Lbox88 Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Battery up front is a brand new Walmart special. Biggest I could get BEFORE I had beats in the truck. I have one negative run to the back Shuriken and its grounded up front along with the big 3 scraped to bare metal and engine block. The Shuriken is NOT grounded in back. Should I ground it in back? The front rests @ 12.2 & Shuriken rests at 12.4. When running, Shuriken is at 14.2 & front is at 14.1. I figured im only running just a tad over 1800 watts total and believed the big 3 and Sburiken would suffice. And all wire is Knu CCA.. how is your rear bat at a higher voltage than your front with the engine on? also your resting voltages with car off seems kinda low as well. it is proven that the run from bat negative up front to bat neg in rear is not needed until higher power systems. yes it is good to have but if you can ground your bat in rear to a good grounding point, I would do that in addition to other run. frame strut tower, anything like those are good grounds 2nd Your run fromt he front bat is more than likely 15 feet+ to be generous correct? With CCA, that is really only able to supply around 120-150 amps yet again beign generous. my friend switched 2 3 foot runs from CCA to OFC and say goodbye to major voltage drop. yes OFC makes a huge difference. If it were me, id sell all the CCA and get OFC, especially with your long runs. and i would make sure all your grounds are as good as possible And where do you get this information from? UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdavebasshead75 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Go back through and make sure all bolts are tight and terminals are soldered/crimped tight. Again, how was your gain set? Still waiting on my DD-1 I ordered. But I hooked it up to make sure everything was running since I bought used equipment. Skar is from a member on here, subs are from Kevin over at Skar and box was wonderfully made by me. Gain is set by ear but only halfway up. my gain is all the way down to minimum. it all depends what your rca voltage to the inputs are. you could be clipping your amp and subs to shit with the gain half way. if you dont know what your doing turn it down!!!! or risk blowing equipment. Trust me, im NOT beating right now. I have experience to know NOT to be beating if somethings not right! I have EVERYTHING turned down til that DD1 comes!" Lol. My deck has 4 volt preouts. And if I have to rewire in ofc, than ill try that in the next few Weeks and redo my grounds. Thanks for all the info and help guys. Ill keep u posted!!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141026-2001-bravada-build-2-15supdated/?fromsearch=1 ----old build!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194247-2005-chrysler-300c-buildslowwwww-lol/ -----new build!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdavebasshead75 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Yeah.... just seems with whats listed,.... it voltage should be fine.... hmmmm.... unless the gain is up to high of course,...... Do you ever smell coil ? Do the drivers get hot ? Does your amp get hot ? do you ever throw it into protect ? Only smelled coil on ONE song when I demo'ed for a friend but I believe that track was fugged up. Amp never got hot (that Skar is the best amp ive ever had!) and never in protect. I believe the ground might need moved and rescraped and ill try the ofc like u guys said. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141026-2001-bravada-build-2-15supdated/?fromsearch=1 ----old build!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194247-2005-chrysler-300c-buildslowwwww-lol/ -----new build!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Don't bother with the OFC, if you do everything RIGHT with CCA you'll be golden. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayhuh? Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Ground your battery at the rear as well. Being the vehicle is 11 years old, I would ground the rear just in case. Proven or not, you can't go wrong. CCA should be fine. Blown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdavebasshead75 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Ground your battery at the rear as well. Being the vehicle is 11 years old, I would ground the rear just in case. Proven or not, you can't go wrong. CCA should be fine. Kinda figured that. If their cca was that bad, they wouldnt sell it. Lol. Ill do the easiest first and ground the Shuriken to the frame. Time to get the drill out and jack stands! Hope that helps. Ill also redo the front ground too while im at it. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141026-2001-bravada-build-2-15supdated/?fromsearch=1 ----old build!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194247-2005-chrysler-300c-buildslowwwww-lol/ -----new build!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Ground your battery at the rear as well. Being the vehicle is 11 years old, I would ground the rear just in case. Proven or not, you can't go wrong. CCA should be fine. Kinda figured that. If their cca was that bad, they wouldnt sell it. Lol. Ill do the easiest first and ground the Shuriken to the frame. Time to get the drill out and jack stands! Hope that helps. Ill also redo the front ground too while im at it. That sounds like a good start, just make sure to ground off to solid shiny metal. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Battery up front is a brand new Walmart special. Biggest I could get BEFORE I had beats in the truck. I have one negative run to the back Shuriken and its grounded up front along with the big 3 scraped to bare metal and engine block. The Shuriken is NOT grounded in back. Should I ground it in back? The front rests @ 12.2 & Shuriken rests at 12.4. When running, Shuriken is at 14.2 & front is at 14.1. I figured im only running just a tad over 1800 watts total and believed the big 3 and Sburiken would suffice. And all wire is Knu CCA.. how is your rear bat at a higher voltage than your front with the engine on? also your resting voltages with car off seems kinda low as well. it is proven that the run from bat negative up front to bat neg in rear is not needed until higher power systems. yes it is good to have but if you can ground your bat in rear to a good grounding point, I would do that in addition to other run. frame strut tower, anything like those are good grounds 2nd Your run fromt he front bat is more than likely 15 feet+ to be generous correct? With CCA, that is really only able to supply around 120-150 amps yet again beign generous. my friend switched 2 3 foot runs from CCA to OFC and say goodbye to major voltage drop. yes OFC makes a huge difference. If it were me, id sell all the CCA and get OFC, especially with your long runs. and i would make sure all your grounds are as good as possible And where do you get this information from? Ray, and he tested Knu CCA to be exact from my own experiences this proves to be true. OFC FTW Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Folks he has a huge voltage drop with not too much power. Those long runs of CCA are doing a lt less than you would think. If he has voltage drop there is a problem somewhere. Grounds, wiring batts. Grounds are cheapest fix, then wire, then bats. I guess there could be other things too but those 3 are easiest to fix and will do nothing but help his system Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 where is your math and current draw charts to show this proven to be true? 1 CCA is not that much less effective than straight copper wire 2 there is no such thing as (OFC) its just copper oxyegen free is a slaes plow was your copper manufacturied in a vacume sealed room??? i think not and if it was once cut and moved to packagaging it would not be OFC anymore now would it ? 3 I know and have had a car do over 160's with CCA your argument is invalid ill put money that he does not have 120 amp alt i dunno if i missed but if this is a honda they are notorius for there shitty charging systems Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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