zxsonnyxz Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 No you are fine, as stated by all above... What you are reading with the DMM is the DC resistance of the coil, and you're basically measuring a long wire. When you're playing music however, the coil becomes a inductive reactive load and the total resistance (impedance) will rise, and the amound of rise change with frequency. The "nominal impedance" (Z or Zn) number is just kind of an average through the frequency range. Your amp isn't going to die the second it sees a load belov 2 ohms. It too is rated with by nominal impedance, and as long as you match it with speakers with a combined Zn of 2 or more ohms, you're good. Quote STD Passat Build 151db+STD Omega BuildMitsubishi Colt Build - Alpine|Focal|PeerlessHome Stereo BuildSmall Tang Band build - 4" fullrangeBox for 4 8"My Saab 9000 Build- I'd be very happy if you cared to check out the logs and give feedback! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathcards Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) No you are fine, as stated by all above... What you are reading with the DMM is the DC resistance of the coil, and you're basically measuring a long wire. When you're playing music however, the coil becomes a inductive reactive load and the total resistance (impedance) will rise, and the amound of rise change with frequency. The "nominal impedance" (Z or Zn) number is just kind of an average through the frequency range. Your amp isn't going to die the second it sees a load belov 2 ohms. It too is rated with by nominal impedance, and as long as you match it with speakers with a combined Zn of 2 or more ohms, you're good. you forgot that when the coil warms up it increases resistance ^just adding on to this^ Edited July 20, 2012 by deathcards Quote skar sk2500.1 0 gauge power and ground kunukonceptz alpine HUvxi65 components on BA gt-275new build log -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150642-project-d-kon-deathcards-build-log/#entry2148821 2 x-15 sundowns singer alt, odyssey bat, and maxwell ultra caps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 What you are reading with the DMM is the DC resistance of the coil, and you're basically measuring a long wire. When you're playing music however, the coil becomes a inductive reactive load and the total resistance (impedance) will rise, and the amound of rise change with frequency. The "nominal impedance" (Z or Zn) number is just kind of an average through the frequency range. This. Nothing to do with rounding up, heating up, DMM leads, blah, blah, blah. Just this. A DMM is measuring DC reaistance, not AC impedance. Been stated a million times. Quote Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpeebs Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 so iv been looking online about audiobah and apparently the sub are supposed to be 1.3 ohms, but they say that there quad 2 so im gunna give them a call on monday because they say 2 ohm and if it is actually 1.3 ohs per voice coil im gunnna take it back and get my money back, i appriciate all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeg321 Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Don't take your sub back read this http://www.bcae1.com/resvsimp.htm it's pretty much what stated in the post above yours with an explanation. Quote 4 fully loaded Fi sp4 15's 2 Crescendo bc5500s Crescendo c1100.4 6 focal mids Vifa tweets 5 XS Power d3100's Pioneer avh-p4200dvd All crammed into a mustang. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150569-mikeg321s-fi-nendo-mustang-getting-walled-videos-page-4/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Wtf everyone just said your sub was fine and you read it's suppose to read 1.3 and that's what you got and your still gonna send it back. Lol ok. I hope you don't have to pay to ship back a perfectly good sub Quote 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 so iv been looking online about audiobah and apparently the sub are supposed to be 1.3 ohms, but they say that there quad 2 so im gunna give them a call on monday because they say 2 ohm and if it is actually 1.3 ohs per voice coil im gunnna take it back and get my money back, i appriciate all the help. You don't understand the difference between direct current and alternating current (don't feel bad, a LOT of people don't understand it around here). Your meter measures DC resistance. That is just the resistance of the wire through the coil. Music/tones/etc are NOT DC, they are AC. The voltage swings back and forth from negative to positive (that is what makes the cone move in and out). The voice coil is a COIL. It has an inductance, so the impedance (the term used for AC "resistance") varies with frequency. Your coils have a DC resistance of 1.3 ohms. That does not matter to you, since you will not be applying DIrect Current. They have an average impedance (based on the range of frequencies they are designed to play) of 2 ohms. There is nothing wrong with your subs. Don't make us tell you again. . .just hook them up and enjoy. Quote Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxsonnyxz Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 ... i appriciate all the help. Then why do you completely ignore it?? Every single person in this thread say your sub is FINE! Y U NO LISTEN? Quote STD Passat Build 151db+STD Omega BuildMitsubishi Colt Build - Alpine|Focal|PeerlessHome Stereo BuildSmall Tang Band build - 4" fullrangeBox for 4 8"My Saab 9000 Build- I'd be very happy if you cared to check out the logs and give feedback! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpeebs Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 i really dont understand what you guys mean, like will my coils read normal after its broken in or? also my amp gets very hot when i have it one i have everything at half what i nrmally do to break in the sub and my amp still gets hot, iv never had it get hot on me even when i had my RE audio xxx 15 ran off this amp, the only problem i had was my electrical coudnt handle the power draw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Send it back. . . Quote Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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