TRTC360 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Posted November 14, 2012 I hate to say it but I'm pretty sure you could have gotten the sub out without doing that. Try going with the cone side first, swing one side in "or out" then the basket and magnet would fit. Either way, glad you are fixing it up. Maybe I'm wrong but just looks possible It's amazing how you're so sure of something that you haven't seen in person, i'm pretty sure he knows what could and couldn't fit through the loading wall opening. '93 Firebird Formula V8 H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395 Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4 Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0 G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator www.youtube.com/TRTC360
n8ball2013 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Posted November 14, 2012 he may have been able to get the owofer in but hes not a little guy and has to hold it while he secures it. thats not easy. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
conceptM Posted November 15, 2012 Report Posted November 15, 2012 It must have taken some balls to get the saw out and cut all that good work Well, I'm happy you found the problem & were able to fix it! I think these aren't some low range, easy to handle and weighing in at 3 kilo's woofers. I wouldn't like to see the damage if it were dropped during the wrestling game trying to get them squeezed out of the port. Why did you decide to change the charging system down to 12V? Precaution? A massive thanks for sharing everything up to now & all those detailed pics! Woofer: 12" Phase Linear Aliante Limited Mids & highs: DLS Ultimate 5 1/4" Amp: Audison VRX 6.420 HU: Sony CDX-C90R
CJ18 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Posted November 15, 2012 Came home to a nice package sitting at the door waiting. Quality seems much better than the last alt I got from Mechman a few years ago. I have ordered a new belt that is 3" longer than this one. I am going to try a few different pulley positions and sizes to get better belt wrap on the stock location alt.
DubNDodge Posted November 15, 2012 Report Posted November 15, 2012 I believe that is called belt fondling, not belt wrap lol Edit: I guess ford never expected to need a lot of belt wrap on the stock alt.. Tuned in '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.
CJ18 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Posted November 15, 2012 I hate to say it but I'm pretty sure you could have gotten the sub out without doing that. Try going with the cone side first, swing one side in "or out" then the basket and magnet would fit. Either way, glad you are fixing it up. Maybe I'm wrong but just looks possible I am trying to come up with a way to say this without being a smartass, but there just isnt one. I removed the plexi glass which was siliconed and bolted in with the hope that I would be able to fit the sub though that opening. The motor is too big to be able to bring it through either end first and turn it to get it out. No matter what way I tired it wouldnt come though. I mean do you seriously think that I didnt try to get it out every way possible before I cut the loading wall? I mean really think about that one for a minute and get back to me. I might have fucked up and not glued the spider down completely, but im not a complete idiot. On another note, I dont think the spiders were the only problem. I decided to free air it before putting it back in to see if anything would let loose and I hear this. It must have taken some balls to get the saw out and cut all that good work Well, I'm happy you found the problem & were able to fix it! I think these aren't some low range, easy to handle and weighing in at 3 kilo's woofers. I wouldn't like to see the damage if it were dropped during the wrestling game trying to get them squeezed out of the port. Why did you decide to change the charging system down to 12V? Precaution? A massive thanks for sharing everything up to now & all those detailed pics! Going back to 12v so I can drop back an only run 2 alternators. The triples work, but they really bog down my engine. Going back to duals, I can still have about 750a of charging capability while running dual alts and my engine jsut runs better. It doesnt sound like it is pissed off anymore.
Chris Hammer Posted November 16, 2012 Report Posted November 16, 2012 That didn't sound to good. You have to do another recone? what is it coil rub or somehting in the gap or something else? MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
SWIFT Posted November 16, 2012 Report Posted November 16, 2012 I hate to say it but I'm pretty sure you could have gotten the sub out without doing that. Try going with the cone side first, swing one side in "or out" then the basket and magnet would fit. Either way, glad you are fixing it up. Maybe I'm wrong but just looks possible I am trying to come up with a way to say this without being a smartass, but there just isnt one. I removed the plexi glass which was siliconed and bolted in with the hope that I would be able to fit the sub though that opening. The motor is too big to be able to bring it through either end first and turn it to get it out. No matter what way I tired it wouldnt come though. I mean do you seriously think that I didnt try to get it out every way possible before I cut the loading wall? I mean really think about that one for a minute and get back to me. I might have fucked up and not glued the spider down completely, but im not a complete idiot. No offense taken, Not glueing the spider down completely is a simple mistake that can happen to anyone, but sometimes the most obvious things are the easiest to overlook. Like building something that wouldn't allow you to get to your subs without cutting shit up. Seriously man, I was only trying to help. I own a company where people pay me to figure out how to get things in and out of very tight places. Sorry if it rubbed you wrong. Nice build and good luck 2012 F250 Lariat 6.7, lifted on 22's and 35's 4 DSS Ethos 18's walled tuned low 2 Ampere Audio 7500.1's, Ampere 125.4 Rockford Pro Audio front stage 9 batteries, Mechman Elite 370 alt Team DSS, Team Ampere Audio 2014 Meca Mod 3 TN State champ / 3rd place Mod 3 World Finals
CJ18 Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Posted November 16, 2012 It wasnt designed to take a sub out like this. I designed it to have to take the loading wall off to remove the subs. I just didnt feel like taking everything back out to do that, so this happened. Redneck Engineering!
CJ18 Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Posted November 16, 2012 Ha who said I had to cut it out!
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