ddlvr630 Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 so i went to go put in the big 3 in my car yesterday. i got the grounds in no problem other than the bolt that was grounded to the chassis was rusted so bad it took a half hr just to get the b*tch out. yes i sanded that spot down to bare metal and got a new bolt. i went to go do the pos wire from the alt. i couldnt get to it. had to take the throttle body cover off just to see the back part of the alt. i still couldnt find the bolt on the alt for it. so today i jacked up the car to see if i could get to it better. NOPE. the damn ac compresser was in the way. so i said f it. i went to my local shop, which is very well known, and they told me 80 mother fn dollars to run the pos wire. only if i have everything, which i do. wtf is that about?? is it that hard to get to the alt in my car??? 2004 chevy cavalier Quote 2004 cavalier 2 door 5 speedalpine cda-103skar pax 6.5s power acoustik D1-6000power acoustic 4-2600soundquest 1/0 throughoutDC XL M2 18 walledstock altbig 3 donestock battery under hood, 1400cca 400ah semi battery in the trunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Apparently so. Find a Cavalier forum and search for alternator topics. Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby Holmes Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 forget that man... i had my entire big 3 done for $152.14 but... if you get sick of it, its nice to know there is always another option! Quote '08 Chevy Cobalt coupe 2.2 base model trunk build: 2 9512iSC flatwound alum 1.5 coils -extra 9500 spider pack -8" platinum carbon dustcaps 1 DD Z1 (.375ohm nominally daily) 3g31 AGM 320a Ohio Gen alt 1 DD S4 4 channel 4 VO-M8v1's (holes cut for 3rd pair) 2 CS 6.5's 2 VO-B1's Sony XAV-601BT all Knu Krystal RCA's Cadence 7band EQ ______________________ 148.3db @ 32hz (burp) 148.4 @ 37 & 38hz (burp) 146.xdb 90sec average (center windshield) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HHR Ed Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 yes it is hard to get to, seems like you couldnt get to it and a ton of stuff has to be taken apart and that requires labor, which incurs labor charges. Thats just how things work man. My labor rate was $65 per hour, and That job could take over an hour. Quote Ed Lester ShowtimeSPL Host Showtime Electronics Video MarketingMy old Build Loghttp://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl 5 time dB Drag Finalist Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way. Loudest score ever = 171dB 2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddlvr630 Posted July 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 well that sux. it wouldnt be so bad if i wasnt on a very limited income... disability... 483 a month after child support. got bills and what not. maybe ill just suck it up and take shit apart lol Quote 2004 cavalier 2 door 5 speedalpine cda-103skar pax 6.5s power acoustik D1-6000power acoustic 4-2600soundquest 1/0 throughoutDC XL M2 18 walledstock altbig 3 donestock battery under hood, 1400cca 400ah semi battery in the trunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinewave Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 I just bought a 2004 Cavalier for a daily driver last week. I started upgrading the charging system wiring this weekend (even without any stereo in it). I did the grounds to the body and block. I also upgraded the accesory fusebox, but I have not run to the Alt as I was low on time and as you said it is a bit burried. Im going to tackle this Wed night if you can wait. I'll hit you up with the info and pictures. Quote I may not slam trunks anymore....but my trunk still slams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch0sen Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 http://www.clubcav.com/showthread.php?t=5716 scroll about half way down and they more or less just say to take off the alt then add the wire to the alt Quote My current 95 Jetta Build w/ pioneer h/u 2 RD Sonance 10's with flatwind coils 2 Audiopipe apsm 1500.1s 1 Hifonics Brutus Elite 60x4 1 XS d925 1 Stinger spv35 1 1000 amp lead acid 50 ft of 0/1 ofc from Audiotechnix all powerbass components, and coaxils, 4 sets buildlog = http://www.stevemead...2-rd-10s-build/ My build for my wife. http://www.stevemead...01-f-150-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayhuh? Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Well worth the $80 IMO Quote Blown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Davis Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Man you said you on disability then that means you arnt working so you have all the time in the world and are they the same engines I mean 92-05 cavs had the same engine and bay right? Its a real tight fit if they are but youtube theres a kid that did one on there look up alt replacement for a 2004 cav should help you out to removing that last power wire ya need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinewave Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 (edited) Well last night after the gym I was feeling frogy so I upgraded my power wires to my 2004 Cavalier and took some photos, and thought I would share. First the main factory power wire splits from the battery to the accessory fuse box and to the stater solenoid. From the same post of the starter solenoid a small wire (AND I MEAN SMALL WIRE) runs to the output post on the alternator. It's a bit tight but a 13mm socket and wobble will get the job done. I am only going to outline the steps I took to upgrade the output from the alternator to the battery. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!! Pull the air box for room No access from the top....going to have to get under the car. This is the solenoid located almost dead center under the car. The red wire is the factory power wire from the battery and the SMALL green wire is going to the output post of the alternator. Both of these wires are on the same threaded post of the solenoid...13mm socket to remove. Note: The green wire changes over to red after the fuse link. Red wire is the alternator output. Wires removed. Factory alternator output wire vs. 4 gauge. Factor wire from battery to solenoid vs. 4 gauge vs. 0 gauge...Not terrible I have seen worse. Making cables. Cables made...I wish I would of had some shrink tube laying around..Gives me a reason to go buy some. Note: Keep the alternator post cover and reuse it on your new wires. Replaced both cables to the solenoid. One runs back to the alternator and the other up to the battery. Finished. Now before anyone says it I know I need to add a fuse to the line from solenoid to battery as close to the battery as possible...but this car is not going anywhere for the moment and I will add it tonight. What can I say it was late and I wanted to get this up on the site. I hope this helps. Edited July 11, 2012 by Sinewave Quote I may not slam trunks anymore....but my trunk still slams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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