kickass audio Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 i had the same problem with my t1 tweets and they are silk domes. it was alright but it hurt like hell when like you said someone said the "s" or a cymbal was struck. i have all the gains on my amps set the same level but my mids are at -10dbr on my 3sixty and the highs are at -25dbr. I believe my xover is at 3500 or somewhere near there at a 24db slope. They sound great and i have them installed with some AA mayhem tweeters too and it complements the sound perfectly. When i had the tweeters running with the passive xovers it was alright because they absorbed a ton of power before it reached the tweeters but when i went all active oh man did the speakers get louder from it not losing power output. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Sometimes running your tw off the xover on an active setup can do wonders for the system. Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Sometimes running your tw off the xover on an active setup can do wonders for the system. Are you saying, use the passive crossover for the tweeters? I may have to use the xover for the mids too. I would rather have a brick wall at 100hz than have to run at 140hz at 12db. I want to get as much low range (down to about 100hz) as i can in my mids to help with male vocals and there is some information in music between 100- 140 that gets lost. It's those little transient things that give that little extra oomph to music. Like, in some songs the lower hollow sound an acoustic guitar makes that comes from the body of the guitar. Or some really high slap bass has some stuff that plays up there that gets lost using a 12db xover at 140 or 150. I notice that some digital music like dubstep has some stuff in that range mixed with the wizzles and wobbles that if once you know it is there you really notice when it's not. Anyway, TLDR . I will try the passives, and see if i can clean it up some more. Then this spring i can get to work on my doors and get my midbass in. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Try just the tweeter first. leave the mid active. The xover might be just enough to tone down the tweeter to a desirable level. Also work with placement. Sometimes on or off axis makes a huge difference not only in the sound stage, but in reflection peaks and dips in the environment . I had some strong peaks when i went off axis from the reflection off the glass. Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin - STAPUFT Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 This has been a good read. And for the OP, you are right- different things sound "good" to different people. My preference has always been to have lots of treble but I hate the harshness. I can't take what a lot of people consider good sounding tweeters- they are just too harsh for me. What kingsuv is suggesting has worked for me as well. I will try to keep this short, but here is what I have done before and what worked for me and what my progression has been on crossovers (tweeters specifically). Run off of a passive xover from a "full" output- I don't usually like them. Too harsh. Run with a "bass blocker" or -6 db capacitor installed passively at ANY frequency I usually like a bit better- to a point, then they get fatiguing after listening for longer periods of time (not harsh though). Run with an Active crossover ONLY- with a dedicated amp only for the tweeters it sounds quite good, but can tend to become rather dry sounding. I guess that is because of higher roll-off and the crossover used. The tweeters just seem to loose something and that translates into loosing depth of the music for me. So... that leaves using a combination... Right now I have 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound bag to get the tweeters sounding like I like them- Active crossover on the head unit, high pass on the amp, passive crossover on the tweeters, then -6 db capacitor on the tweeter itself. Each of these crossover points are set progressively higher- ex: Head unit @50 hz, Amp @85 hz, Xover @3500 hz, capacitor @6000 (I can't remember exactly). Safer for the tweeter, and an exponentially diminishing roll-off. Passive crossover is still in there to do its work too (like has been said, they aren't just crossovers- they also have resistors and some more than that). All that being said- I like silk domes. I just can't make myself like the sound of other dome tweeters (I have not heard a ribbon tweeter yet). Additionally- on axis / off axis makes a big difference, as well as how the tweeter is mounted. Diffraction is EVIL. If the dome of the tweeter is too close to a hard flat surface then diffraction is caused close to the speaker- sending out all kinds of funkiness. IMO - tweeters need to be mounted so they are away from their surface (think of putting the tweeter inside of a ball) and the enclosure should be wrapped in something soft like felt, speaker cloth, etc... Anyone recognize this one? http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/57269-beryllium-bmw-323ci/page__st__40 Sorry that was so lengthy- I have had lots of coffee. 12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro Build & Comment Log Un-Interrupted Build LogYouTube Channel Chevy Trailblazer 5.1 Dolby Digital DTS Install You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Well, There is a lot of good advice here, Thanks to all that have posted. I will try as much of this as it takes. Right now they aren't exactly pointed at the windshield. They are in the corner of the front window where the side mirror mount is pointing across the car and slightly away from me. Pointing them at me seems to worsen the harshness. They are mounted where the ones in this pic are, and pretty much this angle. (these are my polk tweeters not the fosgates. Which, actually i think may have sounded better lol :/ ) I am going to get the passive's hooked up, and i will get some double sided sticky tape and see how they sound up on the "A" pillars at various angles. And if all else fails i will try to find some silk dome's and go from there. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ds1919 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 yeah I hear ya bro! Sucks to fork out a isht load of cash and then it not work out. Specially in this economy... I know what you mean about the aluminum tweet sound too, I like when the drummer hits the center part of the symbols real hard to get that TANG! TANG! TANG! sound. Cant beat metal tweeters for that. But after a while, if the tweeter isnnt matched up so well with the system or room acoustics, it becomes burdensome to hear them. Silks can give you a more overall satisfactory experience. You might lose some of that hard symbol, but you can find music more appealing in other areas. Try some quality $40-$50 silks first to see if they will work for you. Try ebay to find some used ones. Maybe you can get some polks or something for like $15 or so. That should be good enough for you to determine if thats the road you want to take, without dishing out a lot of money up front....gl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellington Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 lol @ metal domes http://www.parts-express.com/brand/vifa/tweeters/225_17 I tried a $60 pair of kicker tweeters (cheapest ones they had) they were complete crap. TISSSS TISSSS and barely got loud. My stock tweeters were cleaner/louder 2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoove Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 My Alpine 6010ex neodymium tweeters from the early 90's have been the best sounding tweeters I ever ran. 2 Team Fi 15's v1 2 DD M5's 970amps of Alt 6th order blowthroughThe truck Blowthrough build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155555-smooves-1996-chevy-ext-cab-c1500-slow-build/The 350z build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170694-smooves-2003-nissan-350z/ My FB page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Smooves-Car-Audio-and-performance/719746144805343 Team Fi Audio http://www.ficaraudio.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalilac619 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 lol @ metal domes http://www.parts-exp...tweeters/225_17 I tried a $60 pair of kicker tweeters (cheapest ones they had) they were complete crap. TISSSS TISSSS and barely got loud. My stock tweeters were cleaner/louder nothing wrong with metal dome just have to know how to tune them properly 2000 Suburban 6 runs of 2/0 12 timpano audio mids,6 timpana audio tweets and 1 timpano compression horn per door 8 banks of blue Maxwells + 260ah of Yin Long LTOs 2 370 Amp Autotech Alts mids amps 2 Crescendo Skyway 3ks Tweet amp Crossfire 2000.4 sub amp: 4 Crossfire XT 8ks Subs: 8 18 in Crossfires in a 4th order Best Scores at events… 161.6@38hz DBdrag sealed on the dash… 162.54 outlaw…161.14 Meca headrest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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