P4killer_ Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 On my way to work.. Idles at 14.7 As soon as the rpms goes.above idle. 15.5 15.7 15.8 bouncing around Next thing I know my.amp.goes into protect.. I look.down .. 16.0 16.1... Only for a sec.. Obviously after it warms up its fine. But won't this damage the car electronics? Should I be worried? Thanks Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 It may or may not. I've seen people charge at 15.9 and be fine but computers are pretty vulnerable pieces of equipment. I'm assuming you have an aftermarket alt? If your amp is not happy, imagine what your ecu may be thinkiing. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Sounds like a bad regulator. Where are you taking these readings at? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Stock alt reading at the amp Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 I had the same exact issue. Keep in mind your voltmeter reads an RMS voltage. Therefore you could be peaking above that 16V. Possible 16V / 0.707 = 22.6! This was causing my amp to go into protect at EVERY stop... Not fun! It would be hard to tell what the cars CPU can take for voltage spikes but you don't want to risk damaging it. My issue turned out to be a flaky Mechman AVBM. Swapped for an external adjustable regulator and have been solid since. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Right now idle at 14.4 and 15.0 or so at speed.. Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 So if I'm understanding correctly this would be an alternator issue not an ecm controlled issue? If I bought a new alt I'd just buy a h.o one no sense in buying OEM..but I don't want the new alt charging super high.. and was worried it might be the computer not correctly controlling the voltage.. But then again all problems would be solved by using a vcm.. aren't those xs ones hard to come by?.. is it difficult to install? Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Some alternators are externally regulated others are internal. Its most likely the regulator. What reading do you get at alternator positive post? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general_neo Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Hey guys anyone sorted this out! I am running 320A universal mechman and have the exact same issue! The spike Occurs around 1000 RPM! My Focal Amplifiers goes into protect and like someone said above! Not cool! City driving doesnt let me listen at all! And recently one of the fuse on the amp blew! Not sure whether its due to this though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Voltage Regulator is the problem CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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