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 Don't really know that car.... pics would help greatly Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Sub Amp:American Bass VFL 500.1 Subs: 4 Fi BL 18's Enclosure:21.5 Cubic foot flat wall tuned to 40 hz Batteries: 3 Kinetik 2400's in the back, Kinetik 1200 under hood. Mids & Highs: 4 Kicker DS 6.5 coax in doors, 2 Kicker DS coax in pillars Highs Amp: Kicker kx250.2, kx100.2 Wire: 4 Runs 1/0 gauge Knukonceptz
Wicks Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 I've seen that. Sometimes it just pivots in place but it is free, try GENTLY with a large pry bar and pry it out. Keep one hand on it in case it quickly comes loose and falls out. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026
CFAIST Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 Ive had that on a few cars when I used to work on them for a living. Try haveing someone pry on it while you pivot back and forth. or theres another bolt. good luck to you sir. C.A.R. AUDIO Faist Audio Concepts F.A.C. 96 Escort wagon Murdered out (redneck style) Eclipse HU, CDT classic Components ED Nine.2, Hifonics 1608d (borrowed) 2 Powerbass M 15"s 6 cubes tuned to 30 hz 2005 State record holder 0-600 Consumer 143.7 USACi Kick (1 Soundstream SPL15, JL e1200) 2009 3rd Loudest 0-1000 Trunk In Iowa USACi 145.00 kick. (4 Powerbass PS-10's US AMPS MD3D) 146.2db Unofficial. 6-ps-10's MD3D. Personal best 150.9DB 4 Powerbass M-15Ds. American Bass VFL150.1 at .5 ohm 2010 Usaci 0-1000 mod Iowa state record holder 149.4DB Check out my youtube channel CFAIST1
HatersGonnaHate Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 Just pulled up the removal procedure.... It should pop out, so like said above, gently pry it with a prybar. My name is AdamThis is my Civic Build.7" Samsung Tab 2Kenwood KDC-X896Clarion EQS746Sundown X-15DC 3.5k @2ohmHatersGonnaHate's 02 Civic UBLELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/FitDon's Jeep Grand Cherokee Rebuild N8ball2013 - i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol srp365 - If posting were picking up bitches, I'd be going home single tonight looks like tony montana sneezed in your car.
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