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1,400 Watts On Stock 110amp Alternator?


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Alright you guys I'm pretty new to this forum so I hate to start a thread like this, but I'm really looking for some direct opinions from you guys. I've searched all around on here and read some similar threads. I've also asked for opinions on my truck thread. But I really want some advice from you guys that are good with this kind of stuff. Most of the guys on my truck forum aren't very experienced with large systems like everyone on here.

So I'll give you guys some background first. My system is nothing crazy like most of you guys on here. I've been running it for a while now though and even have it tuned with my DD-1. I find myself playing it at full blast all the time and just can't get enough of it. It sounds amazing to me, but Im just getting too used to it. I need MORE BASS!!! Hahaha. I've also been working on and tuning a bunch of friend's systems and it just makes me want more in mine hahaha.

I currently have 2 sets of focal polyglass 6.5 components on an Alpine PDX F4 amp at (400 watts). Then I'm also running a mono alpine amp at (500 watts) powering my JL Audio 12w3 in a sealed enclosure. My headunit is a Pioneer AVH-P3200BT. I have it all tuned with the DD-1 and running all 4 gauge wiring on the stock battery and electrical. And my stock alternator on my 06' Frontier is a 110 amp. My system sounds great, but I need more. At just 900 watts and stock electrical I already get a little dimming and voltage drop. My headlights don't dim since I have HIDs, but my interior lights dim slightly on heavy hitting songs like some of Decaf's. Currently my normal resting voltage is 13.3 to 13.8 volts and every once in a while on the right songs I'll see drops down to 12.8 volts. Now here is my plan.

In a few months Im going to be building a new ported enclosure and getting a Sundown SA-12. Then Im going to run it on a Sundown SAZ-1000D at 1ohm (1,000watts RMS). Then Im going to run all new 1/0 gauge OFC to the amps and do the big three in the engine bay. Also, I plan on installing an XS Power D2400 that will fit in the stock location. I'll have to do this in steps sort of. i would like to get a high output alternator, but I probably won't be able to for a very long time. The only one they make for my truck is a DC Power XP series which is a lot of money for me to put out.

So I'll be sitting at 1,400 watts RMS after all this and plus all the other crap in my truck like cb radio, gps, hids, offroad hids, etc. I really want the most out of my setup, but I won't be able to stand it if I have serious dimming and voltage drop.

So the question is, will I be able to get by with 1,400 watts on the 110 amp alternator with the XS power battery and 1/0 wiring without serious voltage drop? I know a H/O alternator is the most ideal, but it will be a long time before I can get one. Ill tune it all with the DD-1 and I will probably be playing it full tilt a lot hahaha. Also, do you guys think it would be better to get a different amp and run the 600rms SA-12 on like 800 or 700 watts rms. This would probably be the easiest on my system, but from what I understand the SA-12s can take a lot of power and like it. Plus, I really want a sundown amp haha, and there is nothing smaller. Or maybe I could fork out the extra cash and run the 1200D at 2 ohms (720rms)? What do you guys think? Thanks for your input? Sorry I wrote so much hahaha.

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You could play it on 1000 rms, and if the voltage drops too much, just turn the gain down. I'm running approx 1500 watts on my 110 amp alt and I have headlights dimming (actually happened on the way to work tonight on a song that I didn't expect it to). So if you're set on playing it on 1000 rms, just be ready to turn the gain down. But if you don't want to or whatnot, then I'd suggest going with a diff amp to provide less. But also, if you ever upgrade again in the future, probably have to have a different amp...again.

Sheena = pedobear

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You should be fine, that's a nice battery, it will hold the voltage for a while before it starts to drop off. Unless your playing white noise you probably wont have all 1400 watts constantly. If you're worried about it, get a voltage meter.

As far as your amps go, you could get the SA 12 as a D4, and the 1200D, than later on down the road if you want more (It always happens), you'll only have to get a second SA12 D4 and build a new enclosure. Future-proof. :P

*New vehicle and system coming soon.*

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Thanks for the quick replies guys. I know I can expect some dimming and could turn down the gains, but I just dont like the idea of not using a full potential of an amp though. I guess I could just run the 1000D and turn the gains down if I need to or just use the bass knob to turn it down a little when voltage is dropping and still set it with the DD-1. IDK. i just know If I have a big amp im going to want the most out of it and probably force myself to buy my first H/O alternator. Never had one haha. It would still have to wait a while though. The 1000D is discontinued but I think I still can get it online. i dont have a lot of money for everything since im in college and go to a merchant marine academy, but I always want the best haha. Maybe the 1200D is sounding good. I could run the D4 version at 2 ohms and then upgrade the sub later if I ever get a high output alternator. I kind of dont want to get a H/O alternator on this truck though. ive already got a lot of money in to it and it is mostly an offroad machine/ daily driver haha. Will the SA 12 take the 1,000 watts well tuned properly? And will it get down on like 700 or 800 wats? Still open to others' opinions. Thanks guys. Oh and I already have a voltage meter installed in my truck to monitor the voltage. Just one of the old stingers haha.

It's weird sometimes I think my alternator really varies with the weird external regulator on these trucks. Worried about doing the big 3 with that too. Sometimes one song at full tilt will get like no voltage drop and other times it will drop more. This is a crappy vid, but you can see at full tilt tuned with the dd-1 and idling this song actually holds voltage pretty well at 900 watts total system power.

th_DSC_0947.jpg

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My advice, and you may not like it....get the H.O. alt first and build your system out from there. You are already an admitted bassoholic and 1 SA 12 on 1kw is not going to cut it for long. Spend money in the right place up front so you dont end up wasting money in the long run. Aim for 2kw for the subs, beefy but still dont need extreme stuff yo make it happen.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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I say save money for awhile and in.the mean time build a ported box for the jl which will give you more output just by building a.new box.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Yah man that is a good suggestion. I was thinking of that for a little while. Just getting the alternator right off the bat. Its a lot for me to put that on this truck though. Wanted to see if I could do without it since they only make one for my truck that is pretty expensive. Have to see how patient I am. I really want to get rid of the JL asap though. Im pretty tired of it and two weeks ago I think it partially blew or something. I had my system tuned with the DD-1 and running awesome for a long time now. But I let a stupid friend borrow my truck and he somehow put the stupid super bass equalizer on and cranked the deck all the way. I was so pissed. I havent took the sub out yet to inspect it, but it just doesnt play the same so Im pretty sure something happened internally. Luckily my focals seem alright, but im pretty sure he clipped the crap out of the JL. Damn I wish H/O alternators werent so expensive. I can spend 1,500 easily on offroad shocks, but 500+ for an alternator is new to me haha. So 1400 is just not possible?

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