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I have a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer with an 4.6L AWD transmission.

1. Will a 4x4 Transmission bolt right up?

Today tried to back out of drive way to go to work and barely had reverse. A couple of attempts and I got it to the street enough to put it in drive. I could not start off in Drive, I had to put it in 3 to get going but once I was going about 40 I could put it in Drive and it was fine.

Now my AWD transmission is a sealed system and there is no way to check the fluid level unless you crawl under the vehicle.

Does this sound like it could be a simple trans filter change and tranny fluid or would you think it is time for a new transmission?

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sorry to hear what happen to you today men :( i dont know how to comment on a status update

about the transmission i think 4x4 is AWD as well so i should work.

2010 Mazda 3

*Rebuild Time*

Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's
Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500
Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2

Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear

Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1

Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated

Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors)

Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4

Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3



The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11

flakosignature1-1_zps0751010a.png

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Sounds like a shifter solenoid went out to me. On my 4L60E, there are two solenoids that act together to place the transmission into gear. A and B. Your trans most likely has 3 or 4 solenoids. If you could do it yourself, expect to spend $20 to $50 per solenoid. If you take it to a shop, expect $500-700 in costs.

On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said:

Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole.

 

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I looked around and the main cause is trans fluid levels. Here's the proccess for your year

I have recently changed and added fluid to my 2003 Mercury Mountaineer with help from a Chilton manual. None of the answers posted so far are quite correct...and since I researched this for months before finding a proper solution I figured I would let everyone know how to do this.

Toolsicon1.png needed: Mercon V trans fluid, torx head socket to remove trans drain/add plug, an adjustable wrench to loosen the main bolt on the drain/add plug, a pump to add fluid back in, and (if possible) a temp gun like a service station would use. Last, but not least, you will need a special nozel that fits in the bottom of the drain hole to add fluid back in with. (I could only find this at OReilly's. It was a special order from 'OTC' <OTC Part No. 6604>

In my opinion this is a terribly designed transmission. To add, remove, or check fluid follow these steps:

1. Heat fluid to 180 degrees F.

2. Raise entire vehicleicon1.png using a level to make sure the vehicle is completely level.

3. With foot on break, shift through all gears, place back in park.

4. Go under transmission pan, and by using torx head socket (and PB blaster or you'll break the socket), Loosen the middle plug on the main trans drain plug. (There is a larger bolt head on the drain plug with a smaller plug inside it)

5. Replace center plug with OTC part No 6604.

6. Loosen, (but not all the way) the main bolt plug.

7. Now, this will tell you your fluid level. (Per Chiltons manual: If fluid pours out your trans is overfilled. If fluid drips out the level is ok. If no fluid comes out, add and repeat until you get a slow drip, indicating the proper level.

7B. If you need to add fluid, at this point you would use the pump. They make plunger pumps for differentials that are supposed to work well, but I used a simple $3.99 bulb pump just fine.

8. When level is correct, tighten main bolt.

9. Remove OTC No. 6604

10. Replace center plug with torx head socket.

That sounds complicated but it's not bad once you have what you need. The BIG problem is that this IS a sealed trans. Ok for BMWs...not so good on a Fordicon1.png products! SO, if your fluid level begins to become inconsistent be vigilant. Because there is likely an underlying problem causing this.

Temp Gun Note: The temp gun is to make sure your fluid is at 180 degrees. However, Chilton reports that this is about where it would be after driving around the block a couple times. Since I'm not a pro, and don't have one, I did the latter and it worked fine.

HOPE THIS HELPS!!! This was a ****** for me to research, but my Mountaineer runs fine (relatively speaking :) and I know very little about fixing cars. Just researched it till I found the correct fix.

Peace, and good luck!

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well I am mechanically inclined up until the point I have to tear into the transmission. If the solenoid is on the outside then it would not be a problem.

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sorry to hear what happen to you today men :( i dont know how to comment on a status update

Thank you.. it was tough because she was the sweetest thing.

IMG_0538.jpg

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First question is do you have a check engine light on?

If not, my first suggestion is to service the transmission with a filter. If it still happens then I would look more into the transmission. Yes a 4x4 trans will bolt up. The only difference in AWD and 4x4 is in the transfer case.

Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born.

My penis is bigger than your penis

I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle.

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I looked around and the main cause is trans fluid levels. Here's the proccess for your year

I have recently changed and added fluid to my 2003 Mercury Mountaineer with help from a Chilton manual. None of the answers posted so far are quite correct...and since I researched this for months before finding a proper solution I figured I would let everyone know how to do this.

Toolsicon1.png needed: Mercon V trans fluid, torx head socket to remove trans drain/add plug, an adjustable wrench to loosen the main bolt on the drain/add plug, a pump to add fluid back in, and (if possible) a temp gun like a service station would use. Last, but not least, you will need a special nozel that fits in the bottom of the drain hole to add fluid back in with. (I could only find this at OReilly's. It was a special order from 'OTC' <OTC Part No. 6604>

In my opinion this is a terribly designed transmission. To add, remove, or check fluid follow these steps:

1. Heat fluid to 180 degrees F.

2. Raise entire vehicleicon1.png using a level to make sure the vehicle is completely level.

3. With foot on break, shift through all gears, place back in park.

4. Go under transmission pan, and by using torx head socket (and PB blaster or you'll break the socket), Loosen the middle plug on the main trans drain plug. (There is a larger bolt head on the drain plug with a smaller plug inside it)

5. Replace center plug with OTC part No 6604.

6. Loosen, (but not all the way) the main bolt plug.

7. Now, this will tell you your fluid level. (Per Chiltons manual: If fluid pours out your trans is overfilled. If fluid drips out the level is ok. If no fluid comes out, add and repeat until you get a slow drip, indicating the proper level.

7B. If you need to add fluid, at this point you would use the pump. They make plunger pumps for differentials that are supposed to work well, but I used a simple $3.99 bulb pump just fine.

8. When level is correct, tighten main bolt.

9. Remove OTC No. 6604

10. Replace center plug with torx head socket.

That sounds complicated but it's not bad once you have what you need. The BIG problem is that this IS a sealed trans. Ok for BMWs...not so good on a Fordicon1.png products! SO, if your fluid level begins to become inconsistent be vigilant. Because there is likely an underlying problem causing this.

Temp Gun Note: The temp gun is to make sure your fluid is at 180 degrees. However, Chilton reports that this is about where it would be after driving around the block a couple times. Since I'm not a pro, and don't have one, I did the latter and it worked fine.

HOPE THIS HELPS!!! This was a ****** for me to research, but my Mountaineer runs fine (relatively speaking :) and I know very little about fixing cars. Just researched it till I found the correct fix.

Peace, and good luck!

Damn man thanks.. you are Awesome.

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First question is do you have a check engine light on?

If not, my first suggestion is to service the transmission with a filter. If it still happens then I would look more into the transmission. Yes a 4x4 trans will bolt up. The only difference in AWD and 4x4 is in the transfer case.

Yes but because of Alternator. Sometimes the O/D light would flash but after a stop and restart it was gone. It was unpredictable

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