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The motor would start to diesel and the lights would start to pulse at idle. Basically indicating a bad or weak connection, it was the wire gauge.

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The motor would start to diesel and the lights would start to pulse at idle. Basically indicating a bad or weak connection, it was the wire gauge.

Lights dim? WIRE GAUGE! Lights pulse at idle? WIRE GAUGE! Pretty much anything else your lights do? WIRE GAUGE!

Wife doesn't love you anymore? WIRE GAUGE!!!

That's why you need larger wire, come on down to Big Bob's wire emporium and get the 8ga. your voltage regulator is crying for today!

I'm gonna hate

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From the little I know its the voltage regulator and its adjustable from 14v up to 20v. Normally the regulator is built into a alternator but when its external like this I'm guessing it leaves more space in the alternator for more beefy parts and the regulator case design helps it stay cooler rather than it being inside the alternator where heat can and will affect performance. Thats what I think the point of going this route achieves but anyone see me saying something wrong please correct me.

The Adjustable External Regulator allows for the variance in voltage needed when the load exceeds normal levels on the electrical system. This particular model is nice b/c the adjustment can be made from inside the vehicle via the tuning knob.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bit the bullet the other day and went at installing this bad boy, Tensioner doesn't bottom out but still gonna try to get a belt maybe a half inch to an inch smaller. The regulator is over by the CAI filter and relay is up on firewall as well as the ground for relay. These pics show the alt fitment as this was what I was focused on at the time. The regulator voltage is solid even with a good 30 min drive voltage really doesn't change so I'm keeping it at 14.8v. Thanks again Mechman.

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I had to use a drill bit to open up the OE positive cable terminal ring but I did keep that in the connection as well.

Only thing I can add is maybe its just the whole I have a new alt feeling but my truck seems to run alot calmer while driving around as it seems it doesn't have to put out as much effort to get to a certain speed. I have ACCEL COP's they say they are meant to give a better spark and it just might be that they are getting the power they need to right now.

Thanks :drink40:

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I called mechman and spoke to Josh because on my invoice it even said I was aware of light coming on. After setting it up no light has come on. From what he explained it will vary from car to car. I thought maybe because I used the OE power cable maybe that helped but not really sure. I used the IDEAL brand 20pk terminal assortment 12 - 10g (yellows) from lowes. Everything except the ignition turn on was done in 8g the turn on was done in 12g off a switch I use to turn my voltage meter off and on. This last part might bother some but I'm cool with it.

EDIT: fourth pic from last one up you can see the red and black wires that came with my setup. They go to the regulator field and NEG connections, the OE harness from truck is zip tied out the way.

Edited by crunkjuice1

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I have had this running for a few days now but I still have to clean up the wiring. I used the IDEAL brand terminal assortment in 10g to 12g (yellow plastic) from Lowes and the harbor freight crimper I got awhile back needless to say it looks worse than it is lol. I'll straighten it all out I promise!

Heres regulator

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and heres the relay a bit up from regulator.

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the red and black wires over the relay are the field and negative coming from the harness MM made for my setup going to the external regulator. I can close the hood and not smash anything which at the moment is what I most concerned with.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Since I too have a 97 Expedition; Are all the alts for the Expys externally regulated? I am gonna pull the trigger on one of these soon.

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