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Possible Spark Knock? How to Fix


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If I remember right this is a fairly new motor that is in his car. Not the original.

formerly known as Blue86f150

its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies.

Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive

this sux camel dicks
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get your knock sensor checked, might have gone bad or could have a bad connection.

try running mid grade fuel, might help, might not.

check your spark plugs.

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Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

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Check the fuel pump and anything in between it and the engine. When I had pinging it went away when I swapped to a bigger fuel pump. Maybe you have a dirty filter or a leak somewhere.

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Higher octane will not help. The cars made to run on 87, run 87.

So you're telling me that when I encountered pinging (hot summer day, hauling), ended up throwing in 92 octane, after i ran out of 87, it didn't do any good since the pinging went away?

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Is it a click noise, or a 'knock on a door' noise.

The former would be a valve issue, the latter a rod bearing issue.

On that car, not worth fixing. New motor or new car time.

It sounds like someone is randomely dropping bb pellets in my engine, it doesn't sync up with the RPMs

sounds like detonation from carbon build or your timing is off id check timing belt couldve skipped a tooth

I'm leaning more towards carbon build up, if anything

get your knock sensor checked, might have gone bad or could have a bad connection.

try running mid grade fuel, might help, might not.

check your spark plugs.

There is no knock sensor on this car :(

And yes, this is a replacement engine. Was a 40k from a JDM shop that works on imports

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http://www.toyoland.com/engines/4A-F.html

Might try a cold-air intake.. or just run mid/premium

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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Are you using the USDM ecu or JDM?

I'm finding knock sensors for that motor...

2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles

Stock H/U and mids/highs

Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub

HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm

Random 2.5^3' dual ported box

NVX LOC

Stinger wiring throughout 

 

1977 Chevy SWB

Cammed 350

Dual exhaust

Cheap Wish stereo

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I'm not exactly sure about the ECU. I'd have to get under the console and look. I've google searched and found some for the engine too, but on the 6th gen corolla forum on toyotanation I've read that the early 4AFE's didn't have them, but the later AE111 7AFE had them. I didn't find anything in the repair manual on it either, but if I had an idea where it was I could definitely look!

My Channel on YouTube. Check it out for cinematic-style Car Audio videos.

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https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217173-2014-tc-4th-order-build-3-fi-sp4-15s/

 

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had a similar problem with my explorer like the guy in the vid, ended up being my plug wires, under load or acceleration it creates more of a load on the plug wires causing them to short out to the nearest ground, check your plugs and the only real way to check you plug wires is with an ohm meter, usually they range from 4k ohms to 7k ohms per foot

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