proper ground?

[Blackedout]

Thanks Chris. You are right. Good find!

[Chris Hammer]

Thanks Chris. You are right. Good find!

Note in the bottom...he says he would recommend doing a 1/0 run on old vehicles affected by rust a corrosion...and once you start getting close or over 4k

[AMI CUSTOMS]

Basically how would I run a proper amp ground? Ground chassis with a bolt and then chassis bolt to frame? I know I'll get crap for this but I used a tapping screw before but I want to do it right now. Also I will it be safe if carpet goes back over it? One final thing what is the atvantage of using a copper bar with the group I saw it on the black nasty build?

Make sure where ever you pick to ground the amp that the metal is as clean as possible and bare. Get the screwdriver out and scrap the metal up, then take some 36-80 grit sandpaper to the same area. The connection needs to be tight. If after you tighten it down you can move the cable around it isn't tight enough and WILL become hot under heavy current pulls from the amplifier.

The frame is find to ground to, you just need to make sure you battery neg to frame ground is also upgraded.

Using a copper bar to attach ground cables to was out of necessity, I had one large stud to ground to so it was easier and more effective to use a large bar and the attach all 8 (1/0) grounds from the amps to that bar. By using copper I am insuring the best possible connection. Other then silver, copper is the best choice. I would never use a copper bar like that on a system under 10k worth of power.

[CleanSierra]

I agree with the AMI above, and here is what mine looks like. A hole drilled through the floor, washers and lock washers on both inside and outside the cab, everything sanded to bare before making connections.

I also sanded the bottom of the sheet metal on the underside of the cab as well. I shot paint over the bolt afterwards to ensure no rusting.

[SMZ2]

I agree with the AMI above, and here is what mine looks like. A hole drilled through the floor, washers and lock washers on both inside and outside the cab, everything sanded to bare before making connections.

I also sanded the bottom of the sheet metal on the underside of the cab as well. I shot paint over the bolt afterwards to ensure no rusting.

So you ran the ground from the amp to a bolt and then the bolt to the frame? That looks really clean too man.

[CleanSierra]

Yes I did, and it works for me. The break in the wire run is probably(almost undoubtedly) an area where some resistance is picked up. I'm not running anything crazy power though right now, so it's fine for my application. The run is only about 12" as you can see. On the inside of the cab, I'm using a distro block. on the other side of the lug you see, is about a 6" piece of 1/0 and then the 4 gauge out to both amps.Plus I AM using 1/0 OFC wire.

[the_garynator]

Just a note on the recommendation of using a stainless fastener to the frame. I would be a little careful using dissimilar metals (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion). If you do, (well, same goes if you don't as well), make sure it is protected from moisture as much as possible.