Sutliff Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Wondering what some folks' opinions of what brands of subwoofers might sound better than others in an "Infinite Baffle" setup in a trunk that has a volume of 15.8cf, but with everything in there, probably is closer to 14.5cf with the amp, subs, & other few things that I carry at all times ... When you open the trunk, the subs "hang" under the deck lid like two cow udders. I used two Kicker Comps for this summer to get by, & they worked fine, but am thinking there is something better out there? Needs: 12" 4-ohm SVC - would like to have the amp see 2-ohm again. Aiming for SQ Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassface Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Alot of people use AE IB15's (acoustic elegance) in infinite baffles, also Jl audio w7, but its a 3ohm single vc. http://www.aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 http://store.ficaraudio.com/ib3-series/ 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Something with a low Vas and Fs would be your best bet. The few mentioned above will work excellent for your application. You can actually use almost any sub for IB but not all will sound good. I have heard some people cutting vents into their trunk for a specific subwoofer. Usually the vent has to be at 60% of the cone size and your bass will be pretty loud outside the vehicle. I know; who makes up these crazy rules. lol Here is another one. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-455 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyG2 Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 He's looking for 12's, so the only above option would be the Fi IB3's,and the W7. I'd recommend the IB3. The W7 is really expensive... Lol *New vehicle and system coming soon.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 My mistake. I wasn't even paying attention. Just woke up lol Reading >me 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyG2 Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Those Daytons ARE nice if you wanted to save some money and cram in 15's though. There are a ridiculous amount of options for IB if you were to step it up to 15's. *New vehicle and system coming soon.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutliff Posted November 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 I will need 12" drivers because I already have the 3-layer-thick "baffle" built for two 12" drivers, ... 15 inchers would not have fit in my application anyway, ... 03 Monte Carlo SS. The 12's work perfectly, & I left the rear deck alone, just removed the OEM 6x9's, & that is where the subs "fire" up through, while being completely sealed off from the back-waves in the trunk, & it work phenomenally if I do say so myself. As I look at the specs for the FI IB312, the only reference to power handling is the following: "Rms: 550W @ 20Hz". If I run two 4-ohm in a configuration whereas the amp sees 2-ohms, what kind of wattage could I honestly "get away with" to run these reasonably well? 300-350W A piece? More, less? The amp I have know will only give them approx. 225W per sub. My head unti: Pioneer FH-P8000BT Needless to say, if I do the subwoofer swap, & I most likely will, I am going to need to invest in a new amp. Something I am very firm on is a 3-channel amp. Something that I can run 4-ohm stereo to door components - around 75-125W per channel, & a mono-block side that would run two IB312's rather well, but I do not need something extreme. I would be interested in a 5-channel amp as in the future I MAY install another set of components or a set of shallow-mount 8" Infinity mid-bass drivers. But I REALLY want to be pointed TWDS a 3-channel amp. If anyone made it this far, ... you are a trooper! But do you have ANY ideas? Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyG2 Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 The RMS at 20Hz means that's the amount of power it can mechanically handle from 20hz up. You can put 1100 watts to the pair and as long as you set your subsonic right it will work fine. *New vehicle and system coming soon.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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